Istanbul, Turkey: The other place Gallipoli pilgrims must see

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This was published 8 years ago

Istanbul, Turkey: The other place Gallipoli pilgrims must see

By Lee Tulloch
Busy bars and cafes in the interior courtyard of an Ottoman-era building in Istanbul.

Busy bars and cafes in the interior courtyard of an Ottoman-era building in Istanbul.Credit: iStock

I imagine most of the Australians in Turkey right now for the 100th anniversary of the 1915 Anzac landing in Gallipoli will be passing through Istanbul at some point in their journey. I envy them. I jump at any chance to visit the intoxicating city that bridges Europe and Asia. And you should too, if you haven't already.

Istanbul's history, culture and religion are layered like the flaky pastry in the delicious baklava found in its bakeries, so rich you risk indigestion. Its traffic, architecture and spirit is chaotic, but if you go with the flow, this makes it one of the most exciting places in the world. I'm sure my heart has an extra beat every minute whenever I'm there.

If you're there now or visiting soon, here are a few tips for getting the best out of the city.

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Don't think you need to stay near the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace or Grand Bazaar. These districts are packed with tourists, so you don't always get an authentic experience. There are many wonderful small hotels in arty neighbourhoods such as Beyoglu and Cihangir or Nisantasi, which is the Toorak or Double Bay of the city.

Public transport is very good, especially the trams and trains. The Istanbulkart can be bought at specially marked kiosks at major transportation hubs for 6 TL (Turkish lira) and then recharged whenever needed. If you do end up taking a taxi and getting stuck, at least the fares are extremely cheap by Australian standards, although you do need to watch your change. And I find the trains fast, clean and safe.

But there's nothing quite like the ferries. The two-hour sightseeing ferry ride up and down the Bosphorus coast may be packed with tourists but it is a fantastic experience and a great introduction to the city. It's the best way to see the extraordinary mansions that line the banks of the sea and get a glimpse of the many different styles of architecture that make Istanbul so fascinating. Ferries leave frequently from Eminonu Pier on the Sultanahmet side of the Galata Bridge and the trip costs a bargain $5.90 a person.

The intoxicating city that bridges Europe and Asia: Istanbul.

The intoxicating city that bridges Europe and Asia: Istanbul.Credit: AFP

Do try to experience a local ferry or two as well; it's a worthwhile trip to take the ferry to the markets at Kadikoy on the Asian side of the city. I did this on a cold, wet day, but inside the ferry it was warm and steamy and there are men selling hot tea and snacks.

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Take a food tour. Istanbul is, in my opinion, the most wonderful culinary city in the world and to discover the best of it, you need a guide to take you through the different Istanbul neighbourhoods and markets, learning about the best local cuisine on offer, in places you'd never find yourself. The worst-looking dives often have the best food. Go with a healthy appetite because the locals love giving you free samples. Look for a tour that takes small groups – we found Culinary Backstreets very good. And don't miss trying one of the fresh fish sandwiches cooked on the banks of the Golden Horn, washed down with hot, sweet tea.

Don't be intimidated by the Grand Bazaar. You may need to go a couple of times – once to get your bearings and scope out what's on offer and a second time to do business. There's lots of junk there but generally the things that are Turkish, from carpets to hammam towels, are very good buys. It's not open on Sundays.

Traditional Turkish tea in Istanbul.

Traditional Turkish tea in Istanbul.Credit: Getty Images

Similarly, don't be put off seeing the famous monuments because of the crowds. I was horrified to see the lines of hundreds of people that snaked outside the Hagia Sophia during the day, but we visited on Sunday and got there 20 minutes before the gates opened at 9am – and had the place to ourselves and a only couple of dozen other people for the first half hour.

There are many less famous museums that are worth visiting when the crowds are too intense at the Topkapi. The Archaeology Museum nearby has a lovely cafe set among antique sculptures and I'm a huge fan of The Museum of Innocence, Nobel Prize-winning author Orhan Pamuk's small museum built to illustrate his novel by the same name. You don't need to have read the book to appreciate the delightful collection of 20th-century ephemera.

Finally – get fit before you go. Istanbul has some very challenging hills.

Food stall in Istanbul.

Food stall in Istanbul.Credit: Joe Armao

The writer was a guest of Culinary Backstreets.

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