How to holiday in luxury at the Italian Lakes

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This was published 8 years ago

How to holiday in luxury at the Italian Lakes

By Denise Gadd

George Clooney's villa Oleandra  is in  Bellagio, on the shores of  Lake Como.

George Clooney's villa Oleandra is in Bellagio, on the shores of Lake Como.

The Italian Lakes are the jewel in Italy's crown where five major lakes meet the Swiss Alps to reveal snow-capped mountains, picturesque villages, glamorous hotels, luxury villas and elegant palazzos.

Inspirations for writers, painters and poets the lakes of Lombardy, which were formed in the Ice Age, have lured the rich and famous to their shores since Roman times. Lake Como is the third-largest lake in the region after Lake Garda and Lake Maggiore and is also one of the deepest in Europe at more than 200 metres below sea level.

Popular for its old-world elegance and new world luxury, the charming village of Bellagio, or the "Pearl of the Lake", lies at the intersection of the three branches of the Y-shaped lake and is a tourist hot spot.

Isola Bella on Lake Maggiore.

Isola Bella on Lake Maggiore.

As well as its lakeside vistas and luxury villas Bellagio has a waterfront promenade of cafes and shops and steep cobbled lanes lined with boutique hotels, gift shops and restaurants. It is also home to the actor George Clooney who owns two neighbouring villas. Since his marriage last year to high-profile human rights lawyer, Amal Ramzi Alamuddin, the authorities have created an exclusion zone around the properties with people being warned they'll incur a $600 fine if they transgress.

Ferries operate to different islands and villages including a service from Bellagio to the historic town of Como. There's also a bus service along a very windy road – a bit problematic if you get motion sickness, but worth it for the panoramic views of the lake and surrounding countryside.

Best known for its silk production since the 16th century, Como is also a diverse mix of top-end boutiques, beauty salons, restaurants and cafes, many of them located around the piazza in the centre of town. The upmarket department chain, Coin, has a store in Como with an excellent cafe on the fifth floor offering panoramic views of the area.

Beautiful Lake Como is the third largest of the Italian lakes.

Beautiful Lake Como is the third largest of the Italian lakes.

Como also has a Duomo with Gothic and Renaissance architecture, a 10th-century cathedral and Porta Vittoria, a 900-year-old gateway. For an overall view of the town and environs take the funicular to the top of the hill above Como. If you're into soccer, the Como football team has a stadium close to the lake so you might catch a match. A local market operates regularly just off the piazza. Como's famous silk factories offer great bargains and there is an Armani outlet for devotees of the famous Italian designer.

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Only 15 minutes from Bellagio is the lesser known village of Varenna. But what it lacks in size Varenna makes up for in charm with a romantic waterfront promenade, a tiny harbour, heritage-listed houses, narrow stepped lanes, cafes and shops.

Menaggio on the western shore of Lake Como is also a popular holiday destination from where you can travel to Lake Lugano or embark on mountain hikes.

Many of tourist hotspot  Bellagio's charming streets are narrow and cobbled.

Many of tourist hotspot Bellagio's charming streets are narrow and cobbled.

While the lakes and villages are popular attractions, the palatial palazzos around the lake and on the Borromean islands are a must see, especially if you're into gardens.

From Como Isola Bella, or "beautiful island", is a coach and boat trip to one of the most spectacular Borromean Islands in Lake Maggiore. The baroque palazzo is perched high on a cliff and surrounded by a 17th century formal garden with terraces, parterres, topiary, statues and albino peacocks wandering around manicured lawns.

Topiary and sculpted hedges dominate many of the gardens including a 500-year-old evergreen oak, clipped to perfection, standing triumphant on the clifftop at Villa del Balbianello. Lying on a promontory the villa was the final home of the explorer and mountaineer Guido Monzino and today houses a museum devoted to his work including equipment he used for the first Italian expedition in 1973 to Mount Everest. It has also been used for film shoots including Casino Royale.

Isola Madre is the largest of the Borromean Islands and home to an elegant baroque villa surrounded by grand botanic gardens. Villa Carlotta, an 18th century palazzo has five hectares of landscaped gardens and Italian parterres with sweeping views of the Alps and Lake Como. Villa Melzi is on the opposite side of the lake and only a short walk into Bellagio. A neo-classical house the gardens are long and narrow and emulate the traditional English style of landscaping.

Also pay a visit to Villa d'Este, a 16th-century former princely residence, which was transformed into a luxury hotel in 1873. On the edge of Lake Como at Cernobbio it has hosted many celebrities from Evita Peron to Clark Gable and the exiled Duke of Windsor and his wife, Wallis Simpson. As well as its opulent interior, glorious gardens and myriad water features it offers fine dining, so treat yourself.

Back to George Clooney. I told the driver who took me to Milan that everyone kept asking me if I'd spotted the gorgeous George on my travels. The driver replied: "I drive for him often. He's not much. He's quite short." So there you have it girls. George Clooney is not much!

WHERE TO STAY

Palace Hotel (new wing) Lake Como, Lungo Lario Trieste, 16, 22100 Como

Hotel Bellagio, Salita Grandi, 6 - 22021 Bellagio

WHERE TO EAT

Villa d'Este Via Regina, 40 22012 Cernobbio (Lake Como)

Ristorante Sociale, Via Rodari, Como

HOW TO GET THERE

Melbourne to Milan Etihad $1959

Milan to Lake Como

Train from Stazione Centrale and Stazione Portal (takes 40 minutes)

Bus, hire car or private driver.

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