This was published 12 years ago
Drop by: McLaren Vale
Winsor Dobbin presents the latest in a series of guides to the leading wine regions of Australia and New Zealand.
Lush and lively ... the Hugh Hamilton grounds.
RENOWNED for its flavoursome reds, McLaren Vale is one of the easiest wine regions to get to. Just a short drive south of Adelaide you'll find some 60-plus cellar doors and a genuine country welcome.
With its rich soils, warm climate and cooling sea breezes from Gulf St Vincent, McLaren Vale has been a premium winemaking region for almost two centuries and produces wines with power and flavour that usually offer excellent value for money.
Many of the leading wineries remain family owned and run. Oliver's Taranga last year celebrated its 170th anniversary while the Osborn family of d'Arenberg fame marked their centenary a couple of months ago.
The Mediterranean-style climate has proved irresistible to wine grape growers since John Reynell planted grapes at Reynella in 1838 and was quickly followed by Dr Rawson Penfold, whose name lives on in the wine industry today.
Many of the cellar doors are small and quirky - there is every chance you'll be served by the owner, winemaker or viticulturist.
How to get there
McLaren Vale begins just 40 minutes south of Adelaide and its vineyards are being encroached upon by rapidly spreading suburbia. All major domestic airlines fly to Adelaide and all major car hire companies have desks at Adelaide Airport.
Best cellar doors
Wirra Wirra is a charmingly eccentric cellar door set among gum trees with a barbecue area and deck overlooking the vines, which are managed biodynamically. This is a great spot for a family picnic.
The d'Arenberg winery and cellar door complex oozes history. The cellar door and the excellent d'Arry's Verandah restaurant are in a restored 19th-century homestead with views of McLaren Vale, the Willunga Hills and Gulf St Vincent. There is a huge selection of varieties to taste - and tutored tastings are offered for a small fee.
Angove's is the newest cellar door, opened this month. The tasting room, cellar door and boutique function facility overlooks the Angove family's Warboys Vineyard. The benchtops and tables have been crafted from recycled jarrah from 100-year-old storage vats.
The Shingleback cellar door is in a beautifully renovated colonial building - the original barn of Aldersey Farm, built in the late 1800s and restored in 2003. The walls are decorated with paintings by local artists and there is a playground area for kids to enjoy while parents do tastings.
The Lloyd family at Coriole, pioneers of sangiovese in Australia, produce wines, olive oils, olives and cheeses. Although the business was founded in 1967, the original farmhouses on the property are now part of the cellar door, restaurant and expansive gardens. The regional platters here are popular.
Also try Chapel Hill, Kangarilla Road, Pertaringa, Geoff Merrill/Mount Hurtle, Primo Estate, Shottesbrooke, Scarpantoni, Oliver's Taranga, Penny's Hill/Mr Riggs Cellars, Woodstock, Paxton, Oxenberry Farm and historic Hardys Tintara.
Where to eat
Fino is something of a Willunga institution and a favourite with local winemakers. Chef David Swain produces rustic, flavoursome dishes with a Mediterranean accent, concentrating on local produce. Think dishes such as wild Coorong rabbit sausage accompanied by capsicum and beans. The wine list is outstanding.
D'Arry's Verandah is consistently good with a vibrant atmosphere, great views and hearty portions. Chef Peter Reschke's menu changes seasonally but always features local produce.
Menu favourites include lobster medallion with blue swimmer crab, prawn ravioli and lobster bisque; and slow-roast pork belly and dumpling with green beans, dried olives and water chestnuts.
One of the newest places to eat is The Elbow Room at The Producers in McLaren Vale township, where former d'Arry's Verandah chef Nigel Rich opened up a few months ago.
Rich offers some pretty serious dishes such as cold smoked venison, burnt onion aioli and braised mushrooms; or confit duck leg with kimchi and pickled carrot salad, but only opens for lunch on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays.
Shottesbrooke vigneron Hamish Maguire and partner Emily Dowie are the new operators of the historic Currant Shed restaurant, which dates back to 1916. Chef Kerryn Oates's menu includes the likes of home-made pate topped with lime aspic (the limes pulled from trees in the neighbouring orchard) and blue swimmer crab risotto. Lunches only.
The Kitchen Door restaurant at Penny's Hill and Mr Riggs cellars features some interesting food and wine matchings and chef Ben Sommariva offers a tasting menu in addition to a la carte. Dishes include tempura zucchini flowers; smoked eel terrine; blue swimmer crab white omelet; or 20-hour braised oxtail.
Also try Woodstock Coterie, The Victory Hotel (Sellicks Beach), The Star of Greece, Russell's Pizza, Red Poles, The Barn and Ekhidna Kitchen.
What to drink
Shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, grenache, chardonnay and viognier are among the most planted grapes but alternative varieties including sangiovese, tempranillo, fiano and tannat are also thriving.
There are no fewer than 33 different grape varieties planted at d'Arenberg.
Make sure to try wines from smaller producers including Chalk Hill, Dandelion Vineyards, Dowie Doole, Gemtree, Alpha Box & Dice, Brash Higgins, Mitolo, Haselgrove, Hugh Hamilton, Paxton and Battle of Bosworth as well as the big names such as Hardys, Geoff Merrill, Wirra Wirra, Chapel Hill and Fox Creek.
Where to stay
The McLaren Vale Motel and Apartments has 25 large and well-equipped ground floor units and 12 newer studio apartments. It is centrally located, clean and comfortable and ideal for family groups, or those on a budget. From $170 depending on the season.
The Vintage offers luxury self-catering accommodation within walking distance of McLaren Vale township and many local cafes and restaurants. There are two studios with a French provincial feel, ideal for sharing by two couples. From $225 a night.
Villa Grenache is a luxury bed and breakfast in a Federation-style villa surrounded by working vineyards on Kangarilla Road. From $150 a night.
Amanda's Cottage, built in 1899, is surrounded by gum trees and offers a rural experience. From $230 a night with a two-night minimum.
Also try Many visitors prefer to base themselves in Adelaide and make day trips to McLaren Vale. The InterContinental and Hilton hotels offer world-class accommodation while the Majestic Rooftop Garden is centrally situated and affordable.
Festivals
The annual Sea & Vines Festival features the best of local wine and food and will be held June 10-11 while the Buenos Aires in the Vales Tango Festival runs from April20 to 22.
Local attractions
Willunga Farmers Market, held every Saturday, is a great spot to sample local produce including olive oils, venison, cheese, chocolates and other gourmet goodies. The entire region is something of a foodies' paradise with a wide range of boutique operators.
Golfers will enjoy outstanding courses including Links Lady Bay, Wirrina Cove, Willunga and the Fleurieu course at Mount Compass, while there are several local cheese producers worth visiting, including Alexandrina Cheese.
Nearby
Victor Harbour is a lively seaside village with a farmers' market on Saturday mornings, while there are many art galleries on the Fleurieu Peninsula.
More information
McLaren Vale and Fleurieu Visitor Information Centre, Main Road, McLaren Vale, 1800 628 410, visitonkaparinga.com. southaustralia.com.
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