Surfer's at Laguna Bay, Noosa.Credit: Tourism Queensland
The key to any understanding of Noosa Heads is to recognise that it is the Toorak or Double Bay of the Queensland coast. It is a little piece of exclusive city suburbia located on the Sunshine Coast and, as one cynic observed, 'a true holiday home for yuppies': a sort of summer equivalent of Perisher Valley where the young and the wealthy come to get away from it all. Of course it was not always like this. Noosa Heads, located 178 km north of Brisbane, and with a present population of around 10 000, was originally a sleepy little village beside the sea, known only to a few anglers and beachcombers.
Noosa's resort area commences at Peregian Beach in the south and extends north through Marcus Beach, Sunrise Beach and Sunshine Beach to Noosa Heads. All are flanked, to the east, by the Coral Sea. North of Noosa Heads, the coastline veers to the northwest, enclosing Laguna Bay, which forms the mouth of the Noosa River. The resort area continues west of Noosa Heads, along the southern bank of the river, through Noosaville and on to Tewantin.
The first European to 'get away from it all' at Noosa was the convict 'Wandi' (David Bracefell) who managed to escape from Moreton Bay with almost monotonous regularity. Each time he escaped he fled north and lived with the Noosa Aborigines, who were presumably the Gubbi Gubbi people. Between 1828 and1839 he escaped four times. He accompanied Henry Russell Petrie's exploration of the coast in 1842 and was involved in the rescue of Eliza Fraser on Fraser Island.
There seems to have been no great urgency to develop Noosa or Tewantin in the nineteenth century. Around 1865 timber-cutters moved into the area and, in their wake, a sawmill was built at Tewantin. The possibility of using the area as a port resulted in the Noosa estuary being surveyed in 1869 and the following year Tewantin was opened as a port shipping timber out and bringing gold prospectors in to the Gympie goldfields.
It wasn't until after World War I that the area began to develop as a tourist resort, once attracting no more than about 600 visitors a year. A surf lifesaving club was formed in 1927, the Noosa National Park was established in 1930 and tourist development started in earnest in the late 1940s.
The road which winds along the banks of the Noosa River from Tewantin provides a number of picnic spots beside the river. While Tewantin is the older settlement, today the two tourist destinations merge into each other and it is only the newness and the costliness of Noosa which really divides them.
In recent times the area has been the subject of considerable controversy. In 1970 conservationists fought the plans of two sandmining companies who wished to mine Cooloola National Park. A longer term problem has been the feeling amongst locals that the village atmosphere was being destroyed by unsympathetic high-rise and canal development.
Hastings Street, Noosa's main street, is starting to look like an upmarket version of any shopping centre along the Gold Coast. Local businessmen, with good old-fashioned Queensland parochialism, insist that they have tried to retain a village atmosphere and blame most of the tourist excesses on developers from the southern states. In spite of these complaints there are many aspects of Noosa and Tewantin which are charming. There is a sense of style which is missing from much of the Queensland coast.
Coolum proudly announces that it was first settled in 1871. However, if the first settlers could see the ugly high-rise buildings which have been piled on top of this small beachside resort town they would be less than impressed. About the only redeeming features in the area are the unspoilt cliff faces of Mount Coolum and the beautiful beaches which are a magnet for surfers all year round.
On the other hand, holidaymakers in search of COMFORT will have no trouble obtaining luxurious accommodation and a good feed. There are plenty of eateries, particularly along Hastings St, catering to a wide range of palettes and budgets, and a growing number of wine bars. The ocean beaches are patrolled, while there are calmer riverside beaches along the Noosa River. Surfing is popular, there are learn-to-surf outfits and all manner of aquatic activities, including jetskis, parasailing, windsurfing, scuba diving, fishing, cruises, canoeing and kayaking along the river, and kite surfing. There are also 4WD tours to Fraser Island and the option of exploring Noosa National Park. Investigations of the area can also take place via camel trek, horseback, Harley Davidson, biplane or mountain bike. There are markets at Noosa Harbour, Peregian, Tewantin and at Eumundi, and plenty of art galleries and antique shops about. The local night clubs offer a more visceral experience. Access is via air (the airport is at Pacific Paradise to the south), coach (the bus depot is at Noosaville), rail (the railway station is at Cooroy, to the west), sea (there is a harbour at Tewantin and a slipway in Mill St, Noosa)
In 1990 Coolum received national attention when it was briefly accepted as the ideal site for the Multi Function Polis but the local residents were so adamant in their rejection of the plan that the MFP did not eventuate.
Things to see
Noosa Information Centre
Located in Hastings St, the Information Centre can help you to get orientated, inform you of all that is on offer, and tell you about forthcoming local events. They act as a booking agency concerning local accommodation and can guide you to businesses which offer local tours, services and hire equipment. They also possess copies of the Heritage and Discovery Map which identifies points of interest along a 99-km round trip, tel: (1800) 002 624, or (07) 5430 5000.
Noosa National Park
Noosa National Park attracts over one million annual visitors. While it covers 2280 ha, it is actually composed of several disjoined pieces of land. These are divided into three sections:
(a) Noosa Headland (477 ha), which covers just that - the headland after which Noosa is named
(b) the Peregian section, which includes an almost continuous stripof hinterland extending from Noosaville to the suburb of Coolum Beach, touching the foreshore at Peregian Beach South
and, further inland: (c) the Weyba section, which extends southwards from Weyba Downs, at the south-western end of Lake Weyba.
Thus the park takes in a variety of land forms, habitats and fauna, including koalas.There are walking tracks, picnic and barbecue areas, the obvious aquatic leisure activities, and holiday programs. Spring is the best time to visit to avoid the crowds and to enjoy the wildflowers and the best weather.
The northern headland section features a rocky cliffline, fine oceanic views, a number of sheltered beaches and coves, and a diverse environment of grassland, scrubland, heathland, open forest and rainforest. The bushwalks, beautiful scenery, the string of bays, the noted swimming and surfing beaches and the picnic spots all stand in sharp contrast to the urbanity of the nearby Noosa shopping centre.
Five walking tracks of varying length start from the park entrance at the end of Park Rd where there is an information centre, toilets, drinking water, a car park and a picnic area with electric barbecues, beach showers and lookouts.
The Coastal Track (2.7 km one-way) leads past the Boiling Pot to Tea-Tree Bay, Granite Bay and Hells Gates.The Palm Grove Circuit (1 km) passes through rainforest. Noosa Hill Track (a 3.4-km circuit) climbs through open forest to Noosa Hill for views over the park. The Tanglewood track (4.2 km one-way) to Hells Gates passes through rainforest, open forest and heath. Another leads from Sunshine Beach to Alexandria Bay, passing through coastal heath communities. This trek is 2.3 km one way from Parkedge Road or 1 km one way from McAnally Drive.
The Peregian Section of the Park has the Coastal Heath Track (1 km one way) which leads through coastal heath to the beach while the Weyba Section is undeveloped.
For further information ring the Park Information Centre on (07) 5447 3243. It is open daily from 9.00 a.m. to 3.00 p.m. Visitors should note that there is no camping in Noosa National Park, or check out:http://www.derm.qld.gov.au/parks/noosa/index.html
Tewantin
Tewantin is basically a shopping centre and a residential area. The Big Shell Museum and Hattery is located at 87 Gympie Street (07 5447 1268) and the House of Bottles at 19 Myles Street, tel: (07) 5447 1277. The Noosa Regional Gallery is situated within the Council Chambers in Pelican St. Tewantin also has a golf course and a boat-hire service for exploring the fishing, wildlife and scenic values of the river. The latter is located at the Noosa Harbour Marine Village, in Parkyn Court, which also boasts ferry cruises, river fishing tours, deep-sea fishing charters, houseboat hire, restaurants, a café, a wine bar, specialty shops and an art gallery, tel: (07) 5473 0166.
Art Galleries
The Noosa Regional Gallery is located in the council offices in Pelican Street,
Tewantin. It is a substantial public art gallery which stresses contemporary art with local and touring exhibitions (tel: 07 5449 5340 or http://www.noosaregionalgallery.org).
The Noosa-Tewantin area also has numerous private art galleries. These include Timbuktu to Kathmandu at 30 Mary St, Noosaville, which specialises in crafts from Africa, the Middle East, India and Nepal, including 3000 handmade beads (tel: 07 5449 7988 or http://www.timbuktu.com.au) and the contemporary art and design of Wild Oats Gallery at 19 Hilton Terrace, Noosaville, (tel: 07 5474 3388 or http://www.wildoats.com.au).
Spas
Those seeking some high end pampering can get their fill at Aqua Day Spa (part of the Sheraton Noosa Resort in Hastings St, Noosa Heads, http://www.aquadayspa.com.au/) or the Ikatan Spa - Balinese Day Spa and Gardens at 46 Grays Road, Doonan (en route to Eumundi). They operate a pick-up service from the Sunshine Coast Airport, tel: (07) 5471 1199 or check out: http://www.ikatanspa.com/about-ikatan-spa/
Cooloola National Park (Introduction)
Cooloola National Park (56 600 ha) forms the southern portion of Great Sandy National Park. Stretching north from the Noosa River to Rainbow Beach, it provides a haven for indigenous flora and fauna threatened by urban development and is characterised by open heathland, banksia woodlands, dry sclerophyll forest of scribbly gum and blackbutt, rainforest, coloured sand cliffs, attractive and extensive beaches, a plenitude of birdlife, including sea eagles, and the freshwater lakes, mangrove wetlands and tributaries associated with the Noosa River.
Great Sandy National Park incorporates and preserves the largest tract of natural land on Queensland¹s southern coast and the largest intact sand dune system in the world (around Teewah Beach). Visitors can enjoy bushwalking, picnicking, scenic drives, boating, fishing, lake and surf swimming, although the beaches are unpatrolled, sharks are common and bluebottles are present during northerly winds. Whales can be seen offshore between August and October, while dolphins and manta rays are more regular visitors. Wildflowers bloom on the heathlands in spring, which is the ideal time to visit. The Park is popular in school and public holidays so be prepared to book in advance at these times, tel: (07) 5449 7792 or (07) 5486 3160 or check out: http://www.derm.qld.gov.au/parks/cooloola-northern/index.html
Cooloola National Park (Lake Cootharaba, Boreen Point and Elanda Point)
The Park incorporates the headwaters and catchment area of the Noosa River which passes between Lake Como and Lake Cooloola through an area known as the Noosa Everglades into Lake Cootharaba (90 square kilometres), which is the largest natural lake in the state.
The Lake is a good place to commence an exploration of the Park's waterways (which include Kin Kin Creek) by canoe or power boat, both of which can be hired on the lake shore (see below). Power boats are banned upstream of bush campsite 3 (see entry below on Upper River Camps) and strict speed restrictions apply. No wash is permitted north of the Kinaba Information Centre (see next entry). Canoes must be tied, not dragged ashore, and cannot land at all between Fig Tree Point and Harry's Camping Area. Boats travelling downstream have the right of way, though canoeists should generally be wary of larger craft. Jumping and diving is highly inadvisable in the lakes or rivers of the park.
Cootharaba is frequently utilised as a sailing and boating venue by casual visitors and by local boat clubs. It also hosts state and national sailing championships . Its waters are shallow but can be rough, being at their calmest in the morning. The principal access point to the lake is the township at Boreen Point where there is also an 'organic' golf farm with a chemical-free course and organic meals, tel: (07) 5485 3494 or check out: http://www.kabigolf.com.au/
Boreen Point is readily accessible by a sealed road from Tewantin. Its facilities include motels, a caravan park, camping areas, power boat and canoe-hire services from Elanda Point Canoe Company (tel: 07 5485 3165) , picnic tables, sheltered picnic settings, a public telephone, toilets, a boat ramp, petrol, food supplies and a restaurant.
It is possible to continue north with a 2WD from Boreen Point, along the lake shore, past the National Park carpark and canoe launch and a ranger station, to Elanda Point, where there is a privately owned camping area (tel: 07 5485 3165) which has a kiosk and which hires out canoes and small power boats. Here the road ends.
Cooloola National Park (Kinaba Information Centre and Fig Tree Point Camping Area)
6 km north of Elanda Point, along the lake shore, is Kinaba Information Centre and, 2 km further north again, Fig Tree Point Camping Area. Both can be reached by walking track or by canoe or boat (including tour boats from Noosa/Tewantin). Kinaba has information, toilets, a ranger station, a self-guided walk (see section below on bushwalks), toilets, tables, bush camping, disabled access and rainwater which must be treated before drinking. To make bookings for Fig Tree Point, ring 137468
Cooloola National Park (Lake Cooroibah)
To access the western shore of Lake Cooroibah (just north of Tewantin), take Lake Cooroibah Rd, which heads north off McKinnon Drive (the Tewantin-Boreen Point Road).
Cooloola National Park (Teewah Beach and the Coloured Sands)
It is possible to access Teewah Beach by taking the ferry at Tewantin across the Noosa River and following Maximillian Road. It is sealed for about 3 km then it becomes a dirt track which is navigable in a 2WD, so long as it has not been raining.
However, to explore most other areas of the park, visitors need a 4WD. For example, it it is permissible to traverse Teewah Beach in a 4WD at low tide, although conditions apply, such as speed limits and on the proviso that drivers stick to the beach and designated tracks. About 16 km north of Maximillian Road's terminus are some of the Park's famous coloured sands. Erosion has exposed a palette of as many as 72 different coloured sands which have been produced by combinations of iron oxide and leached vegetable dyes. It is likely that the sands have been forming since the last ice age. More poetically, an Aboriginal legend tellsof a spirit which took the form of a rainbow. Entering into a fight over a young woman the spirit fell onto the cliffs infusing the sands with its polychromatic splendour.
Beach camping is limited to a 15-km area along Teewah Beach between the boundary of the Noosa Shire in the south and Freshwater Creek. Self-registration stations exist at both ends of this zone. Permits for camping at Teewah Beach can be obtained by contacting the Rainbow Beach office on (07) 5486 3160 between 7.00 a.m. and 4.00 p.m.
Cooloola National Park (Cooloola Way, Harry's Camp and Upper River Camps)
It is possible, in a 4WD (weather permitting), to proceed from Tewantin to Rainbow Beach via Cooloola Way, a 32-km dirt road which passes through the Park's western catchment, offering scenic views, a profusion of wildflowers in spring, tall forests and banksia wallum. From Cooloola Way it is possible to turn off into Harry's Hut Road, following it to Harry's Camp and Day Use Area on the Upper Noosa River, where there are campsites, toilets, sheltered picnic areas, and rainwater which, to reiterate, must be treated before drinking. To make bookings for Harry's, ring 137468.
There are also 15 designated bushcamping sites along the Upper Noosa River, to the north of Harry's. Fires are not permitted at these sites and there are no facilities, other than pit toilets at camps one, two and three which are also located along walking tracks.
These 15 camps are generally used by those travelling by canoe or boat, although power boats are not allowed beyond camp no. 3.
Cooloola National Park (Northern Section)
For information on the Park's northern attractions (including more coloured sands, Bymien Picnic Area, the Freshwater and Poverty Point campsites, the northern end of Teewah Beach, Double Island Point, the Cherry Venture Shipwreck, Murrawar Lookout, Carlo Sandblow, 4WD tracks and many more walking tracks), see the entry on Rainbow Beach.
Cooloola National Park (Fishing)
Fishing is popular along Teewah Beach the Noosa River and Kin Kin Creek. Refuse from fish cleaning must be buried at least 30 cm deep, below the high tide line, while, for those fishing the river, such refuse must be removed from the park altogether. Net-fishing is not permitted along the river or creeks and bag limits and size restrictions apply to some species.
Cooloola National Park (Bushwalks)
Cooloola offers many bushwalking opportunities which are best enjoyed when the wildflowers bloom in the spring. Walking leaflets are available from the Noosa Information Centre. There are many different tracks. Signs at the commencement of each walk indicate the distance. Some trails involve crossing the Noosa River, which can also be explored via canoe, so it is best to have a lilo on hand for some walks.
The longest walk is the Cooloola Wilderness Trail (46 km one way) which joins Elanda Point in the south to East Mullen Car Park (on Rainbow Beach Rd) in the north. It takes in two bushcamping areas with no facilities (Neebs Waterhole and Wandi Waterhole), as well as Harry's Camp and Fig Tree Point. The entire walk takes about three days on average, although it can be extended by exploring byways. It can be enjoyed any time from April to November (sections are flooded in the summer and early autumn so check on conditions before departure). The trail attempts to recreate the path pursued by Eliza Fraser (see entry on Fraser Island).
Other tracks in the southern section include the Teewah Landing Track, which heads west from Teewah Beach to the eastern shore of Lake Cootharaba. A 2-km side track leads to Seawah Hill which affords excellent views of the district's lakes, rivers and beaches down to Noosa.
Three walks begin from the Elanda Point carpark and canoe launch. The Elanda Circuit (5.1 km) takes in melaleuca and casuarina forests with a 400-metre detour to Mill Point to see the remnants of a milling settlement which existed from 1862-1892.
The Kinaba Track (6.1 km one way) also starts at Elanda Point. It passes through grasslands and palm and paperbark wetlands to Kinaba Information Centre. From the latter there is a 500-metre trek called the Mangrove Self-Guiding Walk which passes along a wetlands boardwalk with information signs.
It is 4.7 km (one way) from Elanda Point, through woodlands, forest and open grassy areas to the remnant rainforests of Kin Kin Creek. An optional extra is to follow the creek from the footbridge for 5.9 km to the campsite at Fig Tree Point, which can also be accessed by boat or by dint of a 5-km walk from Harry's Hut Road. From Fig Tree Point there is a 500-metre wetland boardwalk called the Melaleuca Circuit or a 6.6-km walk (one way) through open and closed forest to Harry's Camping Area. This walk follows a portion of the Cooloola Wilderness Trail.
For those with a canoe or lilo, it is possible to paddle across the river to the start of a 5.8-km hike along the river, passing bush campsites 1 and 2 before reaching campsite number 3. Armed with some drinking water it is possible to take a 12-km return diversion from campsite 3 to the enormous Cooloola Sandpatch which offers excellent views.
Cooloola National Park (Tour Operators and Further Information)
Several local companies offer scenic boat tours through the park's lakes and waterways, including the Everglades Water Bus Company (tel:1800 688 045 or 07 5447 1838). They also take in excursions to the coloured sands and the Park's rainforests. Those wanting to explore on their own can hire boats or canoes at Tewantin, Tin Can Bay, Rainbow Beach, Boreen Point or Elanda Point. For details of 4WD tours, 4WD hire and other hire services and tour operators, see next entry. For further information contact Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service, tel: 137 468 between 8:30am and 4:30pm Monday to Friday.
Tours, Cruises and Activities
The beaches are patrolled, surfing is popular, there are learn-to-surf outfits and all manner of aquatic activities, including jetskis, parasailing, windsurfing, scuba diving, fishing, cruises, canoeing, kayaking and kite surfing, with hire services to match. There are also 4WD tours to Fraser Island .
Investigations of the area can take place via camel trek, horseback, Harley Davidson, biplane or mountain bike. Markets are held at Noosa Harbour, Peregian, Tewantin and at Eumundi, and there are plenty of art galleries and antique shops about. The local night clubs offer a more visceral experience.
Total Adventures organise trips for those interested in canoeing, kayaking, abseiling and mountain biking, tel: (07) 5440 5444 or check out: http://www.totaladventures.com.au/page1.html. Lake Cooroibah Holiday Park, 10 km north-west, offers horseriding and camel safaris, contact (07) 5447 1225. Several local companies offer boat and/or 4WD tours through Cooloola National Park, including Everglades Water Bus Company ( tel: 1800 688 045 or 07 5447 1838), Noosa Everglades Discovery which has a beach safari and a boat with an upper deck and hostess (07 5449 0393 orhttp://www.noosaevergladesdiscovery.com.au/), Noosa 4WD Eco-Tours (tel: 07 5449 8252 orhttp://www.noosa4wdecotours.com.au/) and Noosa Queen River Cruise, tel: (07) 5455 6661. Those wanting to explore the park on their own can hire boats at Tewantin. Other local operators include River Fishing and Crab Tours (tel: 0407 206 062 or http://www.noosafishingandcrabtours.com.au/) and Offbeat Rainforest Tours, tel: (07) 5473 5135 or http://www.offbeattours.com.au/
Noosa Council Trail Network
Noosa Council has established a rural trail network along unsurfaced roads and laneways in the shire, passing through the open forest, rainforest and farmland of the coast and hinterland. Picnic, camping areas and water supplies have been established along the way, along with water troughs, yards and horse float parking areas for horses. The trials can be used by walkers, horse riders and by those mountain bike riders who like a challenge. In the future it is hoped that accommodation will be added along the routes. Maps are available from the Noosa Information centre and Noosa Council. As of October 2010, there are eight trails.For more information ring check out:http://www.sunshinecoast.qld.gov.au/sitePage.cfm?code=noosa-trail-network
Skydive Ramblers Parachute Centre
Tandem Skydiving over Coolum Beach, with a qualified instructor, is available from Ramblers Parachute Centre, on David Low Way at Coolum. They can be contacted on (0407) 996 400 or (07) 5446 1855, or check out: http://www.ramblers.com.au
Events and Markets
There are plenty of annual events in and around Noosa, including July's slog up and down the 438-metre slopes of Mount Cooroora at Pomona in King of the Mountain (tel: 07 5485 4125). Other sports-based events are the Festival of Surfing in March, the Family Fishing Classic and Noosa Boat Show in June, the Noosa Half Marathon (August or September) and the world-renowned Noosa Triathlon Multi-Sport Festival in the spring (see http://www.usmevents.com.au/). Non-sporting events include the Noosa Country Music Festival (held in Noosaville in January), the ten-day Noosa Long Weekend cultural festival in June (seehttp://www.noosalongweekend.com), the Noosa Beach Party in August, the Noosa Jazz Festival in September, the Noosa Beach Car Classic in October and the Silent Film Festival.
Noosa Harbour's Craft Markets are held each Sunday from 8.00 a.m. to 2.00 p.m. at 2 Parkyn St. Markets are also held on the foreshore park (in front of the shopping centre) at Peregian Beach on the first and third Sunday of each month.
Tourist information
Noosa Junction Tourist Information Centre
20 Sunshine Beach Rd
Noosa QLD 4567
Telephone: (07) 5447 3798
Tourism Noosa Information Centre
Hastings St
Noosa QLD 4567
Telephone: (07) 5447 4988
Facsimile: (07) 5474 9494
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