Where to eat in London: Belgravia's The Goring opens new seafood restaurant Siren

Say "fish" and "Cornwall" and most Australians will think Rick Stein and Padstow, but there's another British chef winning accolades for his seafood cooking just down the road in Port Isaac. He may have worked with Stein previously, but Nathan Outlaw's eponymous restaurant holds the number one position in the Waitrose Good Food Guide 2019, as well as two Michelin stars.

Now Outlaw has joined forces with that most quintessentially English of hotels, Belgravia's The Goring, to open seafood restaurant Siren, a crab scone's throw from Buckingham Palace. With a focus on sustainable fish brought in daily from his suppliers in Cornwall, Outlaw is offering a more relaxed experience than The Dining Room, The Goring's flagship, one-Michelin-star restaurant. Nonetheless, don't expect your Dover sole with cockles, clams and clotted-cream sauce to come cheap – this is the hotel that caters to royalty and the British establishment, after all.

A fun (and somewhat eccentric) approach by flamboyant designer Russell Sage – there are lobster-pot chandeliers with glass crustaceans and the male staff wear brooches resembling squid – adds a touch of whimsy, along with a handcrafted plasterwork wall depicting mythical sea creatures and marine life. The Goring's secluded garden (a blessed respite from all those tourist buses clogging SW1) is brought inside via floral upholstery and rugs, while the Royal Horticultural Society's Jekka McVicar has planted more than 100 herbs that will be used throughout the food and drinks menus.

Insider tip: if you want to experience the hotel's renowned style and service (The Goring was awarded a Royal Warrant for hospitality services in 2013), without the hefty bill, pop into the Goring Bar for fish cakes (£15) with tartare sauce and a glass of Queen Victoria's Fizz (a champagne cocktail fortified with vodka, £20). See thegoring.com

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