Ayutthaya

In search of lost cities

Ute Junker unleashes her inner Indiana Jones at some of the world's most intriguing ancient sites.

Slowly to old Siam

Leisa Tyler boards a restored rice barge for a leisurely cruise from the heart of Bangkok to a lost imperial city.

Charge of the elephants

In the ancient capital, Julie Miller meets a conservationist who champions the pachyderm's ferocious warrior past.

Undiscovered Thailand

Thailand's top unspoilt resorts, which are endowed with charm and some ATMs, minus hordes of Aussies and touts.

• by David Wilson