Hawaiian architecture: Great buildings beyond beaches

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This was published 7 years ago

Hawaiian architecture: Great buildings beyond beaches

By Andrea Black
Heaven on earth: The swimming pool and view from Doris Duke's Shangri La in Hawaii.

Heaven on earth: The swimming pool and view from Doris Duke's Shangri La in Hawaii. Credit: Doris Duke estate

Beyond the high-rise tower blocks on the beach in Waikiki, Hawaii is a haven for architectural gems – you just have to know where to look. Granted, they can be easy to miss in a destination where the natural environment often outshines the built one. After Hawaii became the 50th US state in 1959 and tourism became the major industry, cheap towers were being built to meet demand, but some architects, such as Russian-born modernist Vladimir Ossipoff, were determined to fight what he called the ''war against ugliness". Taking cues from the local environment in their design, their style became known as tropical modernism. There's a fine example that many have experienced, the Honolulu International Airport. Here indoor/outdoor lanai, or patios, border flourishing gardens. This openness to tradewinds and greenery is a salve for anyone whose plane is delayed. Beyond the gateway, there are fine examples of architecture on the Hawaii Islands. Here are some of the best.

THE LILJESTRAND HOUSE

Pull up the driveway upon Mount Tantalus in Honolulu and the Liljestrand House looks unassuming, almost cabin-like. But once inside this mid-century modern gem, you can see why it has been described as Hawaii's Fallingwater (the Frank Lloyd Wright masterpiece).

Doris Duke's Shangri La in Hawaii.

Doris Duke's Shangri La in Hawaii. Credit: Doris Duke estate

Designed by Ossipoff and built for the Liljestrand family in 1952, each room in the house was designed to ingeniously takes advantage of the views out to Diamond Head, Waikiki and Pearl Harbor. The master bedroom is tilted 45 degrees away from the rest of the home so the forest of eucalyptus trees could stay.

Trudy Couillard, a bubbly Australian who looks like a young Olivia Newton-John and works for The Liljestrand Foundation, and Bob – the son of the late owners Howard and Betty – welcome us on a tour of the home.

Bob shows us a 53-page cover feature on the home from a 1958 issue of House Beautiful magazine. The house still looks exactly as it did then. Built at the time of post-war confidence, Ossipoff worked closely with Betty to tailor it to her specifications. In the kitchen there are different workstations for flower arranging, sewing, typing and even gift-wrapping. The furniture, some made from the wood of a tree from the Liljestrand's former Aiea home, was also designed by Ossipoff.

Stunning living room at Doris Duke's Shangri La in Hawaii.

Stunning living room at Doris Duke's Shangri La in Hawaii.Credit: Doris Duke estate

It's clear this was once a party house. Downstairs was reserved for movie screenings and on the lanai billiards and table tennis were played. Beyond, there is a kidney-shaped pool.

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Bob, a retired architect, lives in a garden shack on the property and when not taking tours, is working on a book about the house. He takes us to the dedicated archive room, full of photos, plans and meticulously taken notes. Back upstairs, the cooling afternoon winds breeze through, as we take one last lingering look at the view.

For tours see theliljestrandhouse.com.

Hawaii State Capitol Building.

Hawaii State Capitol Building.Credit: Alamy

HAWAII STATE CAPITOL BUILDING

As is often the case with US government buildings, at first glance the State Capitol Building looks imposing. What separates this from others, which tend to be in the Georgian or Federalist style, is that it's a modernist expression of civic ideals as well as a tribute to Hawaii. Completed in 1969 (10 years after Hawaii became the 50th state), the streamlined structure features legislative chambers in the shape of a volcano and 40 concrete royal palms as columns. The water surrounding the building represents the ocean.

Inside each chamber, behind the Hawaiian koa hardwood seating and podium is a giant tapestry in sea and sky tones, designed by local artist, Ruthadell Anderson. A chandelier hanging in the centre of the room is made out of 620 nautilus shells represents the moon.

Cool pool at Surfjack Hotel in Hawaii.

Cool pool at Surfjack Hotel in Hawaii.

This is the only state capitol in the US where the legislators can't get to their offices without passing the public. And visitors can freely walk through the open central courtyard and look into the chambers or take a guided tour given on Wednesdays at 1pm, just when the public servants are walking out to get their lunch. See governor.hawaii.gov.

DORIS DUKE'S SHANGRI LA

Perched on a cliff at Diamond Head, philanthropist Doris Duke's mansion, known as Shangri La, is a shrine to her vast collection of Islamic art. Duke's passion for Iran, Morocco, Syria and northern India is also reflected in the architecture of the house, which was completed in 1938.

 Surfjack Hotel in Hawaii.

Surfjack Hotel in Hawaii.Credit: Surfjack Hotel

Each room is flanked by a central outdoor courtyard featuring mosaic tiles dating back to the 13th century. There's even a mihrab from 1265 (for which she outbid the Metropolitan Museum of Art).

Duke was the daughter of a wealthy tobacco tycoon who died when she was 12. She spent years travelling the world – including Hawaii, which she fell in love with – collecting pieces and influences along the way.

Wooden ceilings, coloured-glass windows and marble feature heavily. Duke's bedroom was inspired by the Taj Mahal. The loungeroom has a ceiling that was commissioned in Morocco. It's all very elaborate, but with floor to ceiling retractable windows looking out to the garden and sea beyond, it all seems to work.

Surfjack Hotel in Hawaii.

Surfjack Hotel in Hawaii.

Beginning at the Honolulu Museum of Art, guided tours at Shangri La are offered Wednesday to Saturday. Tickets must be reserved in advance. See shangrilahawaii.org.

KING KAMEHAMEHA GOLF CLUB

Hawaii is known as a golfer's paradise, with brilliant sunshine and breathtaking backdrops. On the island of Maui, the King Kamehameha Golf Club is a spectacular course but the real show-stopper is the clubhouse.

The Liljestrand House.

The Liljestrand House.Credit: Bob Liljestrand

Incredibly, this club was designed by architect Frank Lloyd Wright and was originally intended to be a home for Marilyn Monroe and husband, playwright Arthur Miller. They shelved the idea after breaking up, and the building never eventuated. Then in 1988 the golf club owners visited Lloyd Wright's Taliesin West in Arizona to view the original plans.

The clubhouse is larger than the original plans but the integrity of the design remains. As well as a large portrait of Frank Lloyd Wright, the building also features his trademark leaded glass skylights, heavy doors and fixtures, as well as views of Haleakala volcano. There's also a chance you might bump into club members including Clint Eastwood, Willie Nelson and Alice Cooper.

The King Kamehameha Golf Course is a private facility but offers a "Member for a Day" option to the public. If you're not into golfing, you can visit when Uncle Willie K, a revered musician plays there every second Thursday. Or simply just pop in for a snoop. See kamehamehagolf.com.

The Liljestrand House.

The Liljestrand House.Credit: Bob Liljestrand

FIVE WAYS TO GET THE MID-CENTURY VIBE IN HAWAII

STAY AT THE SURFJACK HOTEL

At the new Surfjack Hotel, a 112-room boutique hotel close to Waikiki Beach, you can expect all the spoils of old Hawaii. Think poolside cocktails, a fern gallery, retro furniture and cruiser bike hire. Even the pool has an Instagram-worthy readymade postcard mosaic with "Wish you were here" etched to it. See surfjack.com.

BUY A VINTAGE HAWAIIAN SHIRT

Designer Roberta Oaks is leading the way in repurposing Hawaiian shirts and muumuus. Oaks has a store in Chinatown. For the real deal (albeit at high prices) you can find vintage aloha shirts at Bailey's. See robertaoaks.com, alohashirts.com.

DRINK A COCKTAIL AT THE LAST REMAINING ORIGINAL TIKI BAR

Out near the airport, the last original tiki bar in Oahu, La Mariana Sailing Club (established in 1957) is still serving exotic cocktails in original tiki mugs. A pianist plays golden oldies and the decor features tikis, waterfalls and seafarers' paraphernalia. lamarianasailingclub.com.

GO SHOPPING FOR VINYL RECORDS

Want some exotica on LP, or maybe even a copy of Tiny Bubbles by Don Ho? Then head to Hawaii's best record stores, Idea's (sic) and Hungry Ear Records where you can find bargains for as low as $US1. ideasmusicandbooks.com, hungryear.com.

VISIT THE ELVIS STATUE

Many households the world over once had a copy of Elvis Aloha From Hawaii Via Satellite on vinyl. It was recorded (and beamed to the world) in Honolulu in what is now named the Neal Blaisdell Centre. Outside stands a statue of Elvis circa 1973. There is always a fresh lei around the King's neck, he loved Hawaii, and Hawaiians love him. blaisdellcenter.com.

TRIP NOTES

MORE INFORMATION

gohawaii.com/au.

GETTING THERE

Hawaiian Airlines flies daily from Sydney and four times weekly from Brisbane direct to Honolulu, using new Airbus A330-200 aircraft. Connections from Melbourne and other Australian cities are available with preferred partner Virgin Australia.

Hawaiian Airlines also has regular flights to Maui from Honolulu. See hawaiianairlines.com.au.

The writer travelled to Hawaii as a guest of Hawaii Tourism and Hawaiian Airlines.

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