Uncorked ... Stonier Winery.
Winsor Dobbin presents the third in a series of guides to visiting Australia and New Zealand's top wine regions.
OVER the past two decades, the Mornington Peninsula in Victoria has undergone a stunning metamorphosis from sleepy weekend destination to one of Australia's hottest wine and food destinations.
Today, it is hard to think of a region anywhere in Australia that ticks quite as many boxes as the peninsula: spectacular scenery, surf beaches, fine food, great wines and luxurious accommodation.
Its cool maritime climate has proved ideal for producing chardonnay and pinot noir, as well as for growing olives and berries and making artisanal cheeses.
The peninsula's gourmet pleasures are now legion and tourists swamp the region over the summer period. That's no surprise, given there are more than 50 cellar doors and dozens of restaurants, many overlooking vineyards.
You are indisputably in the country here, with lush farmland and winding country lanes. The names are impressive and familiar: Stonier, Ten Minutes by Tractor, Paringa Estate, Tuck's Ridge, Paradigm Hill, Yabby Lake, T'Gallant, Scorpo, Ocean Eight and Quealy, to name a few.
T'Gallant Winery.Credit: Sandra Jackson
How to get there
The Mornington Peninsula is just under an hours drive from Melbourne. Qantas, Virgin Australia and Jetstar all fly to Melbourne from Sydney and all major car hire companies have desks at Melbourne Airport.
Best cellar doors
The spectacular new Port Phillip Estate facility should be on any visitor's itinerary. The complex features a restaurant, cellar door and tasting room, an outside deck overlooking vineyards and Western Port Bay, state-of-the-art winemaking facilities and luxury apartment accommodation. Wines from its sister producer, Kooyong, are also on taste.
Brothers Tony and Michael Lee own and operate Foxeys Hangout, one of the most beautiful and relaxed tasting facilities in the region. Create your own sparkling wine blend here for a fee and, at weekends, try superb tasting plates of dishes such as mushrooms grilled in vine leaves and barbecued quail.
Long-time favourite Willow Creek has undergone a major facelift and its renovated cellar door features a bluestone tasting bench and a new-look Salix Bistro with deck. It is also home to Salix Restaurant, one of the peninsula's dining icons.
Main Ridge Estate, which has celebrated its 35th anniversary, offers the ultimate aficionado experience. It's a tiny space where Nat White, one of the region's winemaking pioneers, pours his own wines - top-quality Burgundian-style chardonnays and pinots noir.
Paringa Estate has a fun cellar door with extremely knowledgeable staff and splendid pinots and shirazes (even a riesling).
David and Wendy Lloyd at Eldridge Estate are purely focused on wine, with a range of pinots featuring different clones and winemaking techniques - and one of Australia's best gamays.
Also try Morning Sun, Moorooduc Estate, Crittenden Estate, Dromana Estate, Nazaaray Estate, Ocean Eight, Prancing Horse, Stonier, T'Gallant, Tuck's Ridge, Darling Park - and chardonnay specialist Yabby Lake.
Where to eat
A huge favourite with local winemakers, The Long Table serves seasonal modern Australian cuisine made from local produce at realistic prices. Think dishes like rabbit terrine with shimeji mushrooms or citrus-glazed duck with baby carrots. There's a good wine list and serious-but-relaxed service.
Arguably the best restaurant in the region, Ten Minutes by Tractor offers beautifully presented contemporary cuisine and a spectacular wine list. It is ranked among the top 10 regional eateries in Victoria.
Zac Poulier (once the personal chef for Russell Crowe) and his wife, Jacqui, are doing a superb job at Stillwater at Crittenden, which is particularly popular in the summer months when crowds spill out into the gardens overlooking the vineyards and lake.
The locally-born chef Max Paganoni opened Max's at Red Hill Estate in 1993 and was one of the pioneers of wine tourism in the region. His menus change seasonally and he uses local produce when possible. The views, too, are spectacular.
You could easily be in the south of France given the ambience at Montalto Vineyard and Olive Grove, where long lunches are encouraged and much of the fruit, vegetables and herbs served are grown on the estate. Merricks General Store, which is the cellar door for the Elgee Park, Baillieu Vineyard and Quealy labels, has been a community hub since 1924. Nowadays the chef, Janine Richmond, serves country breakfasts, flavoursome lunches and tapas in a laid-back atmosphere.
Also try La Baracca Trattoria at T'Gallant winery, Main Ridge Dairy, La Petanque, The Rocks, Flinders Hotel, Brass Razu, DOC Mornington and Two Buoys.
What to drink
Wine varieties that thrive in cool climates, particularly chardonnay and pinot noir, are the most popular in the region, although pinot gris and gamay are grown with considerable success. Ocean Eight's pinot gris is outstanding, while Eldridge Estate produces arguably Australia's best gamay.
It is worth seeking out wines made by some of the smaller producers: tiny and rustic Hurley Vineyard (appointment only) makes outstanding pinot noirs, while riesling and shiraz are among the standouts at Paradigm Hill.
Where to stay
Perfect for couples, Kudos at the Vines is a new vineyard retreat surrounded by vines that offers four luxury studio apartments with spa baths and big-screen TVs. It's also great to sit on the deck and take in the views. Rates start at $285 a night.
For a luxury escape, Port Phillip Estate has six stylish apartments with king-size beds, living rooms, spacious en suites and stunning views across vines to the bay, as well as outdoor terraces. From $500.
Ideal for families, Max's Retreat at Red Hill Estate has well-equipped cottage accommodation in the vineyards - and views to the water. From $300 a couple a night.
Lakeside Villas at Crittenden Estate features delightful and spacious over-water villas and is next door to the top-notch Stillwater restaurant. From $280.
For golfers, Peppers Moonah Links is a stylish resort with two championship courses. From $195.
Also try RACV Cape Schanck Resort, Tussie Mussie Vineyard Retreat and Mantons Creek Vineyard Accommodation.
Festivals
Peninsula Piers and Pinots is held every year on the Sunday of the Labour Day weekend.
Red Hill Long Lunch is a fixture each March.
The Winter Wine Weekend is three days of fun over the Queen's Birthday long weekend.
Pinot Week, a celebration of pinot noir at cellar doors and in restaurants, is held each October.
Mornington Peninsula International Pinot Noir Celebration is a two-yearly festival celebrating the most capricious grape in the world. The next festival is scheduled for January 2013.
Local attractions
Red Hill hosts a terrific country market on the first Saturday of each month and the Red Hill Brewery is a top spot for a leisurely lunch, with several seasonal beers on offer.
Visit the delightful Peninsula Hot Springs retreat, where you can bathe in mineral spring water and enjoy massages and choose from several golf courses, with the rugged coastline providing perfect links conditions at The National (three courses), The Cape, The Dunes, Portsea and Moonah Links.
Nearby
With Melbourne just down the road, city delights are on the doorstep. There is also a car ferry running from Portsea to Queenscliff.
For more information
Mornington Peninsula Tourism and Visitor Information Centre, 359B Point Nepean Road, Dromana. (03) 5987 3078, visitmornington peninsula.org.
Mornington Peninsula Vignerons Association. (03) 5989 2377, mpva.com.au.
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