This was published 9 years ago
Cavallo Point, California, review: History meets luxury
A former army post, this luxury lodge commands respect for its style, views and attention to detail, writes Andrew Taylor.
San Francisco view from Cavallo Point.Credit: Kodiak Greenwood
THE LOCATION
Tucked into a sheltered bay on the Marin Headlands, with awe-inspiring views of the fog-shrouded Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco Bay and the city, it is hard to imagine a more scenic spot for a luxury lodge.
But Cavallo Point's location at Fort Baker was not chosen for its good looks.
Cavallo Point - the lodge at the Golden Gate. Credit: Kodiak Greenwood
Uncle Sam established the Fort Baker army post around Horseshoe Cove from 1866 to guard the Golden Gate Strait.
A fog signal station was built in 1883 to guide ships through the treacherous channel, while the barracks, officers' quarters and a 12-bed hospital were built around the four-hectare parade ground between 1901 and 1915.
In World War II, Fort Baker became a marine repair shop and mine depot as the army laid underwater mines to protect the harbour and it was later used as a training ground during the Cold War before becoming part of the Golden Gate National Park.
Cocktails, such as the whiskey-based Falling Slowly, are as good for the soul as any date with a shaman.
A free shuttle operates between the lodge and San Francisco and Sausalito, but a car is a must to explore Marin County, including the stunning redwood forests of Muir Woods, Mount Tamalpais.
THE SPACE
Cavallo Point guests can choose between historic and contemporary lodgings. The former officers' residences have been converted into two-bedroom suites with separate sitting area and views of the surrounding hills and San Francisco skyline.
Cavallo Point's historic buildings.Credit: Kodiak Greenwood
Further up the eucalypt and pine-clad hillside, contemporary hotel rooms and suites have spectacular views of the Golden Gate Bridge and feature gas fireplaces and radiant heat flooring, floor-to-ceiling windows and some have a patio or deck.
The free snacks, live music and afternoon drinks add to Cavallo Point's convivial atmosphere, while more than 800 works of art and photography decorate the lodge's guest rooms and public areas.
The peace may be shattered by the sound of fog horns guiding ships through the strait but ear plugs are provided in each room.
COMFORT
Late risers will appreciate the midday checkout although the 4pm checkin seems inconvenient. The concierge deserves praise for patiently explaining the workings of our suite such as controlling room temperature.
The contemporary king suite is smartly furnished with a king-sized bed, sitting area with window seat, two-sided gas fireplace, expansive floor-to-ceiling windows and a spacious deck or patio.
But the real hero is the view of the bay, Golden Gate Bridge and possibly fellow guests in a state of undress if they forget to draw their curtains.
Power points are where you want them, and Wi-Fi is provided without extra charge or password to remember.
THE HIGHLIGHTS
There are guided walking tours of the historic buildings of Fort Baker and Marin Headlands as well as plenty of tracks to wander along the bay, into the hills or even across the Golden Gate Bridge.
Cavallo Point is family and dog friendly, with plenty of space for kids to run wild.
An army marches on its stomach so it's no surprise the Cavallo Point Cooking School is rated No 1 by the Gayot website. The school, headed by director Jayne Reichert and chef Linda Tay Esposito, specialises in Pacific Rim cuisines, cooking with local produce and signature San Francisco dishes.
Guests can take daily yoga classes in the Mission Blue Chapel or visit the Healing Arts Centre & Spa, which offers massages, facials and, because it is California, Shamanic Journeys.
Alternatively, you can visit the lodge's excellent Farley Bar, named after a popular comic strip in the San Francisco Chronicle. Cocktails, such as the whiskey-based Falling Slowly are as good for the soul as any date with a shaman.
FOOD
Led by executive chef Justin Everett, Cavallo Point's Murray Circle restaurant dishes up fine northern Californian cuisine.
The menus are concise, curated affairs strong on local produce, particularly seafood. The chef's tasting menu with matching wines is a satisfying culinary tour featuring oysters, clam ceviche and venison before the Fat Lady is rolled out to sing with the praline and grape opera dessert.
The dessert menu's delectable offerings include sweet potato verrine and lemon and lemon thyme brulee. The artisanal cheeses are worth asking for just so you can say their fabulous names - Bleating Heart Creamery's Fat Bottom Girl, inspired by the Queen song, and Bohemian Creamery's Bo Peep.
Wait staff are warm and skilled at their tasks, the atmosphere genial and relaxed.
THE VERDICT
This former military outpost provides outstanding comfort and service. The property maintains high standards of luxury yet retains an air of Californian cool.
HOW TO GET THERE
San Francisco International Airport is a 45-minute car journey away. The Amtrak station in San Francisco is about 20 minutes drive from the lodge. Cavallo Point is a 10-minute drive over the Golden Gate Bridge from San Francisco.
ESSENTIALS
Cavallo Point 601 Murray Circle Fort Baker Sausalito California US
Contemporary guest rooms start at $US419 ($538) a night, plus fees, depending on room type, availability and time of year.
See cavallopoint.com
The writer was a guest of Cavallo Point and Visit California.
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