An expat's guide to Vienna

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This was published 4 years ago

An expat's guide to Vienna

By Belinda Jackson
Warwick Stengards

Warwick Stengards

THE EXPAT

WARWICK STENGARDS

When in Europe, Melburnian Warwick Stengards uses his old childhood nickname Rick, "because it's easier than having to listen to 'VarVick"'. Currently conducting at the Vienna State Opera, Stengards first went to Vienna 20 years ago to audition for the Schoenbrunner Schlossorchester. He never moved back home.

 Figlmueller, in the heart of the city, serves an excellent wiener schnitzel.

Figlmueller, in the heart of the city, serves an excellent wiener schnitzel.Credit: Alamy

SEE

A classical concert in Vienna is a must. It is the mecca for art and music and one is spoilt for choice. For classical concerts, the Musikverein, Konzerthaus and Schoenbrunn Palace are the premier venues and earlier in the week are the quieter times. If you prefer opera, you have the Staatsoper, Volksoper, Theater-an-der-Wien and many other smaller venues. My favourite acoustic is the Mozartsaal – the second largest hall at the Konzerthaus. The wonderful contemporary orchestra Klangforum Wien often perform there. See konzerthaus.at

DO

I love going to contemporary dance shows and exhibitions at the Museumsquartier, an arts complex just beyond the main museums, see mqw.at Most of Vienna's architectural attractions are in the first district and can be reached by foot. The Hofburg, Heldenplatz, Burgtheater, Parliament, Town Hall and key museums are on the "Ring" which encircles the inner city. Inexpensive trams run in both directions if you get tired of walking.

EAT

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You can't come to Vienna without eating a wiener schnitzel. You will have to look hard to find a bad one, but the best I've had is at Figlmueller in the heart of the city. Don't be put off by the queue and the other tourists – just catch the eye of one of the waiters and they will get you seated within 10 minutes. A glass of Austria's gruener veltliner wine and the traditional potato salad complete the heavenly meal, figlmueller.at

DRINK

Nothing beats a good Zwickl beer – think "cloudy-but-fine" – with great flavour. You will find it in most Austrian beisls (bars). It goes down well with a kasekrainer (beef sausage with cheese inside) or langos (pronounced lungosh), which is a cross between a giant potato-cake and pizza. My favourite is Salm Braeu, a micro-brewery near Belvedere on Rennweg, salmbraeu.com

AVOID

Avoid saying danke (thanks) when someone offers you something you would actually like – it automatically means Nein, danke (No, thanks).

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