India Palace houseboat review, Srinagar, Kashmir, India

We’re sorry, this feature is currently unavailable. We’re working to restore it. Please try again later.

Advertisement

This was published 5 years ago

India Palace houseboat review, Srinagar, Kashmir, India

By Craig Tansley
The India Palace sits atop Nagin Lake.

The India Palace sits atop Nagin Lake.

THE LOCATION

On a freshwater lake within Srinagar, the capital of the Indian state of Kashmir. The Australian Government warns against travelling to Kashmir, however there haven't been any acts of violence against foreign tourists in 23 years. The houseboat is seven kilometres from Srinagar's centre, and 17 kilometres from the airport.

THE SPACE

Houseboats have been the preferred accommodation option in Kashmir since colonial times, when Brits lived on them as a way around the state's laws banning foreign ownership. Then the stoners of the '60 and '70s came here to turn on, tune in, drop out when Kashmir was a revered stop on the hippie trail. It's not hard to see the attraction, relax on the houseboat's shaded roof-top looking out across Nagin Lake to the Himalayas, as golden eagles circle above. Downstairs, relax in the regal surroundings (think: fine lace curtains and tablecloths, walnut bureaus and glass chandeliers).

THE ROOM

There are five bedrooms aboard – four are a standard size, with a much larger master bedroom at the boat's stern. All rooms come with en suite bathrooms with hot water (not something you'll get in too many places across Kashmir), a bath, and exquisite antique furnishings, including a four-poster bed in the master suite. Blue kingfishers feed just outside your bedroom window.

THE FOOD

Farouk, the butler, is in charge of that. He's on call 24 hours a day, so midnight snacks are always an option. Meals are of the traditional Kashmiri variety, prepared by a local chef. Kashmir is famous for its mutton dishes – there are more than 30 varieties of mutton dishes in Kashmiri food, so expect to be served mutton rogan josh, Kashmiri-style mutton ribs and aab gosht (mutton with milk and cardamom). Vegetarians are also well catered for. Meals are served at an enormous vintage teak dining table.

STEPPING OUT

Advertisement

Put away your dancing shoes, Kashmir is an Islamic state with few night-time entertainment options. Alcohol is served, but only at hotels and restaurants popular with foreign tourists (tough travel warnings in recent years have reduced the number of foreigners staying, but numbers are on the rise). However, it's easy to waste entire evenings under the stars here by the lake, the outline of the Himalayas visible under moonlight. During the day, Srinagar is a city of stunning Moghul gardens, and you should take a shikara (boat) ride across the lake to the city's floating markets.

THE VERDICT

While there are fancier digs within old palaces in Kashmir's graceful capital, nothing cocoons you in Srinagar's famously green surroundings quite like a houseboat. With merchants coming right to your door, you might never leave home.

ESSENTIALS

Room prices start from $58, or hire the boat from $250. India Palace, Nagin Lake, Srinagar, Kashmir. Book through srinagarhotels.co.in/india-palace-houseboat-srinagar.html, or book a Kashmir tour which includes time on India Palace, see worldexpeditions.com

HIGHLIGHT

Mix a gin and tonic and retreat to the top deck at sunset as the colours fade out over Srinagar's Pir Panjal Ranges and thousands of voices from the city's mosques reverberate across Nagin Lake.

LOWLIGHT

So many Islamic destinations are famous for their stunning coffee houses. Unfortunately, Srinagar has none of these, locals drink their coffee in the sanctity of their homes.

Craig Tansley was a guest of World Expeditions.

Sign up for the Traveller Deals newsletter

Get exclusive travel deals delivered straight to your inbox. Sign up now.

Most viewed on Traveller

Loading