Located only 124 km south of Melbourne, Newhaven is a small picturesque fishing village with a jetty, a boat ramp and a marina. Originally known as Woody Point, it is the major access point for those visiting Phillip Island as it lies directly across the bridge which joins the island and the mainland at San Remo. It is thus a popular day trip from Melbourne and, as such, it is well-equipped to supply the visitor with accommodation, restaurants and other facilities and attractions.
It is thought that, in pre-colonial times, Phillip Island was occupied by the Bunurong people. That colonial era was prefigured in January 1798 when George Bass entered Westernport on a voyage of exploration inspired by the survivors of the Sydney Cove (see entry on Wollongong). He named it Western Port (now written Westernport) as it was, at the time, as it was, at the time, the most westerly known harbour on the coast. Bass returned in October 1798 with Matthew Flinders. The two men were travelling down the mainland coast on board the 25-ton sloop Norfolk on a voyage intended to confirm their suspicion that a strait existed between the mainland and Van Diemen's Land (i.e., Tasmania). They anchored off what is now the settlement of Rhyll on the eastern side of Phillip Island in October 1798. Bass thought that Cape Woolamai resembled the head of a snapper and so the island became known as Snapper Island.
Lieutenant James Grant made the first known passage through Bass Strait from the west in 1800. Governor King sent him back to the area the following year. During that voyage he constructed a simple cottage on Churchill Island and planted corn and wheat with seeds supplied by his friend John Churchill, after whom he named the island. This was the first European settlement in what is now Victoria. Consequently, Phillip Island became known, for a time, as Grant's Island, but its present name was later adopted in honour of Governor Phillip.
In 1802 Nicholas Baudin, the French explorer, sailed past, and named, French Island. In 1826 another French vessel, under Dumont d'Urville, examined Westernport, arousing apprehensions about French colonisation of the southern coastline. Coupled with this was the favourable report of the Westernport district made by explorers Hamilton Hume and William Hovell who believed that their 1824 overland journey from NSW had terminated at Westernport. Unfortunately they were mistaken, having actually completed their trek further west at Port Phillip. On the basis of their favourable comments Governor Darling decided to forestall any prospective French plans by establishing a military and agricultural settlement at Westernport. Captain Wright was dispatched with troops, 21 convicts and William Hovell. Wright established a small military settlement at the present-day site of Rhyll and called it Fort Dumaresq. However, fresh water proved a problem and the outpost was moved to Corinella on the eastern shoreline of Westernport.
Meanwhile Hovell's explorations of the coastline revealed his mistake and an erroneous report claiming that Westernport was unsuitable for agriculture, owing to poor soil and lack of fresh water, coupled with the absence of any Frenchmen, led to the abandonment of the Westernport settlements in 1828. The buildings were burned to prevent their usage by escapee convicts. As a result of this comedy of errors, settlement of the Port Phillip district was delayed for another seven years.
Throughout this period, because of the colonies of seals which inhabited the coastline, sealers made regular stopovers on the island. Their settlements were short-lived and designed only to process their catch.
The first permanent settlement of the island occurred in1842 when the McHaffie brothers were granted a pastoral lease covering almost the entire island. It thus served as a sheep run until 1868 when the island was surveyed and made available to selectors. The first recorded land sale took place at Rhyll in 1868. More sales proceeded in 1869 at Cowes which was known as Mussel Point until 1865. It was renamed by government surveyor Henry Cox after a holiday retreat on England's Isle of Wight. Jetties were built at Rhyll in 1868 and at Cowes in 1870 to facilitate access from, and trade with, the mainland. By 1870 the Isle of Wight Hotel had also been built at Cowes.
165 settlers were to be found on the island in 1872. It was thought that wheat-growing would prove viable as Phillip Island was a short boat trip from the Melbourne markets, unlike the distant wheat belt of Western Victoria, although the industry never really got off the ground.
Fishing had emerged (particularly for crayfish) and chicory was grown for the first time in 1870. It is one of the charms of the island that you can still see, beside the road, the occasional chicory kiln with its strange tower and pitched roof. This plant, which is a root crop, was dried and converted into powder and mixed with coffee. It was claimed that chicory had medicinal properties. By the late 1940s nearly three-quarters of Australia's chicory crop was being grown on Phillip Island but it eventually faded owing to high labour costs and declining demand. Sheep, cattle and mustard were also produced in this era.
Municipal government commenced in 1871. However, development of the island was slow as a number of early settlers were forced to abandon their land owing to drought. An exodus occurred in the 1870s with much of the property bought up by a small number of landowners. By 1902 there were no more than 50 settlers. At this time cattle had to be swum across the channel between Newhaven and the mainland. Men in boats would rope them and tow them across the ocean to a stockyard at San Remo in the short period when the tides were appropriate.
The real development of the island occurred in the 1920s with the establishment of an access track to the penguin colony. Tourism was greatly stimulated with visitors accessing the island by means of the ferry service at Cowes where a number of grand guesthouses were built. Visitors tended to explore the island by horseback.
The Shire of Phillip Island was declared in 1928 and the first motor race was held on the island that same year. A bridge linked the island to the mainland for the first time in 1940.
The Newhaven College Gourmet Food and Wine Festival is held in April.
Things to see
Tourist Information
The Phillip Island Tourist Information Centre is located on the roadside just a kilometre west of the Newhaven bridge on the southern side of Phillip Island Road. It has been built to resemble one of the chicory kilns which still dot the island. The centre is open from 9.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. daily with extended hours in the school holidays. Tickets can be purchased here for the Penguin Parade, Churchill Island, ferry cruises and scenic air flights. A Phillip Island Nature Pass covers entry charges to the Penguin Parade, Churchill Island, the Sea Rocks Sea Life Centre and the Koala Conservation Centre, tel: 1300 366 422. Barbecues, playgrounds and public toilets can be found in Richard Grayden Park on Forrest Ave.
Fishing
Anglers can dangle a line off the jetty. They will find plenty of squid, snapper, channel whiting, gummy shark, flathead, King George whiting, flounder, Australian salmon, garfish, trevally and pike about. There is an all-tide boat ramp and a slipway. Fishing trips and boat charter services are offered by Flytrek Australia (tel: 03 5952 5300) and T-Cat Fishing Charters, tel: (0409) 504 974.
The Australian Dairy Centre
The Australian Dairy Centre is located just over the bridge on Phillip Island Rd at Newhaven. It is a cheese factory with samples and sales of Australian cheeses and a dairy museum. There is a souvenir and gift shop and a cafeteria. The centre is open from 9.30 a.m. to 5.30 p.m. daily, tel: (03) 5956 7583 or (0419) 576 638.
Islantis Surf Shop
Surfing gear is available from Islantis at 10 Phillip Island Road, tel: (03) 5956 7553.
Churchill Island
This tiny and historic island covers only 57 hectares. It is located offshore, just to the north-west of Newhaven. To get there take the signposted turnoff which heads north off Phillip Island Road just 1 km west of the Newhaven bridge. It takes you across a narrow timber bridge to the island. This bridge replaced access by longboat in 1961. Access is from 10.00 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. daily although passage across the bridge can be impossible during extreme high tide. Note that there is an entry fee, tel; (03) 5956 7214.
Churchill Island was discovered, along with Phillip Island, by George Bass and Matthew Flinders when they arrived in the area on the 25-ton sloop Norfolk in 1798. Three years later (1801) Lieutenant James Grant constructed a simple cottage and named the island after his friend, John Churchill, who had supplied him with seeds. He planted corn, wheat and a small garden. This was the first European settlement in Victoria. Nine months later Lieutenant Murray visited the site and found the crops grown to two metres. The island was subsequently abandoned.
In 1857 Samuel Pickersgill and his family inhabited the island. John Rogers took up residence in 1866, building two small cottages.
Six years later the island was purchased by Samuel Amess, a building contractor responsible for the post office, customs house and treasury buildings in Melbourne. He built a symmetrical weatherboard homestead on the island in 1872.
The island was subsequently owned by the founder of the Melbourne store Buckley and Nunn. In 1976 it was bought by the Victorian Conservation Trust and it is now known as Churchill Island National Park. Its principal attractions include the structures built by Rogers and Amess and the outbuildings, lawns, fragrant herb and flower gardens. A Norfolk pine planted by Amess in 1872 has now grown to 25 metres with a girth of 4.4 metres. Also in his garden is a cannon from the US ship the Shenandoah (see entry onWilliamstown) which was given to Amess by the ship's officers in his appreciation of his hospitality when the ship visited Melbourne in 1865. There are also historical displays, including a museum of old farming machinery. The island is a working farm with highland cattle, sheep, ducks, chickens and Clydesdale horses. There are ranger talks, machinery demonstrations and festivals throughout the year. You can enjoy morning tea at the homestead or a BYO picnic on the lawns. There are toilets, disabled facilities, souvenirs, refreshments and barbecue facilities.
There are a number of walking tracks. The Churchill Island Loop Track is an easy-going stroll which starts at the homestead and takes around two hours. The North Point Loop Track (one hour) also starts at the homestead. There are shorter walks: the Bass Rock Loop (30 minutes), Grant's Monument Loop (30 minutes) and the Mangrove Loop (45 minutes).
These walks take in some fine views and a good sample of the island's flora and fauna. The northern-most tip of the island is a particularly good place to see the migratory birdlife, especially at low tide when the mud flats are exposed. There are pied oyster catchers, royal spoonbills, herons, ibis and gulls. The woodlands of the island's north-west feature the fascinating gnarled trunks of the island's stands of moonah, or melaleuca, trees which are 400-500 years old, and there are a few koalas in the manna gums.
Cape Woolamai
Cape Woolamai is located at the tip of the island's south-eastern peninsula, directly south of Newhaven. The turnoff into Woolamai Rd is on the left, 3 km west of the Newhaven bridge. It leads to a carpark at Woolamai Beach Surf Lifesaving Club. Woolamai Beach faces out to Bass Strait on the western side of the peninsula. It is considered one of the island's best surfing beaches but it is known for its strong rips and currents so be sure to stay between the flags when swimming.
Behind the beach, and to its south, is the Cape Woolamai State Faunal Reserve which features some dry coast scrub and some spectacular and rugged coastal scenery. The rocks of Cape Woolamai are home to around one million short-tailed shearwaters, otherwise known as mutton birds. These remarkable birds migrate from Japan, Alaska and Siberia, arriving on the island each year in late September to breed. They clean out and reline their burrows then mate in early November. Most of the eggs are laid in late November and incubation lasts for 53 days. In that time the father and mother share the egg-minding duties with one or the other on the nest at all times. The chicks are fed with decreasing frequency from early February to early April. They grow rapidly until they outweigh the parents. The adults leave on their migration two weeks ahead of their chicks which virtually starve for two weeks until they reduce to average adult weight, departing in late April. As they have a high bodyweight to wing surface ratio they utilise high winds, low sand dunes and a running jump to launch themselves. These birds are protected on Phillip Island although, in the 19th century, they were killed for their feathers and flesh. They live to an average age of 21 years and are particularly evident when they fly in at dusk.
The Pinnacles Walk (4 km return) heads south from the shelter at the beach carpark along the western edge of the peninsula past some offshore rock formations known as The Pinnacles. The Cape Woolamai Granite Quarry Loop is a longer walk (8 km return) which also takes in the Pinnacles and the highest point on the island (109 metres) from whence there are excellent views. It passes Gull Island, offshore, and a secluded cove which was once a granite quarry employing 300 people. At the quarry wooden pegs were hammered into the rocks. These would swell when wet, thus cracking the rock.
Other island walks are described in information available from the information centre. Diving charters in this area operate out of San Remo.
The Colonnades
At the northern end of Woolamai Rd there is a turnoff which heads south-west to The Colonnades - an unusual rock formation resembling organ pipes on the cliff face. It is best seen at low tide. You can also take a walk to the site by heading north from the Woolamai Surf Beach carpark along the western edge of the peninsula.
Forrest Caves
Continue west along Phillip Island Road. A little less than a kilometre west of the Woolamai Rd turnoff the driver descends a hill. A sign on the left declares 'Forrest Caves'. There is a carpark and a dirt track which leads to the water's edge and a series of steps which facilitate views of Forrest Caves - a series of large sea-eroded caverns which are best seen at low tide.
The coastline here is home to another set of muttonbird rookeries. The birds are present between the end of September and April and they are best seen at dusk.
Surf Beach and Surfies Point
Nearly 2 km further west along Phillip Island Rd is a turnoff on the left into The Esplanade which heads out past a carpark associated with Surf Beach and Surfies Point. As their names indicate these are noted surfing spots. You can walk along the beach from the carpark to the back of the Surf Beach Estate. It takes about 45 minutes. Further east is Sunderland Bay.
Other Tourist Attractions
Phillip Island has numerous sites of interest which are to be found further afield. They are listed below, along with instructions on how to get to them from Newhaven, but, for detailed information on each, see the entry on Phillip Island. These attractions are grouped below according to whether the visitor follows Phillip Island Rd or turns off into Back Beach Road.
(A) Tourist Attractions on Phillip Island Road
7 km west of the Newhaven bridge is a turnoff on the right into the Newhaven-Rhyll Road which leads to Rhyll and the fine wetlands of the Rhyll inlet.
About 10 km west of the bridge, on Phillip Island Rd, are A Maze 'n' Things Holiday Park on the left and the Koala Conservation Centre on the right. Just beyond these two attractions is a turnoff on the right into Harbison Rd which leads past the Oswin Roberts Reserve and the walking/cycling tracks to Conservation Hill and the Rhyll inlet.
About 3 km beyond the Koala Observation Centre, to the left, is the Phillip Island Wildlife Park. Another kilometre brings you to a major intersection: a right leads past Conservation Hill to Rhyll, a left into Ventnor Rd (see entry on Cowes) and, if you drive straight ahead, you will find yourself in Cowes.
(B) Tourist Attractions on Back Beach Road and Summerland Peninsula
About 8 km west of the Newhaven bridge, along Phillip Island Road, there is a turnoff on the left into Back Beach Rd. About 1 km along Back Beach Rd is a turnoff into Smiths Beach Rd which heads south to Smiths Beach on the coast. Further west along Back Beach Road is the Phillip Island Grand Prix Circuit Visitors Centre. About 3 km beyond Smiths Beach Rd is the turnoff on the left to Pyramid Rock.
If you continue west along Back Beach Rd you will pass one of the island's old chicory kilns on the right. The first left beyond the kiln is Berrys Beach Rd which leads past the Phillip Island Winery and the Woolshed Restaurant to Berrys Beach.
A little over 2 km further west along Back Beach Rd is the turnoff on the left to Kitty Miller Bay and the wreck of the SS Speke.
Another kilometre brings the visitor to a T-intersection. If you turn left into Ventnor Rd it leads out along the Summerland peninsula, past Swan Lake Reserve, the Penguin Parade site at Summerland Beach (on the southern side of the peninsula) and the beaches on the northern side of the peninsula. The road terminates at Point Grant where you will find the Nobbies, Seal Rocks, the Blowhole and the Sea Rocks Sea Life Centre.
For further information on these attractions see the entry on Phillip Island.
Tours
Bay Connections operate regular scenic cruises, with commentary, from Cowes. One journeys along the Phillip Island coastline to Seal Rocks; another crosses over to French Island where it conjoins with a bus tour of the island, and a third cruise investigates Westernport. From November to May there are also special cruises to the Balnarring market (see entry on Somers), occasional cruises around Wilsons Promontory and, from June to August, a whale and seal-watching cruise. There is also a transfer package from the Mornington Peninsula to the motorcycle racing track during the Grand Prix, tel: (03) 5678 5642 or fax: (03) 5678 5859. Their web-site is at http://www.bayconnections.com.au
Surefoot Explorations, who specialise in birdwatching, offer a small-scale guided nature tours around the island, tel: (03) 5952 1533 or check out their web-site at http://www.surefoot.com.au.
Phillip Island Marine Eco Tours operate licenced cruises with commentary , taking in Rhyll wetlands, tel: (0427) 056 628.
Island Scenic Tours offer penguin parade tours, island sightseeing tours and personally tailored expeditions, tel: (03) 5952 1042 or 0417 360 370.
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