River cruise review: Through Bordeaux on Uniworld's Bon Voyage

The prow of Bon Voyage is decorated with painted vines hung with bursting grapes, rather fittingly for a ship that will take us through the world's most illustrious wine region. The vines swirl in a rather rococo fashion, suggesting that luxury and abundance – and perhaps a hint of bucolic decadence – hides behind the ship's trim white exterior.

The grapes make me think of paintings by Watteau. I hurry on board expecting charm, a touch of drama, some aristocratic frippery and decorative whimsy. Bon Voyage delivers, of course. This is a Uniworld ship, and Uniworld ships are never shy when it comes to décor. All the Uniworld signature elements are here: velvety padded walls, fabulously erupting potted orchids, original artworks, seating as studded with buttons and tassels as a Victorian crinoline.

The lobby is tighter than on some Uniworld ships, but still makes a statement. Its floor is an ice-rink of gleaming tiles, its walls clad in polished wood and brass. A sinuous, contemporary chandelier dangles overhead like a glass octopus. Wrought-iron balustrades on staircases add a French touch, cabinets and vases provide a nod to the Chinoiserie once popular in palaces. Here is a ship that wants to make a statement, where staying on it isn't just a travel convenience but an experience in itself.

Bon Voyage is filled with pops of colour, antique-like furnishings and casually scattered books that make you feel as if you're staying in a chic Parisian apartment in the sixth arrondissement. Main lounge-bar Le Salon Champagne is apparently inspired by Yves Saint Laurent's Villa Majorelle. The décor is a relaxing, stripy green, the armchairs plump as marshmallows. Potted palms and giant vases suggest an exotic Georgian-era conservatory. You expect parrots to come flying out of the greenery.

Corridors are marvellous, with impressionist-style oil paintings in gilt frames hung against velvety sea-green walls. I'm in a Grand Suite (number 315) in the middle of the top deck. Only topmost cabins have French balconies, which barely allow you to step out, but let you slide open French doors for breezes and full-on river views. My suite too is exactly what I expect of Uniworld: fabulous finishes, a feeling of opulence, fine fabrics, curious modernist artworks and superb butler service. The en-suite bathroom is encased in purplish marble and colossal by river-cruise standards, with a full-size bath, double sinks and a rain shower.

Bon Voyage sailed on its maiden voyage in mid-April, part of a Uniworld fleet-wide transformation that started with Joie de Vivre on the Seine River in 2017 and Beatrice on the Danube and Main in 2018. This Bordeaux-based ship started life as River Royale, but an extensive eight-month transformation has seen it upgraded to the company's latest Super Ship standard. Passenger numbers have been reduced to 124. Cabins have been entirely redecorated and four new suites added. Fitness and spa facilities have been reconfigured, and two new restaurants created. You wouldn't know the ship wasn't brand new.

The open top deck is all reimagined too. It has pretty blue-and-white banquette seating and lounges emblazoned with a rather un-French creature that looks like a Persian leopard. A new swimming pool is elegantly tiled and manages an infinity effect but, like all river-cruise pools, is really a plunge pool – good for cooling off in summer, but not likely to improve your crawl.

The most notable addition to the deck is a new casual-dining venue called Le Café du Soleil. It serves mostly French-inspired light fare such as stuff-it-yourself baguette sandwiches, soup, salad nicoise, excellent pâtés and scrumptious tarte flambée, the Alsace version of a pizza. The only pity is that this delicious food remains the same every day.