This was published 14 years ago
Far from the madding crowds, possums and kangaroos excepted
Stay a while ... a solitary walk at West Bay.
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Whether you're after a high-end hilltop eyrie or a bush camp by the sand, there are accommodation options to suit all tastes. Three writers share their experiences.
WEST BAY
AS A TRAVELLER with tendencies trending toward sociopathic, I find the West Bay campground an obvious choice. Part of Flinders Chase National Park, it meets all the criteria: perched at the opposing end to the island's access point from the mainland; borders an area with the keywords ''wilderness protection area''; and is at risk of toppling into the Southern Ocean, unnoticed.
We make the number one mistake you can make on Kangaroo Island, before we even leave the mainland: misjudging our timing. We cruise into Penneshaw, on the east coast, in the early evening anticipating a easy drive to the campground, savouring enough light to set up. Instead we spend three plus hours crawling along roads deserted except for wildlife. The ribbon of road plays host to an inter-species all-out fiesta. Amazing what can happen in the absence of predatory critters such as foxes and rabbits.
The campground is so dense with animals that clearing room to peg out the tent spirals into a farce. While staring down a stubborn echidna I deny calls from the car for attention. One child ventures louder: "Mum, there's a possum in the car." Cynical, but worth checking out; I find a possum with sandwich poised, masquerading as a child in the back seat. A ringtail where other legs dangle.
Morning helps define the campground - a handful of sites (all empty), a toilet and a path down to the beach. Along the path are some picnic tables teetering on limestone cliffs. The beach is rugged and exhilarating, the only other travellers organic flotsam and jetsam from far-flung places.
The bay has been a magnet for shipwrecks over time and a grave is nestled just behind the dunes where a sailor was buried after the wreck of the Loch Vennachar in 1905, when 28 people drowned.
In 2007, 85 per cent of Flinders Chase National Park was burned in bushfires started by lightning. The regeneration is spectacular. Our bushwalks are rewarded with koala sightings, among myriad other creatures who make this haven home.
- Ainslie MacGibbon
From our king size bed we watch the sky lighten and turn pink before an orange sun bursts above the horizon. Sleeping in is not an option when enjoying a walk at sunrise is as easy as this.
Before the sun is properly up, we're out the door and off across paddocks dotted with grazing kangaroos and wallabies. It's early autumn and a hot summer has turned the landscape a dusty brown. A cool wet change is coming - everywhere we go, excited South Australians are anticipating its arrival - but we enjoy perfect tourist weather.
We're staying in the west wing at Snellings View, a duplex on Constitution Hill, high above lovely Snellings Beach on the north-west coast.
By day we look at wildlife and wild landscapes, but before nightfall we're back at our hilltop eyrie, pre-dinner drinks in hand, ready to enjoy the sunset from our private and spacious deck. With creatures on the hop everywhere - it's not called Kangaroo Island for nothing - it's far less stressful to stay off the road and enjoy our Snellings view. The only exception is on our first evening when we venture down the hill for dinner in the old shearing shed at the upmarket resort Lifetime Private Retreats.
Our accommodation turns out to be an excellent choice. It's well located for all the things we want to see, though be prepared for plenty of driving, often on pretty terrible dirt roads. And do bring everything you need with you - it's a long way to the nearest shop, at Parndana.
The house is only a year or so old and beautifully finished and equipped. The kitchen is perfect - good appliances and every utensil you can think of. We also give a big tick to comfortable beds and high-quality linen, breathtaking ocean and countryside views, great TV reception, luxurious bathrooms, a laundry and stacks of storage. Each duplex can accommodate up to six people; or 12 in both wings using a central reception-style entrance and a shared outdoor dining/barbecue area.
PENNESHAW
ROUNDING OFF a few days of bashing around the bush with a stay in luxury accommodation must be habit-forming. This is the umpteenth time I have concluded a camping trip with a night or two between thick, creamy bed linen. And after braving pit toilets, cold showers and countless insects, the suites at Hog Bay Hill seem all the sweeter.
I arrive after dark, exhausted. The manager, Sophie Newland, greets me warmly before leaving me to my huge, fluffy bed.
The ocean suite's spotless interior is much like the island itself: casual, simple and natural. There is lots of timber, polished floorboards and clean lines, in creams, browns and blacks. L'Occitane toiletries line the bathroom shelves, a walk-in robe hides all my clutter and the stylish kitchenette stocks tea and plunger coffee. It is thoughtful quality without pretension.
Morning arrives and the room's most winning feature is apparent: the view. The property overlooks the ferry wharf and is not far from the town of Penneshaw. On fine days such as this the suite's large windows frame a peaceful panorama of clear sky, tree tops, sand and ocean. The island may be only a couple of hours' drive and a ferry ride from Adelaide, but it feels remote and serene.
My breakfast platter includes a salmon and rocket wrap, croissants, jam, fruit and yoghurt, plus cereal and juice. Breakfast on day two is equally fresh and stylish: pancakes, gourmet muesli and strawberries.
Hog Bay Hill has an elegant entertainment and dining room with a home-theatre system and flat-screen television, a well-appointed kitchen stocked with provisions and a range of teas, chai and coffee beans, and a laundry, where I clean the camping out of my clothes. These facilities make the property's three suites suitable for an extended family getaway or gathering of friends.
The only missing element is a bath. A few days ago I was pouring buckets of icy water over my head in a shed but now I would love a foamy, indulgent soak. Oh, how standards change.
- Megan Johnston
Megan Johnston travelled courtesy of Hog Bay Hill and South Australian Tourism Commission.
WHERE TO STAY
PENNESHAW
Hog Bay Hill, Wrights Road, (08) 8553 1114, hogbayhill.com.au. Bed and breakfast rates are $250 a night for island suites and $290 for the ocean suite.
SNELLINGS BEACH
Snellings View, North Coast Road, Middle River, 0408 337 609, snellingsview.com.au. Low-season rate for one wing is $295 for two people per night; extra guests are $25 each a night. High season (school holidays and Easter) is $400 per night.
WEST BAY
Four of eight bush camp sites at West Bay are open. Prices range from $5 (cyclists and hikers) to $10.50 (per car) a night. Showers are available at the Rocky River Campground for $3.50. Entry to Flinders Chase National Park is extra. For bookings: email flinderschase@sa.gov.au or phone (08) 8553 4490.
For other KI accommodation options, see tourkangarooisland.com.au and environment.sa.gov.au/parks/visitor/kisland.html.
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