Hotel review: Spicers Hidden Vale in Grandchester, Queensland

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This was published 7 years ago

Hotel review: Spicers Hidden Vale in Grandchester, Queensland

By John Borthwick
Dinner for two on the water at Spicers Hidden Vale retreat.

Dinner for two on the water at Spicers Hidden Vale retreat.Credit: Jesse Smith

The Getaway: Spicers Hidden Vale, Grandchester, Queensland

THE LOCATION

It's one hour and a whole era's drive west of Brisbane. You leave the city's suburban satellite belts and soon find yourself in the Lockyer Valley and on the Lockyer Way. The latter was named, in true Queensland style, to honour local, state and international rugby league hero, Darren Lockyer, while the earlier Mr Lockyer — namesake of the valley — has sunk to such obscurity that who he was, or even the team he played for, rates not a mention in Wikipedia. This fertile realm, Queensland's grain basket and salad bowl, gives way to ranges and before you know it you're half way to Toowoomba, and winkling among the foothills around Grandchester to find Hidden Vale (which, despite the allure of its name, is not completely so). Spicers Hidden Vale resort boasts that it sits amid "12,000 acres" of true Australian bush. The "old money" statistic is fitting for this stately, 4856-hectare property.

Country style room at Spicers.

Country style room at Spicers. Credit: Hamilton Lund

THE SPACE

Spicers aspires to the style and comfort of a luxury country retreat and has successfully embodied this in what was the property's original house. This gracious Queensland homestead (as opposed to a classic "Queenslander"), now much expanded, features curved, deco-style archways, reading nooks and a long verandah (of course) that looks out over the first swells of the Great Dividing Range. Additions include a reception area, bar and lounge-room with log-fire, all of them being in loose harmony with the house's Federation style. A small outdoor swimming pool (one of two) sits to the side of the centrepiece lawns and lush gardens without intruding on the vista or the vivid horticulture. Equally unobtrusive are the tennis court, croquet lawn, campfire barbecue and meeting barn, all set to the rear of the main house. Guest accommodation, too, stands slightly apart and largely unseen from the homestead verandah.

THE ROOM

The pool at dusk.

The pool at dusk.

There are four styles of accommodation with some 30 rooms. Mine is a standard Valley View Room, one in a row of similar, single-storey units. From my porch I have uninterrupted views — a giant vista, in fact — across a valley to the Little Liverpool Range. The moon comes up like a headlight over its ridges, while in the morning a temperature inversion fills the valley like a bowl of fog soup until the sun burns it off. My room, although slightly cramped by its accoutrements, is well appointed with mini-bar, television and air-conditioning, plus free Wi-Fi and tea/coffee making facilities. Polished timber, crisp linen, brass, Appelles bathroom amenities, and robes and slippers, all tick the Wildean, "luxuries are the only necessities" box. The more elaborate accommodation includes Heritage Suites, Stand-Alone Cottages and Colonial Cottages, of differing configurations that are suitable for couples, families or friends and feature up to six ensuite bedrooms. Options include open fireplaces, spa baths, verandahs with valley views, and luxury amenities.

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THE FOOD

Homage is the word here. It's both the name of the in-house restaurant and their attitude to local produce. According to executive chef Ash Martin, everything served here is produced within a couple of hours, in the Darling Downs or Lockyer Valley regions, and in most cases, within 30 km. All fresh, nothing frozen. The menu changes constantly, reflecting what is locally foraged at the time. For me it culminates in a seven-course tasting menu, a truly adventurous excursion into local fare and unique textures that, abetted by the matched wines, defeats almost all description. The offerings include yabby on hot coals with bush bread; Murray Cod with red cabbage; pasture-fed hen and Mulgowie sweet corn; grain-fed beef with native pepper; and a white chocolate and celery dessert. Breakfast time rolls around and, although you've sworn you'll never need to eat again, somehow the fresh, local everything — eggs, bakery, bacon, fruit and milk — have their way. Deservedly, Homage has been awarded one Chef Hats in several recent awards at both state and national level.

STEPPING OUT

When you overcome the urge to not step out, to just hang on the noble verandah, reading, snoozing or swimming, there is indeed plenty to do. Excursions by horseback, mountain bike or four-wheel drive, or on actual foot, are available, as is archery and, for groups, plenty of corporate bonding stuff. I join a guided 4WD trip into the property's spectacular gullies and soaring eucalypt forests. Way up in a gum we spot one koala, although you'd hope they were more prevalent than that. Other excursions include a gourmet picnic lunch or a romantic sunset drinks tour, or further afield, a longer, self-drive up to colonial Toowoomba on the Great Divide. To fly in or out of here by helicopter to Brisbane West Wellcamp Airport (near Toowoomba) is a real thrill.

HIGHLIGHT

Isolation and degustation. A chance to decompress under open skies and then later to dine with a homegrown taste surprise at every serving.

LOWLIGHT

Slightly small standard rooms, which are otherwise so comfortable (and presumably you're not here for the Great Indoors) that such a reservation seems trivial.

THE VERDICT

Unpretentious, relaxed luxury. Decompression with the great, aromatic outdoors all around. The successful combination of quality accommodation, dining and excursions is very Australian, and executed without any sense of bunged-on "countryness" or squattocracy airs. The excellent, on-site Anise Spa is actually therapeutic and deserves a visit.

ESSENTIALS

Spicers Hidden Vale, 617 Grandchester Mount Mort Road, Grandchester, Qld 4340. See spicersretreats.com

John Borthwick was a guest of Spicers Retreats.

Our Rating: 4.5 out of 5

TripAdvisor Traveller Rating: 4.5 out of 5

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