Les Rencontres d'Arles, Provence, France: The world's biggest photography festival

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This was published 7 years ago

Les Rencontres d'Arles, Provence, France: The world's biggest photography festival

By Kristie Kellahan
The opening of the 2016 Les Rencontres d'Arles.

The opening of the 2016 Les Rencontres d'Arles. Credit: Claire Debost

Madame is clearly frazzled. Fielding calls and responding to a seemingly endless line of guests at the hotel reception desk, she is explaining to a caller from the United States that the Grand Hotel Nord-Pinus Arles​ is absolutely, categorically, waiting-list full, booked solid for the next month.

We have arrived in Arles on the eve of one of the biggest international photography festivals in the world: Les Rencontres d'Arles. The Grand Hotel Nord-Pinus, a charmingly quirky 1920s boutique property in the square known as Place du Forum, is popular year-round, and never more so than summertime when the festival is in full swing. Fashion designer Christian Lacroix, a native Arlesian, has described the hotel as "the temple of the quintessential summer holiday".

The Provencal town of Arles is normally home to more than 50,000 residents. During the festival months of July, August and September, when more than 100 artists exhibit thousands of photographs in 20 venues around town, the population swells to accommodate close to 100,000 ticket-holders.

States of Grace. Showing at the 2016 Les Rencontres d'Arles.

States of Grace. Showing at the 2016 Les Rencontres d'Arles.Credit: Laurent Fievet

Under the guidance of festival director Sam Stourdze​, the 2016 Rencontres celebrates and explores diverse themes of street photography, Africa Pop and the influence of Nollywood (Nigeria's growing movie industry), and the history of the Westerns of the Camargue region. Notable battlefields in After the War and queer life in the Sincerely Queer exhibition are also chronicled.

In 12th-century churches, medieval cloisters, galleries, squares and industrial buildings – many venues only open during the festival – photographers and fans from around the world flock to screenings, exhibitions, conversations and rosé-fuelled soirees. One pass grants access to all venues, making this truly a citywide event.

A special children's zone is set up for young festival-goers to make their own art, and workshops for enthusiasts of all skill levels explore the art and technique of photography. Professional photographers say they come to Arles during Rencontres as much for the inspiration as for the prizes and prestige.

Regardez-moi! 1962. Showing at the Les Rencontres d'Arles.

Regardez-moi! 1962. Showing at the Les Rencontres d'Arles.Credit: Malick Sidib

Launched in 1970 by French writer Michael Tournier​, photographer Lucien Clergue​ and curator Jean-Maurice Rouquette​, the Rencontres celebrates its 47th edition this year. The 2016 festival is dedicated to Tournier, who died in January. In 1977 he said, "This little town was destined to become the capital of photography. First, of course, there's the light, the transparency of Provencal air. Then there's the architecture, the arena and what goes on there. And obviously, there's the people."

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He was right about the light and air. Vincent Van Gogh was so inspired by the colours of Provence, he stayed for more than a year towards the end of the 19th century, one of the most prolific periods of his artistic career, albeit one of his most personally chaotic chapters. He produced more than 300 paintings and drawings during this time, including depictions of the 2000-year-old Roman arena in Arles that Tournier referred to.

In high summer, the sun sets past 9pm, gradually releasing the sky to depths of inky blue. Wander down to the waterfront late on a summer's eve, when the river twinkles with the reflected light of a thousand stars, and there is the view Van Gogh immortalised in Starry Night over the Rhone.

Showing at the festival: A woman with her five children walks back through cold swamps at dusk to her hiding place after receiving food. Kok Island, South Sudan, 2015.

Showing at the festival: A woman with her five children walks back through cold swamps at dusk to her hiding place after receiving food. Kok Island, South Sudan, 2015. Credit: Fondation Ortiz

Belgian photographer Sanne de Wilde says Arles is "the place to be" in Europe each July. She has exhibited for the past three years at the Rencontres and this year was a finalist with her new work, The Island of the Colorblind.

"From different continents, photo-people find each other in Arles, a beautiful city, big enough to get lost for the night, small enough to keep bumping into each other," she says. "Exhibitions are scattered around the centre and can be found in inspiring places such as an abandoned train station.

"I fell in love the first time I came and have been coming every summer since then. There is definitely magic in the air in Arles."

September 11 plane crash snapshots. The photographs have been refashioned using photomosaic freeware, linked to Google's Image Search function. Showing at Les Rencontres d'Arles.

September 11 plane crash snapshots. The photographs have been refashioned using photomosaic freeware, linked to Google's Image Search function. Showing at Les Rencontres d'Arles.Credit: Joan Fontcuberta

TRIP NOTES

MORE INFORMATION

rencontres-arles.com, arlestourisme.com/en

GETTING THERE

Arles is in the south-east of France and can be reached by train (see sncf.com or raileurope.com.au for tickets). The journey takes around 45 minutes from Marseille, or around four hours by TGV train from Paris. Qantas has regular flights from Sydney and Melbourne to Paris (Charles de Gaulle). See qantas.com.au

STAYING THERE

Grand Hotel Nord-Pinus Arles, a chic 1920s boutique hotel in the Place du Forum, is well located for access to the festival's venues. During the festival, double rooms are €230 ($340) a night; in low season they are €190.

See nord-pinus.com

VISITING THERE

The Rencontres d'Arles photography festival is held throughout the city of Arles annually in July, August and September. This year, the festival wraps up on September 25. Visitors may purchase an All Exhibitions Pass (€37) or a Day Pass (€30) at rencontres-arles.com or at festival kiosks throughout the city. Weekend photography workshops are offered year-round.

Kristie Kellahan travelled as a guest of Back-Roads Touring.

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