Four Seasons Bosphorus hotel, Istanbul review: Pleasure palace

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This was published 8 years ago

Four Seasons Bosphorus hotel, Istanbul review: Pleasure palace

By Ute Junker
Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at the Bosphorus.

Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at the Bosphorus.

It's not often that the view from your hotel room stretches all the way to the neighbouring continent, but that's the vista before me. Of course, since I'm in Istanbul, the city that spans two continents, that's slightly less extraordinary than it sounds. Nonetheless, gazing out across the mighty Bosphorus river to the shores of Asia is an impressive introduction to the Four Seasons Bosphorus Hotel.

Istanbul is not like other cities. The capital of successive empires – Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman – it has monuments like other cities have manhole covers. In most cities, any hotel housed in a historic riverfront mansion would immediately be the most in-demand property in town. In Istanbul, most of the top lodgings, including the Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at the Bosphorus, can make that claim.

So what sets this hotel apart? The first thing I notice when I arrive is how restrained the design is. I have been half-expecting some over-the-top Moorish fantasy, but I should know better – this is the Four Seasons, the Armani of luxury hotels. Over the top is not in their DNA.

Sign up for a private hamam session.

Sign up for a private hamam session.

So although the lobby is suitably striking, with extravagant flower arrangements and lashings of marble, this is a hotel that feels laid back as well as luxurious. Shades of mocha and cream predominate, and the Ottoman influences are subtle: a metal mesh lamp here, a mirror with a carved wooden frame there. In the lobby bar, a flock of comfy sofas encourages lounging.

I have scored a room in the original building, a dusty pink construction with high windows (the two wings were added later). The corridors are graced with a series of subtle arches; inside my room the recessed ceiling is decorated with elegant, calligraphy-inspired designs. The room's single most prominent feature, however, is that attention-grabbing river view.

After gazing out the window for a while, I eventually get around to checking out the rest of the room. The generous bathroom has a separate bath and shower, an old kilim on the floor and wonderfully thick towels; in the bedroom, I'm particularly taken by the silk curtains and the ultra-comfortable bed.

Evening on the terrace.

Evening on the terrace.

But really, here it's all about the river. I quickly discover that the very best place from which to admire it is the hotel's 190-metre riverfront terrace. In the tranquil early hours, you can see cormorants and pelicans skimming low over the surface. Later in the day, the river gets crowded with passenger ferries, cargo ships and other craft.

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I rarely bother with breakfast, but on learning that it is served on the terrace, I decide I can probably manage a little something. Confronted with the expansive buffet – which offers everything from a typical Turkish breakfast to pancakes, Asian dishes such as noodles and dumplings to an embarrassing array of pastries – I am overwhelmed with choice.

I decide to keep it simple with a bread roll, but immediately there is another hurdle to navigate: which of the four types of honey will I choose? I'm torn between chestnut and pine honey, but after finally making a choice – I go with the tangy-tasting pine honey – I'm immediately faced with a decision about drinks. I hesitate between pomegranate juice and plum sherbet, before deciding to go for broke and have both.

Enjoy the views over the Bosphorus.

Enjoy the views over the Bosphorus.

It is tempting to spend all day lounging on the terrace, cooling off occasionally in the pool, but all of Istanbul lies waiting. Located in the Besiktas district, the hotel is some distance from the popular districts of Sultanahmet and Galata, but a quick taxi trip – or, even better, a ferry ride – will get you there easily enough.

However, there is also plenty to explore on your doorstep. Within walking distance lie areas such as Ortakoy and Bebek, once simple fishing villages but now some of Istanbul's most desirable neighbourhoods. The buzzing bars and cafes, old-school markets and chic boutiques give visitors plenty to explore.

Istanbul has a dynamic restaurant scene, but I can't resist staying in one night for one more meal on that terrace. If anything, it is even more enchanting in the evening, its fountain illuminated, its trees strung with fairy lights, the elegantly lit Bosphorus Bridge in the background. Fortunately, the food at Aqua restaurant – a contemporary take on Italian classics, beautifully plated – matches the surroundings.

Also worth a visit is the hotel's sprawling spa where, in addition to the usual range of massages and facials, you can sign up for a private hamam session. Arrive early for your appointment so you can spend some time relaxing in the steam room. From there, lying on your heated marble slab, you will be scrubbed, massaged, and coated in a light layer of mud before being thoroughly rinsed. Even more than silky smooth skin, the best benefit of a hamam is the deep-seated feeling of relaxation. Truly a royal experience.

TRIP NOTES

MORE INFORMATION

fourseasons.com/Istanbul-Bosphorus

GETTING THERE

Etihad Airways flies daily from Sydney and Melbourne, with connections to Istanbul. See etihad.com

STAYING THERE

Rates at the Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at the Bosphorus start from 540 euro plus VAT a room a night. See fourseasons.com

Ute Junker was a guest of Four Seasons.

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