Darling at The Star hotel review, Gold Coast: Service makes this hotel truly exceptional

THE LOCATION

Though it appears separated from The Star Gold Coast Casino by several hundred metres, an elevator transports you straight into the casino with its ever-increasing offering of restaurants, bars and gaming floors – you need never see daylight, if that's your fancy. Queensland's largest shopping centre, Pacific Fair (with 420 specialty stores) is across the road, as is Broadbeach, one of the Gold Coast's most chic restaurant and bar destinations.

THE SPACE

The Darling is the centrepiece for The Star Gold Coast's luxurious transformation. It's come a long way from the original model, Jupiter's Casino, which opened in 1985. These days there's more than a little of the opulence of Vegas, Macau and Monte Carlo about the place, though its style is inspired by its coastal surroundings. Therefore, abundant floor-to-ceiling windows take in beaches and the hinterland – particularly at The Darling's top level bar and restaurant where the beautiful people sit in lounges by an infinity pool spilling out on to the glitter strip below.

THE ROOM

There's only 57 suites spread across a 19-storey building, so you can gather every suite is going to be big (even the entry level suites are 70 square metres). I've been allocated a Southern Penthouse Deluxe Suite, which boasts a space of 328 square metres. Even the balcony – which looks across the mountains of the hinterland and the suburbs of the southern Gold Coast – is a whopping 80 square metres. My suite has its own billiard table room, and two king bedrooms. I'm told the Pope uses the same sheets that I have on my king bed, though I doubt he has a pillow menu offering five options (I opt for Boomerang) and my toilet is fully automated. In fact, every room has full automation, staying here like's living in the future.

THE FOOD

There's some of the better Italian and Japanese dishes available anywhere on the Gold Coast at The Star Casino, but The Darling's piece de resistance is its new fine dining restaurant, Nineteen At The Star. Located on the hotel's top floor, it's flanked by an infinity pool and revellers meet at the region's hippest new lounge bar just next door. But the restaurant is all about intimacy (think: cosy booths surrounded by towering wine racks). Bring your Visa, no main selection is under $46, but my Grilled Patagonian Toothfish is the best fish dish I've ever eaten. Caviar is served up in 30 or 50 gram increments, in case you're interested.