Travel guide and things to do in Noumea: Three-minute guide

WHY?

Partly a weird remnant of France in the Pacific, partly a distinctive hive of Islander culture, Noumea is both New Caledonia's capital and largest city. It often feels like it's in a timewarp – often dated but never down at heel – but also like a real city rather than somewhere that exists solely for tourists. Expect Bordeaux wines, crepes, a big sailing fraternity and a spectacular mountain backdrop. The best bases are Baie des Citrons and Anse Vata in the south of the city.

VISIT

The Centre Culturel Tjibaou is devoted to the local Kanak culture, with smatterings from other Pacific Islands, too. It traces the attempts to revive and sustain Kanak culture, while exploring beliefs and arts. It's also an absolutely staggering piece of architecture from Renzo Piano, with eye-popping interpretations on 10 "cases" (traditional houses). See adck.nc

EAT

Manuia is well hidden behind the shops on Anse Vata's coastal strip – look for the white gate behind the Maison de la Perle jeweller. But it's arguably the best place to eat there, with a Tahitian vibe, gardens seemingly invading the dining area and marvellous seafood. The country-style tuna steak for 2800 francs ($36) is both sizeable and excellent. Call 00 687 23 12 50.

LOOK

If you're wanting a bit of exercise beyond walking from the beach to the gelato shop, then take on a probably rather sweaty hike up to the Parc Naturel du Ouen-Toro. It's the big hill next to Anse Vata, and from there you can see out over green, mountainous peninsulas and island to the east, plus the lagoon, reef and resort islets to the south.