By Tracey Spicer
Family fun in the snow at Cardrona. Credit: Cardrona Alpine Resort
It looks like a giant Bombe Alaska.
An hour from Queenstown, Cardrona is New Zealand's best family ski resort. Host of the Winter Games, this "melting marshmallow mountain", in the words of Taj and Grace, provides a soft landing for kids. Exiting elegantly (OK, in an Eton's Mess of tangled limbs) at the top of the main chairlift, we gasp at the glorious view.
From here, choose between two wide, gentle green runs, or the Lil' Bucks terrain park. Our 10-year-old tears towards a jump, before skidding to the side, later admitting his "balls are like jelly". Secretly, I'm relieved: no one wants to see their child choppered out on a stretcher.
Instead, we follow the four-kilometre blue run to the bottom.
It's one of those magical moments, as we weave in and out of each other's paths, managing to remain upright.
These are my top three tips:
It's one of those magical moments, as we weave in and out of each other's paths, managing to remain upright.
Tracey Spicer
1 Head straight to the top for a rock star car park. Even though we arrive at 11am, there are half-hidden parking spots close to the entrance.
2 Load money on to your ski passes electronically, then swipe at the registers to buy lunch. Alternatively, bring snacks in a backpack, which you can store in the lockers.
3 Use the childcare, if only for a few hours, to tackle the tougher runs. It's fun skiing with kids, but days of "My fingers are frozen!" can become wearing.
Coronet Peak, just 20 minutes from Queenstown, is a terrific option for younger kids, who may tire easily after the long drive to Cardrona. There are fewer runs, but plenty of beginner areas.
The tips for Coronet Peak are:
1 Grab hand and toe warmers in Queenstown, as the on-mountain stores can run out. These are known as "whinge-stoppers", for obvious reasons.
2 Be careful of ice in the afternoon. Our morning is marvellous, guided by the wonderful Wendy from NZSki, but I end up face-down in a "chocolate starfish", to quote the kids, after catching an edge.
3 Buy a five-day pass for Coronet Peak and The Remarkables. If the weather's no good, exchange the day pass for big discounts off the attractions in town. A 40-minute drive from Queenstown, The Remarkables are a winter wonderland, once you survive the drive.
This resort boasts a new dining pavilion, with plentiful pots of green chicken curry and chilli beef.
Our advice is:
1 Give a tip to the folks who stand in the freezing cold, fitting chains to the vehicles of hapless tourists. If you hire a four-wheel-drive, you're less likely to need chains.
2 Commit the kids to a vow of silence before the vertiginous climb. It's safer than it used to be, but I still close my eyes (fortunately, I'm not the one driving...).
3 Keep your passes, to check online how many kilometres you've skiied. It's a great incentive for the kids to improve their stamina.
We're blessed with the best conditions in recent memory, with heavy dumps of snow and brilliant blue skies. However, our trip coincides with both the New Zealand and Australian school holidays, so lift queues are long.
Keep an eye out for discount deals for the spring school holidays.
Skiing at Cardrona inspires us to toast marshmallows over an open fire in the sumptuous lounge of the Heritage Queenstown.
Overlooking the mirrored waters of Lake Wakatipu, the fabulous family rooms feature kitchenettes, washer/dryers, and comfy king-sized beds.
For kids, big and small, dessert really is the best part of the meal.
The writer and her family travelled with the assistance of Heritage Hotels, Air New Zealand, NZSki.com and Real Journeys (Cardrona).
Sign up for the Traveller Deals newsletter
Get exclusive travel deals delivered straight to your inbox. Sign up now.