Nelson, Victoria: Travel guide and things to do

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Nelson, Victoria: Travel guide and things to do

Nelson, VIC

Nelson, VICCredit: Robert Blackburn/Rob Blackburn

Nelson is a small, picturesque fishing and holiday township of about 350 people located at the mouth of the Glenelg River in the south-western corner of Victoria. It is 433 km west of Melbourne and a couple of kilometres from the South Australian border. There is a pub, a general store, and a couple of motels, guesthouses and caravan parks.

Nelson is surrounded by scenic countryside, the value of which has been recognised through the declaration of Lower Glenelg National Park, which extends eastwards along the Glenelg River, and Discovery Bay National Park which stretches south-east along the coastline to Cape Bridgewater. Despite the beauty of the area, its relative remoteness means that it has undergone little commercialisation.

The estuary, river, rock ledges and beaches are noted for the fishing opportunities they afford and the tidal estuary has become a haven for waterbirds. River cruising and swimming are other obvious attractions.

Major Mitchell explored the area during his Australia Felix expedition of 1836. His party were the first Europeans to investigate the Glenelg River. A punt service carried people across the river at the townsite from 1849.

Nelson was named after the survey ship, the Lady Nelson, which was used by Lieutenant Grant to explore the southern coastline at the very start of the 19th century. It was later affected by border disputes between NSW and South Australia which caused delays in the final settlement of the surveys in 1913.

Things to see

Tourist Information
There is no information centre at Nelson but the Portland Maritime Discovery and Visitors' Centre is well-equipped to deal with any questions on that subject. It is open from 9.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. daily, tel: (03) 5523 2671 or free-call (1800) 035 567. The centre can provide details about boat and canoe hire services at Portland. Maps are available concerning the Historic Shipwrecks Trail which follows a series of signposts around the coastline to wreckage sites.

River Exploration
Boats and canoes can be hired at Nelson (see under 'Tourist Information' above). There are good launching facilities and public wharves just below the bridge which is located well in from the beach. The bar across the river mouth renders access to the sea dangerous. For those who prefer a leisurely cruise the Nelson Endeavour (tel: 08 8738 4191) and Glenelg River Cruises (tel: 08 8738 4192) offer a 3.5-hour trek to the Princess Margaret Rose Caves. All cruises depart at 1.00 p.m. but days of operation vary seasonally from once or twice a week to an almost daily service. It is therefore best to check in advance.

Beaches
To access Nelson Beach take the signposted turnoff from the Princes Highway then turn again into Beach Rd and follow it to the car park. A track leads through the sand dunes to the ocean beach, although it is considered dangerous for swimmers. For those who enjoy a lengthy beach walk, White Sands is 7 km east along the coast. There is a small campsite for walkers.

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Beach Rd continues on past the ocean beach to another sandy spot beside the estuary.

Fishing
Surf and rock fishing are popular in the area and the Glenelg River has giant mulloway, bass, southern black bream, yellow eye mullet and salmon. There are boat and equipment hire services in Nelson (see under 'Tourist Information' above).

Lower Glenelg National Park
Lower Glenelg National Park (27 300 ha) is located to the north and north-east of Nelson and just to the north of Discovery Bay. It is centred upon the tranquil 470-km Glenelg River which starts in the Grampians and flows through to the estuary at Nelson. The river was named by surveyor-general Thomas Mitchell in 1836 during his Australia Felix expedition.

The main attractions are the river itself, the surrounding forest, the Princess Margaret Rose Caves and a spectacular 15-km limestone river gorge with cliffs sometimes 50 metres in height. The limestone was formed millions of years ago from seashell debris at the bottom of a shallow sea. The water level later dropped and the river carved out the gorge.

Visitors to the park can partake of power-boating, water skiing, fishing, scenic drives, walking, picnicking, camping and nature studies.

Not surprisingly it is also a popular spot for canoeing which is the ideal way to explore the river from Nelson all the way through to Dartmoor (about 70 km). There are no rapids. Canoes are available for hire at Nelson (see under 'Tourist Information' above). Ten special canoeists' campsites are located en route although only Moleside, Pines and Dartmoor are accessible by vehicle. However, there are many other campsites which are not designed specifically for canoeists and which are accessible by vehicle. The main access roads to the campsites, picnic areas and boat-launching ramps on the southern bank are the Nelson-Portland Rd and the Nelson-Winnap Rd. The latter branches off the former at a point 15 km east of Nelson. Both are sealed though the side roads out to the riverside camps are not. The Wanwin Rd, which runs off the Princes Highway, is a good unsealed track which runs approximately parallel the northern shore. It provides access to facilities on that side of the river. The main caravan site is Pritchard's (off the Nelson-Winnap Rd). A brochure is available with a map outlining the whereabouts of the sites and facilities. Campers must book in advance, tel: (08) 8738 4051.

There are two water skiing and power-boating zones called Taylor's Straight and Sandy Waterholes. Transit channels are marked by signs and buoys to provide passage for slower boats. Parks Victoria supplies a 'Canoeing and Power Boating Guide', tel: 131 963.

The park contains over 700 plant species in forest, swamp, river, dune and cliff habitats. It represents an unusual mingling of eastern and Western Australian types. Fauna includes platypuses, echidnae, koalas, kangaroos, water rats, wallabies, possums, potoroos, gliders and a rare colony of wombats which were once plentiful in south-western Victoria.

To access the Princess Margaret Rose Caves follow the Nelson-Mount Gambier Rd for a couple of kilometres to the border then take the signposted right onto a good unsealed 12-km road which leads through pine forests to the caves. Another means of access from Nelson is via a river cruise service. All cruises depart at 1.00 p.m. but days of operation vary seasonally from once or twice a week to an almost daily service. It is therefore best to check in advance.

Discovery Bay Coastal Park
Discovery Bay Coastal Park (8590 ha) constitutes an outstanding sweep of coastline which extends eastwards for 50 km to Cape Bridgewater, taking in vast expanses of rolling white sand dunes, sweeping beaches, Aboriginal middens, tranquil lakes and rugged rock formations. There are grey kangaroos, red-necked wallabies and over 140 bird species. Coastal, swamp and heath vegetation is prolific. The park is accessed off the Nelson-Portland Road or via the Great South Walk (see subsequent entry), tel: (03) 5523 1180. Camping is available at Swan Lake and Lake Monibeong. There are boat-launching ramps in the park and surf fishing opportunities. The main attractions are at Cape Bridgewater (see entry onPortland). The bay was named by Major Mitchell in 1836.

The Great South Walk
The Great South Walk constitutes more than 250 km of circular walking track which starts and finishes at Portland. Constructed by community groups it initially heads north through farmland, veering westwards through native forests and the Lower Glenelg National Park, following the southern bank of the Glenelg River to its mouth near Nelson, then returning eastwards along the coastline through Discovery Bay, with optional detours past Lake Monibeong and to Mt Richmond, along Descartes Bay and around Cape Bridgewater, past The Springs, the Petrified Forest, the seal colony, Bridgwater Bay, Cape Nelson, Point Danger and back to Portland. Sections are accessible by car to allow shorter day or weekend walks. The best times are from October to December or late March to early June. A detailed brochure is available from Parks Victoria offices. There are canoeing and camping spots.

A Book About The Great Ocean Road

The best book about the Great Ocean Road is the remarkably cheap ($19.95 for a full colour hardback) book by Port Campbell photographer, Rodney Hyett. It is 96 pages long and has everything you could possibly want - great photographs, maps of the area, a potted history of the area, details about national parks and visitor information centres, accommodation, walking tracks, even details of the region's eight lighthouses and succinct (not as detailed as this website) pieces of information about all the major destinations from Queenscliff to Cape Bayswater. If you are planning to travel the Great Ocean Road and explore the totality of its attractions this is a small masterpiece of publishing and a great travel guide. It is available from many shops along the way and can be ordered from Port Campbell Shopping athttp://www.portcampbellshopping.com.au

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