Edinburgh: One day three ways

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This was published 9 years ago

Edinburgh: One day three ways

By Brian Johnston
No matter how you choose to see Edinburgh, you'll be impressed by its castle and cathedral.

No matter how you choose to see Edinburgh, you'll be impressed by its castle and cathedral.Credit: Alamy

PENNY PINCH

No need for transport tickets: just walk. Admire the expensive castle from a distance, but soak up old-town ambience free, including its cathedral, historic pubs and Lady Stair's House (edinburghmuseums.org.uk), a museum containing objects that once belonged to such great Scottish writers as Walter Scott, Robert Burns and Robert Louis Stevenson. Also free is the small but very fine National Gallery of Scotland (nationalgalleries.org) and impressive National Museum of Scotland (nms.ac.uk). Splurge at the museum's rooftop Tower Restaurant (tower-restaurant.com; two courses $29), worth it for views alone. In the afternoon, the Royal Botanic Garden is one of Europe's best, especially during rhododendron season. Have burritos for dinner at Illegal Jack's (illegaljacks.co.uk; $13) and kip at the friendly High Street Hostel (highstreethostel.com; $22 dorm bed, $72 twin) in a 16th-century old-town building.

TOTAL: $64

EASY DOES IT

Visit grim Edinburgh Castle (edinburghcastle.gov.uk; $29), for centuries a fortress and royal residence. Then follow Royal Mile between canyons of mediaeval houses and past little museums and old-fashioned pubs. Gladstone's Land (nts.org.uk; $12) is a furnished 17th-century merchant's home that boasts original painted ceilings. Take a lunch detour through university buildings to relaxed Spoon Cafe (spoonedinburgh.co.uk; $27). Then check out Princes Street, Edinburgh's main shopping drag, and peaceful Princes Street Gardens. The area north of Princes Street presents elegant, 18th-century Edinburgh; Georgian House (nts.org.uk; $12) is a fascinating glimpse of a Jane Austen world. Tuck into venison and whisky-laden cranachan in Victoria-era surrounds at Cafe Royal (caferoyaledinburgh.co.uk; four courses $63). Stay at the elegant Sheraton Grand (sheratonedinburgh.co.uk; $288), which has a superb rooftop spa.

TOTAL: $431

SPLASH OUT

Start with a look at the revamped waterfront precinct and historic port of Leith on the Firth of Forth, where you can clamber aboard the Royal Yacht Britannia (royalyachtbritannia.co.uk; $22) for a stickybeak at this iconic vessel. Lunch at one-star Michelin restaurant Martin Wishart (restaurantmartinwishart.co.uk; $52), where French flair meets fine Scottish seafood such as sea bass and Orkney scallops. Investigate Leith's boutique fashion and jewellery stores before heading into the old town to visit Holyroodhouse (royalcollection.org.uk; $20), a mostly 17th-century royal palace and official residence of the Queen in Scotland. Afterwards, wander through the old town's atmospheric streets. The Witchery (thewitchery.com; $587) provides the ultimate in historic luxury stays right on the Royal Mile; hard to go past the classy Scots fare in its restaurant (three courses $60), one of Edinburgh's best.

TOTAL: $741

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