No one could accuse Warsaw of having a dull history. As the capital of Poland since the 16th century, it has borne the brunt of many invasions. At the end of World War II it lay in ruins, devastated by Nazi demolition and the Soviet battle for its liberation.
The Poles rebuilt their capital, symbolic of their stubborn determination to survive as a nation. The result is an intriguing blend, a core of beautifully restored classical buildings against the backdrop of overwhelming concrete structures from the communist years. As the nation's business hub, Warsaw has a wide array of dining and entertainment options, from medieval cellar restaurants to cutting-edge nightclubs.
9am
Polish restaurants rarely open for breakfast, which is a great reason to visit a bar mleczny (milk bar). These humble eateries are a remnant of the communist era, when the socialist authorities underwrote a network of low-cost cafeterias to feed the working man who couldn't make it home for lunch. Step into Bar Pod Barbakanem, in a fantastic spot next to the Old Town's remaining fortified walls, order from the absurdly cheap menu of simple Polish dishes, then share a tiled table with a fellow diner and reflect on life during the Cold War. Bar Pod Barbakanem, ul Mostowa 27/29; phone +48 22 831 4737.
10am
Step through the gate of the nearby Barbican into Warsaw's Old Town and stroll to its beautiful market square. The apparently centuries-old square is impressive, until you realise that it was completely reconstructed from rubble after the war, which upgrades the place to inspirational. Grab a coffee at one of the cafes here or wander the attractive narrow side streets; if you're looking for communist-era collectables, Lapidarium has a good selection of authentic gear. Lapidarium, ul Nowomiejska 15/17; phone +48 22 635 6828; see lapidarium.pl.
11am
Walk from the Old Town's Royal Castle south along the Royal Way, the route traditionally taken by Polish kings. This impressive boulevard is lined by significant churches, palaces and museums. The famous Polish composer, Frederic Chopin, is commemorated in the Chopin Museum, just off the Royal Way. Chopin Museum, ul Okolnik 1.
1pm
Further south, in Warsaw's central business district, is ulica Nowy Swiat (literally "New World Street"), a vibrant shopping strip. At the southern end of the street, step into Sense. This super-cool cafe-bar symbolises 21st-century Warsaw, combining Polish traditions with international food and intriguing architecture. Have lunch and order a glass or two of its home-made ginger rose-infused vodka - it's sensational. Sense, ul Nowy Swiat 19; phone +48 22 826 6570; see www.sensecafe.com.
2pm
Head further south to Lazienki Park. This serene green space was laid out in the 17th century, when it took its name ("lazienki" meaning "baths") from a bathing pavilion. It was later the residence of the last king of Poland, Stanislaw August Poniatowski, who had the beautiful Palace on the Water constructed here. Lazienki Park, ul Agrykola 1; phone +48 22 506 0101.
4pm
Nothing could be less soothing than the Warsaw Rising Museum but this exceptional institution is essential to understanding the city's troubled past. Opened in 2004, on the 60th anniversary of the wartime Warsaw Rising by the populace against their Nazi oppressors, it presents an excellent set of exhibits outlining the dramatic history of the doomed two-month revolt. Warsaw Rising Museum, ul Grzybowska 79; phone +48225397905; see 1944.pl.
6pm
To extend your understanding of the city's postwar years, head to the towering Palace of Culture&Science west of ulica Nowy Swiat. This vast complex was a gift from Stalin to the city in the 1950s. It houses cinemas, theatres, museums, shops and a large conference hall. Walk around its base and spot the numerous statues of workers striving for socialism. Palace of Culture & Science, Plac Defilad; pkin.pl.
8pm
After all that history, you could probably do with a chuckle. Something that Poles do well is the themed restaurant. Across the nation you'll find blond, blue-eyed Polish waiters dressed up in Scottish kilts, Japanese robes and Chinese cheongsams, as the theme demands. Have dinner at the London Steak House, a restaurant containing every cliche about England that the owners could cram into its decor. Place your order for fish and chips with a waitress wearing a Union Jack scarf and miniskirt. London Steak House, Al Jerozolimskie 42; phone +48 22 827 0020; see londonsteakhouse.pl.
10pm
For nightlife you are spoilt for choice. Head to a nightclub in the central business district or, for more highbrow entertainment, take in an opera at the spectacular Teatr Wielki at Plac Teatralny 1. A happy medium, however, would be supper and music at jazz club Tygmont. The Poles fell heavily for jazz in the heady years after World War I, when the nation had just regained its independence for the first time since the 18th century, and they still have a soft spot for it now. Tygmont, ul Mazowiecka 6/8; phone +48 22 828 3409; see www.tygmont.com.pl.
KLM, Air France and Swiss Airlines have fares for $1350, flying a partner airline to Asia and to Warsaw via their European hubs. (Fares are low-season return from Melbourne and Sydney, excluding tax.)
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