Hope amid the remnants of war

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This was published 11 years ago

Hope amid the remnants of war

A story to tell ... battle scars remain in Vukovar.

A story to tell ... battle scars remain in Vukovar.Credit: Alamy

"I had never even heard of Vukovar before our visit but I often find myself thinking about that scarred little town.

"The bombed-out buildings, pock-marked walls and vacant blocks still vividly recall the years of the Homeland War (otherwise known as the Croatian War of Independence) of the 1990s.

"Once upon a time, Vukovar was an elegant and cultured city; thanks to agriculture and industry it was a wealthy centre and was popular with tourists.

Kay Wood's husband Barry shops in the market.

Kay Wood's husband Barry shops in the market.Credit: Kay Wood

"The passion of our local uni-student guide, Ivan, made the more recent history come alive for us on our excursion.

"After years of fighting and destruction, Vukovar finally became part of Croatia in 1998.

"However, the devastation was almost complete and not all of the city's citizens have returned since those terrible days.

"We meandered along the narrow roads past cottages with geraniums bright against the stonework and saw an old ruined hotel reflected in the glass facade of a new building.

"It is still a pretty and vibrant town, even though the population is less than half what it was before the war.

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"The shopping mall is in ruins but many buildings have been restored and there are several shops as well as a four-star hotel.

"The 'Black Widow' building contains apartments constructed for war widows and is so-called because of the dark glass facade.

"There are ruins of a castle by the river and there is a gleaming white monument, nine metres high, on the waterfront, dedicated to those who died.

"The old town is located on the River Danube, which, despite its serene and picturesque scenery, hides deceptively strong currents.

"It is apparently a test of your bravery and swimming ability if you can swim from bank to bank across the river, but no one in our group was prepared to try it.

"It was a fascinating visit. It's one thing to watch the nightly news reports of distant wars but quite another to see the results firsthand.

"As we left, we came upon two young boys happily playing on a slippery dip and we felt that there is hope for the future there, with a new generation growing up.

"The town is not only a powerful anti-war statement but also cause for optimism."

Value for money

All shore excursions were included in Kay's cruise fare and she felt they added great value.

"At each stop we not only had our cruise director making sure everything went smoothly but also local guides," she says. "We walked about in small groups so there was no rush and there was the opportunity to ask questions."

WHO Kay Wood, of Glenning Valley on the NSW central coast, on her second cruise.
WHAT Learning about Croatia's "Homeland War", which was fought from 1991 to 1995.
WHERE Via the port of Vukovar, a small river city in eastern Croatia.
THE SHIP Kay travelled with her husband Barry on a 14-day cruise of the Danube River, from Budapest to Istanbul. The cruise was on APT's MS AmaCello (aptouring.com.au).

As told to Jane E. Fraser
Have you done an interesting shore excursion? Drop us a line at travelshd@fairfaxmedia.com.au

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