This was published 6 years ago
Grootbos, South Africa luxury wilderness lodge review: A landscape reborn
By Craig Platt
The lodge, first opened in 1996, burnt to the ground in 2006 after fire swept through the area. But it was rebuilt within nine months, reopening the same year.Credit: Grootbos Private Nature Reserve
As most Australians know only too well, fire is a destructive force that can wreak havoc on landscapes and towns. But fire also has its benefits – some might consider it to be humanity's greatest discovery.
And fire can also refresh and renew a landscape, allowing long-dormant species to come back to life.
On the other side of the world, on South Africa's southern whale coast, botanist Sean Privett is talking about fire with a level of excitement.
After the fire 69 new species of fynbos, long gone from the region, returned. Six of those discovered were new to science and unique to the area.Credit: Grootbos Private Nature Reserve
Privett is based at Grootbos, a luxury lodge and nature reserve about two hours' drive from Cape Town. The lodge, first opened in 1996, burnt to the ground in 2006 after fire swept through the area. But it was rebuilt within nine months, reopening the same year.
That was when Privett noticed the change – it wasn't just the lodge that came back better than before. Fynbos, the small, leafy bush native to the area and famous for the colourful wildflowers that cover this part of the world in spring, came back with a vengeance. Of the 9000 species of fynbos, 765 are found within this small region.
"You read headlines like 'fire destroys mountain', but from the point of view of nature, that's not the case," says Privett. "Everything recovers."
To call this a "room" feels like an understatement.
It wasn't just the previous flora that came back – 69 new species of fynbos, long gone from the region, returned. Six of those discovered were new to science and unique to the area.
"We're still finding new things," says Privett. "It's so exciting for botany. It's incredible."
The property itself offers more than just botany as an attraction. There are two lodges, the Garden Lodge and Forest Lodge, each independent with their own dining and lounge areas. The accommodations (calling them "rooms" feels like an understatement) are really private villas, featuring an entryway with a minibar leading through to a large living area with fireplace, television and sun deck – there's even a guest bathroom. The bedroom features an enormous four-poster bed and walk-in robe. The bathroom of marble and wood features a large shower and spacious floor leading to a large bath that sits in the window with views out to the ocean. The windows and deck run the length of the villa meaning there are views from every part of the space.
Meals are included and its fine dining all the way.
Those views look out across the landscape to Walker Bay, famous for its whale watching and shark diving. South Africa's infamous "Shark Alley" – a narrow strait between the mainland and a small, rocky island home to a seal colony – can be seen from the lodge. Cage diving with great whites is a popular day trip for guests, though poor weather prevents me from giving it a go (which I'm secretly relieved about).
Instead, I opt for gentler pursuits. Grootbos runs daily nature walks with its knowledgeable and enthusiastic guides, many of whom are environmental scientists who spend time each month on field work and research, when not guiding.
Though the plant life is diverse, there is also a diversity of wildlife here – mountain leopards, honey badgers, porcupines, mongoose, even baboons (fortunately, unlike the aggressive beasts of Cape Town, the baboons here are timid).
The Forest Lodge.
Grootbos began its life after the Lutzeyer family saw a small farm for sale overlooking Walker Bay, back in 1991. Starting as a B&B, it slowly developed into the luxury eco-lodge it is now. Over that time, the property has won multiple awards for its environmental efforts and this commitment to sustainable, environmentally friendly tourism is obvious.
Plastic bottles are banned – spring water is provided in bottles that are cleaned and re-used. Dinner, which is a fabulous affair, relies heavily on herbs and vegetables grown on the property's own organic farm. The Grootbos Foundation, meanwhile, also employs locals and trains them in horticulture, hospitality and tourism.
Nash, one of the guides to go through the foundation's program, takes me down to the rocky coast where we explore the caves famous for their historical significance. Formed millions of years ago, these caves became home to early humans – Stone Age hunter gatherers who lived in the era more than 70,000 years ago. In the 1960s, the most important of these caves, called Klipgat, yielded amazing finds of ancient pottery, stone tools and discarded bones.
Klipgat Cave's window on the coast.Credit: Grootbos Private Nature Reserve
Looking out through the cave's spectacular "window" on the ocean, it's hard to believe this rugged environment was once a home. But, like the fire-renewed landscape surrounding Grootbos, this part of the world has been a place of spectacular and constant transformation.
Trip Notes
More
Stay
Stays at Grootbos start from ZAR5200 (approx $A470) a person a night including full board and activities. See grootbos.com
The writer stayed as a guest of Grootbos.
Sign up for the Traveller Deals newsletter
Get exclusive travel deals delivered straight to your inbox. Sign up now.