This was published 5 years ago
Kaena Point, Oahu: The unvisited Hawaiian coast that is the epicentre of a legend
By Julie Miller
Kuliouou Ridge, Oahu, Hawaii.Credit: SHUTTERSTOCK
When it rains on the arid west coast of Oahu, it's said to be an auspicious sign and a cause for celebration. But as the tail-end of Hurricane Olivia unleashes her soaking fury on Kaena Point, I can't help but wonder if the gods are sending us an unwelcome message.
For this is a place of great mana, or life force, where Hawaii's ancient spirituality is particularly potent. The westernmost sliver of the island, Kaena Point is said to be where the souls of the departed jump off into the afterlife. It's also where the demi-god Maui (of Moana fame) cast his hook, unsuccessfully trying to drag the neighbouring island of Kauai through the ocean to make it join with Oahu.
But the story we have come to hear on this wild, wet morning is a raunchy saga involving a menage a trois between Pele, the tempestuous goddess of volcanoes and fire, her sister Hi'iaka, goddess of dance and sorcery, and their human lover, the handsome prince Lohiau. And this convoluted epic tale is being told through traditional storytelling close to Hi'iaka's heart – hula.
Kaena Point at sunrise.Credit: SHUTTERSTOCK
Our hike to Kaena Point is an illustration of Four Seasons Oahu's commitment to promoting traditional Hawaiian culture, as showcased in its #FSWayfinders program, a series of workshops and activities exploring the arts, crafts and storytelling of the islands.
Throughout my three-day stay at this luxury hotel, in the westernmost resort area of Ko Olina, I learn how to make a floral haku crown and explore the art of jewellery made from rare and treasured shells from the "forbidden island" of Niihau. I'm also honoured with a traditional blessing by the spiritual leader, or kahu, of this area, Auntie Nettie Tiffany.
This morning, however, we are setting out with the Wayfinders hula instructor, La'akea Perry, the respected kumu hula, or teacher, of the award-winning Kei Kai o Kahiki troupe. We are also joined by one of his lead dancers, Kaena, whose name – shared with our destination – means "hot".
Heading north from Ko Olina along the leeward Waianae coastline, a very different side to Oahu's glitzy facade is revealed. This working-class neighbourhood is home to the largest community of indigenous Hawaiians in the islands, its ramshackle towns of humble wooden dwellings a far cry from the high-rise glamour of Waikiki Beach. The businesses that line the highway cater exclusively to a local clientele, with nary an "aloha" souvenir in sight while, under palm trees shading a gold-sand beach, a shantytown of lean-tos provide shelter for the homeless.
Passing through the town of Nanakuli, La'akea tells the story of how its townfolk were once so ashamed of their poverty, they hung their heads whenever strangers approached. For this reason, they were thought to be deaf, giving the town its name, meaning "look deaf". Today, however, a new pride in Hawaiian culture is emerging and while few tourists venture to the leeward side of Oahu, it now represents the "real" Hawaii, a place rich in tradition and community spirit, if not wealth.
Typically, this is the dry side of the island, stark and arid, but after an unseasonal series of tropical storms, a flush of green clads the lava-black Waianae Range, the jagged remains of an ancient shield volcano that plummets into Makua Valley. We also pass the gaping Kaneana lava tube – where, according to legend, humankind was created from the womb of the earth goddess – before our arrival at pristine Yokohama Beach, which is deserted bar the odd fisherman braving the blustery conditions.
There are patches of blue sky and wan sunshine as we set off on the five-kilometre hike to Kaena Point. The former rail corridor is wide and flat but the downpours of the past few days have left it treacherous with oozing, sticky mud that clings to our shoes, as we pick a safe path past latte-coloured puddles.
"You're actually lucky," Kaena says, as we make our slippery progress. "This is great hiking weather. It's usually so hot we're soaked in sweat, though it's nice to cool off in the sea pools. We often see humpback whales and spinner dolphins as we walk, so keep your eye out."
A diving enthusiast, Kaena is also familiar with tiger sharks that prowl this coastline. "Each of these headlands has its own shark god that lives beneath it, guardian ancestor spirits who protect the families who swim here," he tells me.
"What if the shark attacks someone?" I can't help but ask.
"Well, I guess the gods aren't happy with that person," Kaena replies with a grin.
The one place Kaena doesn't like swimming, however, is at his namesake Kaena Point. Here, where a bank of bleached, bone-like coral juts into the ocean, two currents collide, creating a dangerous riptide that can sweep swimmers out to sea in seconds. But it's not the force of the water that deters Kaena, it's a more insidious presence. "I always feel like I'm being watched here," he says. "It's really creepy. You just can't deny the spirituality of this place."
Indeed, just as we walk through the dog-proof fence that protects the wildlife in Kaena Point Natural Area Reserve, the heavens open, soaking us to the bone. Emerging from the dunes, our party of six inexplicably splinters off, the chatter that featured during our hike immediately ceasing as each of us is drawn to the shoreline for a moment of silent contemplation. Even in the rain, there's something sacred about this point that makes us want to linger, to be alone with our thoughts.
The storm shows no sign of abating so La'akea invites us to take shelter in an upturned, grafittied concrete shell of the point's former lighthouse. Standing tall, face to the driving rain, he then chants a greeting, or oli, reminding us of our responsibility to the land and expressing love for Oahu's west side.
He then kneels and begins to beat a gourd, a hypnotic rhythm introducing Kaena's hula. Fit and handsome, Kaena is mesmerising to watch, his movements deep and fluid, muscles bulging with unexpected athleticism as he squats and rises, knees shimmying, sand flicking underfoot, hands a reflection of the ocean. This is not the slow, seductive wiggle we usually associate with staged hula performance but rather raw, emotional storytelling, a dance of warriors, a display of strength and grace.
Kaena's hula, I'm later told, is called "Kunihi Ka'ena Holo I Ka Malie" and tells the tale of Hi'iaka, the patron goddess of hula, who followed the same path along this coastline in search of the lover she shared with her sister, Pele. As she arrives at Kaena Point, she looks back along the west side of Oahu, describing the intense effects of the sun on the landscape as "a furnace heat like Kilauea".
Considering we are shivering and dripping wet, these sentiments almost seems ironic but the heat of the dance is palpable, and the rain and breeze a cool blessing, as described in the translation:
"A truce now, to toil and fatigue;
We plunge in the Lua-lei water
And feel the kind breeze of Kona.
The cooling breath of the goddess,
As it stirs the leaves of ilima."
FIVE THINGS TO DO ON OAHU'S WEST COAST
ATTEND A LUAU
Cheesy and touristy they may be, but every first-time visitor to Hawaii should experience a luau, a traditional feast and hula performance. One of the most popular is Paradise Cove Luau, next door to Four Seasons in Ko Olina, and featuring the talents of La'akea Perry's dance troupe. See paradisecove.com
FARM TO TABLE
Kahumana Organic Farm in Kailua not only grows its own delicious produce, but also on-sells fruit and vegetables grown by locals, part of its mission to care for vulnerable members of society. Farm tours are available, and its cafe serves a delicious lunch. See kahumana.org
SWIM IN A PERFECT LAGOON
A series of man-made lagoons, replicating the ancestral fish ponds of ancient Hawaii, provide sheltered swimming in picture-perfect conditions. The most beautiful is Looking Glass, next door to Four Seasons Oahu in front of the Lanikuhonua Cultural Institute - this, however, is a private beach and reservations are necessary to visit. See lanikuhonua.com/reservations/
MEET MOANA
Every little traveller to Hawaii wants to meet their favourite Disney princess, Moana. Do so at the Aulani Disney Resort, next door to Four Seasons in Ko Olina. See disneyaulani.com
ENJOY A LOMI-LOMI MASSAGE
Utilising long, fluid hand strokes, a traditional Hawaiian lomi-lomi massage is the ideal way to unwind, with massages at Four Seasons Naupaka Spa and Wellness Centre offered in an ocean front gazebo. See fourseasons.com
TRIP NOTES
The writer was a guest of Hawaii Tourism and Four Seasons Oahu.
MORE
FLY
Hawaiian Airlines and Qantas have daily flights to Honolulu. See hawaiianairlines.com.au; qantas.com.au
STAY
Rooms at Four Seasons Oahu start from $US589. See fourseasons.com
TOUR
An excursion to Kaena Point is part of Hawaii by Four Seasons offered at each of the Four Seasons Hawaii resorts. The #FSWayfinders program changes weekly with some experiences free while others incur a cost to cover materials.
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