Beach-hopping on a budget

Now that independent travel in the Maldives is possible, J.J. Robinson plans a DIY itinerary.

Much of the Maldives as experienced by Maldivians lies undiscovered by travellers. But the country has so much more to offer than luxury resorts: the world's best beaches, spectacular reefs, ancient ruins (Islamic and otherwise) and the candy-coloured capital, Male, best viewed from a rooftop (or the Holiday Inn pool) as the adhan echoes from the city's minarets.

Male is a densely concreted warren where all the world's problems - political, social, religious and environmental - are played out in microcosm. But beyond the capital lie 200 inhabited islands where people have been scratching a living in much the same way for thousands of years.

If Male's maze of alleys and careening mopeds seems insular and impenetrable - you're unlikely to run into the burgeoning death-metal scene, for instance - the inhabited islands are the opposite. Islanders are famous for their hospitality and friendliness and the novelty of foreign visitors ensures a warm welcome. Small guesthouses are springing up all over the country and a room and local fare can usually be arranged - simply ask at the island office. But don't expect to sunbathe without sparking a scandal that will be talked about for years to come.

Getting around on a budget in a country designed for yacht charter remains a challenge. The timetable for the government's new ferry service - currently being rolled out across the country - remains arcane, while private inter-atoll ferries are mostly unscheduled, unregulated and rely on you asking the captain where he feels like going that particular day. The locals do it and there's nothing stopping you, either. For a leisurely island-hop down to the former British airbase on the southern island of Gan, simply walk along the jetty in front of Male's vegetable market and ask anyone loitering on the pier about the ferry to Addu Atoll/Gan.

Once the incredulity wears off, someone will ring the captain for you and let you know the time and cost - usually about $40. Scams are unheard of and your intrepidity will be rewarded with a two-day ferry trip through spectacular tropical scenery, stopping at three inhabited islands for a rare taste of the real Maldives.

Another option is to make a friend or ''coffee contact'' in Male before you arrive through the growing community of couch-surfers (couch surfing.org), an emerging domestic travel agency such as Elysian Maldives (elysianmaldives.com), a blogger or simply on Facebook, to which all Maldivians over the age of eight seem to subscribe. This also gives you a lifeline if you need rescuing from a confused immigration official unconvinced by your lack of resort itinerary - it has only recently become legal for foreigners to roam the country without a permission slip.

Give yourself a day in Male and make a point of talking to people. English is widely spoken but you'll have to initiate conversation. Meeting up for coffee (lavazza) is very informal, always welcomed and usually followed by leisurely chewing of the popular national stimulant, areca nut. You can also take a day trip to the island of Villingili for superb snorkelling.

An independent holiday in the Maldives needn't be liquor-free. Catch a free transfer from Male to the only watering hole in town, the soulless airport hotel bar, and commiserate with the expats during Thursday evening's weekly session. Or partake in the nearby Sheraton Full Moon's infamous weekly beach party, (departures at 6.30pm and 8pm, jetty seven).