Anantara Peace Haven Tangalle Resort, Sri Lanka.
THE PLACE
Anantara Peace Haven Tangalle Resort Sri Lanka.
THE LOCATION
A big leap in the right direction of luxury resort accommodation in Sri Lanka.
On the coast close to the southern end of the Sri Lankan teardrop, the resort sits at the back of a crescent of powder-fine sand enclosed by granite arms at either end. To the east, beaches scallop the coastline all the way to the backpacker hangout of Tangalle, a couple of kilometres away. The countryside is steroidally-enhanced chlorophyll. Everything is veiled in greenery. The word "lush" doesn't even come close. This is the only resort hotel of this calibre on this part of the coast. Since most travellers are on a clockwise journey through the country, the Anantara, at 6 o'clock on the Sri Lankan clockface, makes a perfect choice to relax and recover after a trip through the ancient cities, the tea country and the game parks of the interior.
THE SPACE
Taking its design cues from the traditional Sri Lankan plantation house, the resort forms a semi-circle facing the sea. At the upper end is the reception area and in front, poised on a headland, the resort's Italian fine-diner, Il Mare. Guest rooms are located in three-storey complexes to one side, with lawn and the palms of the former coconut plantation separating them from the beach. Set into the lawn is a vast pool and on the back side of the accommodation, a spa that plays all the right soothing notes. Peacocks wander insouciantly around the grounds and screech as if they own it. At 150 rooms, the resort is big enough to have a good array of facilities but not overwhelming.
THE ROOM
Guest rooms are spacious as are the well-equipped bathrooms, hanging space is fine for two but there are no surprises in the L-shaped layout, nor the plain-Jane furnishings. Wi-Fi is free and muscular enough for video streaming. Rooms are all seaward facing, those on the upper floors get a big balcony, a patio for those on ground level. Go for a room in the 400 complex, top floor.
THE FOOD
Breakfast buffet is one of the best ever. Catering to all tastes, vegan to Japanese aesthete to grain-fed Milwaukee farmboy, it's a princely array of freshness and goodness with touch of sin. Standout is the egg hoppers, a Sri Lankan specialty, a paper thin, conical pancake with an egg at the bottom. Try it with local condiments. Il Mare, the resort's breezy Italian restaurant, glows fetchingly by night and the menu makes a power play with the local seafood but the chef isn't trying too hard. Specialty is Dinner by Design, the diner a deux, served in one of the wafty, curtained pavilions set among coconut palms with the waves just metres away, a romance enhancer.
STEPPING OUT
For most guests this is the start of the beach chapter of their Sri Lankan experience, and the beaches here are some of Asia's best. Chances are anyone arriving here has already seen the elephants, monkeys, birds and reptiles that are the staples of the country's national parks and the wonders of the ruined Buddhist cities, and there is little in the surrounds to compete. Have a wander along the beaches but there's no reason to stray far. The Anantara is tailored for relaxation so rest up and prepare yourself for splendid little Galle just to the west and the fishing villages and beach resorts along the east coast.
THE VERDICT
Sri Lanka has lagged well behind in luxury resort accommodation but the Anantara is a big leap in the right direction. The position is charming, accommodation is plush, staff are smiling and natural and a nip and tuck in the catering department would nudge it towards the five-star league.
ESSENTIALS
Goyambokka Estate, Tangalle 82200, Sri Lanka. Doubles from $315. tangalle.anantara.com
HIGHLIGHT
Seafood shopping in the morning when the fisherman lands his boat on the beach.
LOWLIGHT
Spa treatments are pricey, and what's with the music-free treatment rooms?
Michael Gebicki was a guest of Anantara Hotels.
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