Night fever ... Quay West Resort and Spa.
On top of the mountain, Robert Upe discovers myriad ways to ski, rest and play.
As the sun dips behind the white-clad mountains the air takes on a renewed chill and the day's last skiers scramble towards the chairlift, keen for one more run down the Falls Creek piste.
Many others are already inside having their first apres-ski drinks. At cosy Feathertop Lodge they're serving oysters with champagne, and at Winterhaven Lodge the gathering skiers and snowboarders are pressing towards the warmth of the open fire. Wines are in hand and the stories of heroics on the slopes are flowing. It's typical of a late afternoon at any serious mountain resort in the world.
But we're lolling around in our bathers with our own apres drinks (home-made gluhwein) and snacks on a private deck where the hot tub sends steam drifting into the cold air. This is at Quay West Resort and Spa, an apartment-style hotel with shops, cafes and bars that also provides a portal to Falls Creek.
The apartments are bright and modern with all the trimmings for a snow holiday such as valet parking ($150, but handy if there's a lot of snow because it includes digging the car out), a fully equipped kitchen, flat-screen TV and - most importantly - a conveniently placed ski hire and easy access to the slopes via the Falls Express Chairlift at the bottom of Wombats Ramble ski run.
The multi-storey Quay West is at the base of the ski area, so you can drive right to the door. Staying there makes you feel like you're right in the action, with people coming and going, outdoor lunchtime barbecues, pop-up bars and sun lounges.
The convenience of all this gathered in one area can't be underestimated.
However, the ultra-chic apartments do lack the cosiness that comes in an intimate lodge with open fire. If you want that style there are many choices throughout this pretty snowbound village: try Winterhaven, Astra and Trackers lodges for starters.
Quay West has a September spring skiing special from $871 an adult and $813 a child (aged 3-14 years) that includes three nights' accommodation in a penthouse apartment with hot tub, daily breakfast, three-day ski pass, three two-hour group lessons, three-day ski hire and three-day Junior Workshop or three-day day Snowclub for Kids with lunch. Package available September 9 to October 2. Phone Falls Creek reservations, 1800 453 525.
7.30am
The best skiing conditions in the Victorian mountains during September are usually found early morning when the snow is firm and groomed to corduroy perfection. Later in the day, the sun often transforms spring snow into heavy mush and the turns that were so easy in the morning become hard work as the quadriceps start to burn. So what better way to start a spring day than with a Fresh Tracks program? Falls Creek runs First Tracks every Thursday (conditions permitting) in Sun Valley, with just 20 people. It costs $26 with a valid lift ticket for one hour before the slopes open to all comers.
First Tracks, phone 5758 1000 or book a day before at ticket office.
9am
Falls Creek has 92 runs and access to 65 kilometres of cross-country trails. For fast early runs go to the Summit before it's cut up; for a little adventure on a black diamond try Wishing Well; and for beginners there's the 2.2-kilometre Wombats Ramble which is like a meandering road. There's plenty more - including terrain parks - to explore over 450 hectares, and that's not counting the really tough stuff at Mount McKay.
11.30am
Stop for early lunch at the Produce Store at Huski where the menu changes throughout the season because they use local produce. The simple menu may include a warming vegetable soup, baguettes and tapas later in the day.
Huski, ski in and ski out on Sitzmark Street. See huski.com.au.
12.30pm
If you want to access the backcountry steeps on Mount McKay or the intermediate powder stashes at Rocky Knolls, former ski racer Steven Lee runs snowmobile tours out there. Lee uses his local knowledge to find the best runs for the day.
Steve Lee backcountry tours, $149 a person with valid lift pass. Sessions 8.45am to 11.45pm and 12.30pm to 3.30pm. See skifalls.com.au/backcountrytours.
4pm
Apres drinks beckon already and there's no shortage of interesting places to go. The Falls Creek Hotel has a "Happy Harvey Hour" every Tuesday and Thursday afternoon and Silver Ski's Japanese inspired Oishii-Go serves sake and Japanese beers daily. There's a lot more, too, and half the fun is taking a stroll along the village's snowy and car-less avenues and finding places you don't know even exist and dropping in for a hot chocolate or tapas plate.
See fallscreekhotel.com.au, silverskilodge.com.au.
6pm
On Wednesdays and Saturdays Wombats Ramble beginners' run opens for night skiing. By the time the night-owls come out and the floodlights are turned on the slope has been freshly groomed for the three-hour session. Lots of kids and families seem to be overdosing on fun.
Night skiing, 6-9pm Wednesday and Saturdays, adults $20, children $10. Passes available from Falls Creek Sports at Quay West.
8pm
There's only one night show left this year (on September 8) and it shouldn't be missed. It includes skiers, snowboarders, snowmobiles and snow machines strutting their stuff, capped off with fireworks.
Night show, 8pm, free, at the Village Bowl. See skifalls.com.au/thenightshow for a preview.
9pm
Summit Ridge run by Simon and Wendy Rawlings is possibly the most talked about and admired restaurant on the mountain with a long list of regional and magazine awards for its good food and wine. Fennel and prawn soup, organic Milawa duck and winter spice brulee are on the current menu. The open-fire ambience adds to the experience.
Summit Ridge, 8 Schuss Street, restaurant bookings phone 5758 3800. See summitridge.com.au.
10.30pm
The Man is the place for late nights and provides live entertainment four nights a week.
See themanfallscreek.com.
Robert Upe visited courtesy of Falls Creek.
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