Princess Cruises' Majestic Princess: What it's really like on board a massive cruise ship, a 'floating pleasure palace'

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Princess Cruises' Majestic Princess: What it's really like on board a massive cruise ship, a 'floating pleasure palace'

By Lee Tulloch
Relax on deck or join in the many activities on offer.

Relax on deck or join in the many activities on offer.

The stately mega-liner Majestic Princess weighs 143,000 tonnes, carries 3560 passengers and makes quite a splash in the ocean with her 19 decks and sassy, storeys-high logo of a princess with streaming blue hair. It's likely it could be seen from space.

But from space it might not be so easy to spot what's most striking about a voyage on the newest and most glamorous of Princess Cruises' ships – the rollicking good time her passengers are having.

I joined the Majestic Princess on part of her maiden Silk Road Sea Route journey between Taipei, Taiwan, and Yokohama, Japan. The ship will be based in Sydney for 2018-2019.

Gong Cha bubble teas.

Gong Cha bubble teas.

It was my first voyage on a cruise ship carrying more than 3000 passengers. I like the intimacy and tranquillity of life on board small ships and wondered how happy I'd be sailing in a small city that has 38 food and beverage outlets, a shopping arcade and its own TV studio. One thing I discovered: life on a big ship is all about participation.

Surprisingly, it is possible to find tranquillity with so many passengers. Most cabins on the Majestic Princess have balconies and outdoor furniture and wonderful views of the undulating ocean. It's very meditative, unless you hit a big swell. (Never fear, ''This is the most stable ship I've been on,'' the First Captain tells us.) For relaxation, there's the serene Lotus Spa and The Enclave, a soothing retreat with thermal suites, a bubbling Jacuzzi and rainforest showers. There are plenty of decks and lounges that are underpopulated at most times of the day. It's possible to be alone.

But it's much more fun to join in. And that's something most of the passengers were doing with gusto. Zoom in on any deck at any time of day and there are passengers engaged in old-time shipboard favourites like table tennis, music trivia and yoga, or more modern pursuits, such as practising dance routines for random "flash mob" events, singing their hearts out in one of six karaoke suites and auditioning for Majestic Idol in the ship's fully-equipped $US8 million TV studio. Live music and street performers amp up the fun vibe.

Bartender making a fresh fruit smoothie.

Bartender making a fresh fruit smoothie.Credit: null

The choice of activities is exhausting. I'd ease into my mornings with a smoothie at the fresh juice bar overlooking the ship's central Piazza atrium but many of my fellow passengers had been at it since dawn, jogging around the decks, pounding the walking machines in the vast, beautifully-equipped Fitness Centre (or racing each other on VR-enhanced stationary bicycles), or doing laps in the pool.

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A contingent of passengers were rusted onto the lounges by the Lido Deck outdoor pool, getting there early to nab their places and lie around all day in the blazing sun while watching noisy rock videos and movies like Jurassic World on the outdoor cinema screen. Those wanting a more peaceful swim headed for the adults-only Hollywood Conservatory with its indoor pool and chic cabanas. By my estimate, though, more passengers were physically active than supine.

"Come back new" is Princess's motto and the program of activities is designed so guests can learn a new skill or try a new experience during their journey, whether it's tasting a flight of new wines in the Vine's wine bar, hearing about Eastern philosophies in one of the enrichment lectures or learning how to aim a gun on the laser shooting range. Passengers of all ages are out in force, lapping up every minute of it. Between 8am and 10am, on any given morning, passengers had a choice of several organised activities, such as a Latin dance workout, the morning trivia challenge, Bible study, bullseye fixed target practice, a ''knitters and natters'' get-together, a destination presentation, a fruit and vegetable carving demonstration, or an art seminar. At the other end of the day, there might be a production in the Princess Theatre, currently the dazzling Fantastic Journey, a technically-extravagant, lavishly-costumed piece of theatre with several heart-stopping moments, including one thrilling number where 20 drones fly perilously around a singer's head. Evenings usually include a movie under the stars, big band ballroom dancing in the Gaming Lounge, cocktails in the Crown Grill, Karaoke Power Hour, the WaterColour Fantasy light and fountain show by the pool, and a DJ in the Hollywood Pool Club, where guests can also express themselves on electric xylophones and drum equipment.

Hollywood Pool Club at night.

Hollywood Pool Club at night.

There's a glitzy casino for those inclined towards a flutter. And winners can spend it all in the high-end shopping arcade that features duty-free Gucci, Ferragamo, Coach, Prada and Swarovski and more handsome watches than you're likely to find on the floor of the New York Stock Exchange. There's also an art gallery and ''rapid fire'' art auctions where passengers are encouraged to bid for surprisingly high-priced works.

Kids? No problem – they're happily occupied in Camp Discovery (for 3-7 years), or two clubhouse-style teens sections, for 9-13 years and 13-17 years. Dining is almost a sport in itself, even if there's barely time for meals. The food and beverage outlets range from an eat anytime option, the World Fresh Marketplace, which offers a meandering buffet of tantalising global flavours, to two restaurants overseen by Michelin-starred chefs: Harmony, created in partnership with chef Richard Chen, formerly of Wynn Las Vegas' Wing Lei, the first Chinese restaurant in North America awarded a Michelin star (cover charge $29 a person) and Le Mer, French home-style dining with a twist from Emmanuel Renaut, whose eponymous restaurant in the French Alps has three stars. (Cover charge $35.)

By the main pool, there's a grilled lobster bar that also serves fresh dim sum. The excellent Crown Grill & Bar, an American steakhouse, serves a classic breakfast on sea days for guests occupying the 36 suites and 374 mini suites. In the evenings (cover $29) the dining switches up to steaks and seafood and some radical desserts, including reinvention of childhood favourites such as S'mores and peanut butter chocolate bars. Alfredo's serves hearty wood-fired pizzas and authentic pasta dishes. The baked agnolotti was wicked. My personal favourite among the beverage outlets was the kooky Gong Cha bubble tea bar from Taiwan where I could order a confection of tapioca, milk foam and banana pudding as a sinful treat between meals. Helpfully, there was such a long walk from the food outlets to my forward suite that I could work some of this off. When passengers fall tired, sated and happy into bed at night they are lulled to sleep on the plush Princess Luxury Bed. There's a sleep program designed by sleep expert Dr Michael Breus which includes, on request, the fabulous-sounding DreamPad pillow that uses patented technology to deliver good sleep through music and gentle vibration. My conclusion: This is not merely a ship, it's a floating pleasure palace.

TRIP NOTES

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traveller.com.au/cruises

princess.com

CRUISE

During its inaugural Australian season in 2018-2019, Majestic Princess will sail on 16 cruises to destinations including Fiji, New Zealand and Tasmania as well as two Asia voyages between Shanghai and Sydney, and Sydney and Hong Kong. Fares start from $1499 a person twin share for a balcony room on a six-night round-trip cruise. Phone 132488. See princess.com

Lee Tulloch travelled as a guest of Princess Cruises

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