This was published 14 years ago
Holiday Inn Resort Baruna Bali review: In the hands of the gods
Soul pursuits ... Envy, the sublime beachfront bar.Credit: Leonardo
Mark Chipperfield finds a Bali resort that looks and feels like a boutique hideaway, despite being part of a chain.
'Oh not the left shoulder again," I'm thinking to myself as Asih, my masseur, works on a knotted muscle under my shoulder blade. "How is my pressure?" she asks. "Oh lovely," I respond, wincing politely in agony. "Absolutely spot on, thank you." Asih stands barely 1 metres tall and has the forearms (but thankfully not the hands) of a Queensland builder's labourer. For 90 minutes she expertly pounds, prods and calms my aching muscles. The massage is so good my body tingles for two days.
Having a well-run private spa in your back garden is just one of the pleasant surprises to be found at the Holiday Inn Resort Baruna, Bali's newest and funkiest beachfront hotel.
The site, formerly occupied by the Bali Hai Resort, has been given an extensive and well-planned makeover by its parent company, Intercontinental Hotels Group. The result is more akin to a chilled-out boutique hideaway than a big-brand hotel.
Indeed, the pared-back contemporary interior design (lots of bold colours, reflecting pools and rattan lounges) and edgy beachfront vibe seem like a million miles from the typical Holiday Inn package; as are the intimate poolside gazebos, Ibiza-style soundtrack and black banners emblazoned with the words Gluttony, Desire, Passion, Wrath, Love and Lust.
Even the male reception staff now sport Rat Pack-style straw hats, subdued batik shirts and tailored shorts, giving the place a laid-back, beachy atmosphere.
"Holiday Inn is undergoing some major changes worldwide," says the hotel's general manager, Stephane Varoquier. "To some extent, this hotel is the guinea pig. I'm confident that a lot of the things we've tried here will be introduced across the brand."
One of the innovations at the Holiday Inn Resort Baruna Bali is the groovy Departure Lounge, which is handy for guests awaiting an afternoon or evening flight. And the hotel has unveiled two kids' clubs; one (Rascals) is a fully-staffed play area for small children, the other (Zone 12-18) a chill-out area, with internet access, game consoles and reading material for teenagers. Families travelling with young children will also appreciate the customised suites with screened-off kids' lounges.
Although clearly pitched at a cosmopolitan gen Y market (expect to hear French, German, Korean, Javanese and Aussie voices at the breakfast bar), this hotel will also satisfy the needs of older travellers or couples seeking a bit of romance by the Indian Ocean. The rooms are beautifully appointed with big, comfortable beds, Balinese fabrics, pale timbers and the latest entertainment systems, such as flat-screen televisions and iPod docking stations.
The hotel has also lifted the bar in the food and drinks department. Envy, the stylish beachfront eatery and bar, serves a small but well-executed menu of Italian standards (mostly pasta and pizza), plus seafood snacks and freshly prepared salads; the cocktail menu was designed by Sydney-based Bar Solutions.
Elsewhere, the slightly more formal Palms restaurant is open for lunch and dinner (look out for the regular theme nights, including Moroccan and surf and turf), while Flavaz is a nifty gelato bar serving ice-cream and coffee.
Where the 195-room hotel really shines is in its attention to detail and the fact that – shock, horror – the management here has clearly listened to customer feedback. A good example: the bar fridge in your room. Instead of being filled with expensive and unwanted drinks, the fridge can be stocked from the in-house convenience store.
"We know people resent paying high prices for wine, beer or soft drinks from the mini bar," Varoquier says. "So we thought, 'OK why not let people choose their own things?' – and the prices at the convenience store are exactly the same as at the local shops."
Over several days I notice other touches that make the Holiday Inn so interesting, including an affordable "big bag" laundry option, pillows embroidered with the words "soft" and "firm" and free bottled water.
Named in honour of the Balinese sea god, Dewa Baruna, the hotel draws much of its charm from its beachfront location and the backdrop of colourful, wooden fishing boats. Guests can enjoy perfect sea views from the elegant rattan lounges scattered around the garden or from the cool oasis of the large, family-friendly swimming pool (complete with swim-up bar).
Despite its proximity to downtown Kuta – you can walk there in 20 minutes – this part of Tuban Beach is surprisingly free of hawkers and is popular with local families. Those who do hunger for some night-time distraction will find plenty of small bars and restaurants nearby, plus the well-stocked Discovery Shopping Mall.
For longer excursions to, say, Ubud, Tanah Lot or Lake Batur, speak to the activities desk, which will arrange bookings. An all-day excursion to Ubud using a car and driver costs less than $50. Alternatively, surrender to Bali's tropical rhythms and find yourself a shady spot or book a massage session at the Tea Tree Spa. Just ask for Asih.
Mark Chipperfield was a guest of the Holiday Inn Resort Baruna Bali.
TRIP NOTES
WHERE Holiday Inn Resort Baruna Bali, (Jalan Wana Segara 33, Tuban, Bali 80361), is on the water at Tuban Beach, a 10-minute drive from Denpasar airport. Phone +62 361 755 577, see bali.holidayinn.com.
HOW MUCH Doubles from $124 a night. Ask for a top-floor room, preferably with an ocean view. For total indulgence and privacy, book a spacious Ajana Suite for $286 a night.
TOP MARKS Gracious and attentive service is the hallmark of this hotel — and the in-house convenience store is a winner.
BLACK MARK The buffet breakfast cleverly includes a fresh juice bar. Sadly, service was so slow many guests simply gave up and went empty-handed.
DON'T MISS A massage, facial, hand or foot treatment at Tea Tree Spa. Private garden bales are available for outdoor sessions.
For advice on travel to Indonesia, see smartraveller.gov.au.
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