A few expert tips will help you enjoy this challenging but magical country, writes Nina Karnikowski.
Rajasthan's capital is a pink, populous, mesmerising metropolis, steeped in a rich history.
Through the smoky haze I can see the world's most famous monument. And there are no tourists around.
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It began with an announcement aboard my chartered luxury train between Delhi and Mumbai.
Jodhpur's chaotic markets and stunning Meherangarh Fort are now joined by trendy cafes and beautifully restored buildings.
A visit leaves an impenetrable mark, for this is a country of brilliant colour and culture; from the blue city of Jodhpur, the golden temple of Amritsar to the saris left to dry in the breeze. From the magnificent Taj Mahal, the ghats of Varanasi, its southern tea plantations and backwaters, to its singular festivals and the far mountains of Ladakh, this is a country that has much to offer intrepid travellers.