By Daniel Scott
THE LOCATION
Opened in October 2016 in the midst of Kyoto's Higashiyama district, surrounded by historic temples and shrines, Japan's second Four Seasons hotel (after the Tokyo Marunouchi property) occupies its own peaceful enclave, at the end of a bamboo-lined driveway and backed by an 800-year-old pond garden.
Within a five-minute stroll of the hotel are the Myoho-In and Sanjusangendo temples, the former presided over by priests of imperial descent and the latter distinguished by 1001 intricate representations of the Goddess of Mercy, Kannon. The medieval Gion district, with its teahouses and its elusive geishas, is a half-hour walk away, as is central Kyoto with its Kabuki theatres and busy shops. The Four Seasons manages to feel slightly apart from Kyoto while being a part of the city and all attractions are easily reached by cab or public transport.
THE SPACE
The Four Seasons fuses Kyoto's heritage with a sleek, modern Japanese design. First impressions are of a welcoming, airy foyer that is grand without being overbearing, dominated by beige marble flooring and space-defining vertical and horizontal cypress wood beams. A long reception desk stands off to the left and a seating area to the right and shoji paper lanterns at floor level and seasonal flower arrangements add warmth. But nothing distracts from the view onto the 12th century gardens, through nine-metre-high windows, at the far end of the lobby. Downstairs, other seating areas and The Brasserie, the hotel's Asian-European fusion restaurant, with its waterside outdoor deck, are even closer to the relaxing greenery. Once owned by an affluent Samurai dynasty, the garden features a central pond, full of large koi, fringed by maple and cherry-blossom trees and a traditional tea-house reached via ornamental stone bridges. Back inside the hotel, a 20-metre indoor pool lies below ground alongside a sumptuous spa, with seven treatment rooms offering an array of treatments based on Japanese rituals.
THE ROOM
The 123 rooms echo the capacious feel of the communal areas, a real boon in Japan, where hotel guests are often squeezed into minimalist spaces. They also continue the modern meets traditional Japanese theme with lots of technology such as a bedside Bose Bluetooth device and a Tablet for accessing information alongside hand-painted shoji panels and locally made fusuma screens. My Deluxe King Sized suite has splashes of imperial purple and mauve in the carpet and cushions, dark wooden floors and plenty of marble surfaces. The bathroom is also expansive, with a deep tub and a separate monsoon shower beside twin handbasins. Most rooms overlook the gardens and many the nearby Myoho-In temple, with larger suites including balconies.
THE FOOD
Breakfast at The Brasserie is an edible work of art, with colourful fruits and freshly squeezed juices, a line-up of pastries, meats – including a whole hock of ham – smoked salmon and cheese and pots of hot Japanese favourites set against a mesmerising mushroom mural. Any meal here is complemented by the proximity of the pond garden but dining in the warmer months on the terrace is especially memorable. For sheer exclusivity, invest in one of the 10 spaces available each seating at Sushi Wakon, with delicacies like Hokkaido scallops and golden snapper prepared by Michelin-starred chef Red Masuda and served at an eight-metre-long cypress wood counter.
STEPPING OUT
Pick your temple or shrine from the many surrounding, including the nearest, Sanjusangendo, and Yogen-in. Also very close is Kyoto National Museum, housing one of Japan's most significant collections of archaeological relics, ceramics and Edo period artworks. Beyond that lies the Kamogawa river, its banks perfect for an evening walk or cycle to the atmospheric Gion district and downtown Kyoto. Behind the hotel, in the Higashiyama hills, is the World Heritage listed Kiyomizu-dera Temple, founded around 780 and built without a single nail, which has panoramic views over the city.
HIGHLIGHTS
The sense of space and tranquility in a country where both are at a premium, and the genuinely attentive staff. The wellbeing facilities, particularly the sublimely appointed spa, where delicious treatments are deftly delivered by a team of talented therapists.
LOWLIGHTS
There is the potential to feel slightly removed from the former Imperial city, as if you were residing in an embassy compound, and the room price puts the hotel beyond many.
ESSENTIALS
445-3, Myohoin Maekawa-cho, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto, 605-0932, Japan. Phone +81 75 541 8288. Deluxe Garden View rooms are priced from JPY 90,000 ($1044) a night, plus 8 per cent tax and 13 per cent service charge. fourseasons.com.
The writer was a guest of Four Seasons Kyoto
Sign up for the Traveller Deals newsletter
Get exclusive travel deals delivered straight to your inbox. Sign up now.