NSW weekender: Heaven in the hills of Bellingen

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This was published 9 years ago

NSW weekender: Heaven in the hills of Bellingen

Culture and contentment inhabit a tranquil valley six hours from Sydney, writes Sarah Berry.

Country comfort: The accommodation at Northfarm.

Country comfort: The accommodation at Northfarm.

The stairway to heaven is traditionally up. But, when heaven is the lush, verdant valley of Bellingen, on the mid-north coast of NSW, it is a delightfully ambling descent.

Nestled on the winding Bellingen River, the town is referred to as the creative hub of the Coffs region. Music, markets, festivals and fabulous food abound, making it an ideal destination for epicureans and culture-lovers alike.

It is no surprise then that Northfarm, a sanctuary for weary humans and wildlife alike, is owned by a couple of cultured foodies.

Set on 13 stunning acres with spectacular views over Bindarri National Park, Northfarm is run by Jen, a well-informed biodynamic farmer and Gai, a cheese maker and former food and gardening writer.

The accommodation itself, while surrounded by stunning scenery, is simple. You can expect airy rooms with comfortable beds. The tin cottage, where we stayed, was spacious and homely with wooden floorboards and a large bathroom, accessible for wheelchairs.

The first day we wake to the intense symphony of cicada song. Jen shows us around the property, which has been created to include a protected corridor for local koalas. There are the abundant orchards, where you might pick yourself a ripe fig or peach.

They even have the native beehives. You might also feed one of the five resident goats a passionfruit vine leaf and meet the chattering chooks.

Jen and Gai then direct us to a gorgeous, hidden swimming hole on the Never Never River, where we while the afternoon away with a locally bought platter of cheeses and organic fruits.

To make up for all the indulging we happily head to the Dorrigo rainforest for a run along the path, weaving through ancient trees, past the trickling waterfalls and narrowly missing a python, sunning itself on the track.

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We then head into town to the local pub which has a great beer garden, regular live music performances and good food.

On returning to the property, only a short drive from town, we find our hosts have lit tea candles around the large undercover area outside the cottage. We settle into the sofa with a wine and enjoy the blazing brazier and utterly gobsmacking sky. The stars, of course, are a world away from what we can see in the city.

Another early, but relaxing start and we begin the six-odd hour journey back to Sydney.

It's much better suited to a long weekend given the distance from Sydney, but we make the most of the journey back by stopping off for a spot of sand boarding with Port Stephens 4WD Tours.

The writer was a guest of Destination NSW.

BEST OF BELLINGEN

THE PURPLE CARROT

This quirky cafe does cracking good coffee and brekky. 105-109 Hyde Street.

No2 OAK STREET

Awarded a chef's hat in the SMH Good Food Guide for 11 years running, it is great for those wanting something special or who seriously like food. 2 Oak Street.

MOUZA

Expect delicious sharing plates of haloumi, dips and falafel or heartier curries. 58-60 Hyde Street.

MUSIC

For live music and good grub, try trendy 5 Church Street or The Federal Hotel. You can also catch live acts at the Bellingen Community Markets. 5 Church Street and 77 Hyde Street.

DRIVE

Check out the skywalk at the Dorrigo National Park and the swimming hole at the Never Never River in Gleniffer.

TRIP NOTES

GETTING THERE

About halfway between Sydney and Brisbane, Bellingen is 30minutes from Coffs Harbour airport, and 20minutes from Urunga railway station.

165 Hydes Creek Road, Bellingen.

HOW MUCH

$250 a night for the cottage. Other rooms start from $100 a night.

SHAME ABOUT

Lack of an organic, gourmet brekky spread given the owners' passion for organic, gourmet food.

PERFECT FOR

Groups of friends or couples, families, weddings.

KUDOS

The sparkling pool, the magnificent view and the delightful hosts.

MORE INFORMATION

northfarm.com.au; visitnsw.com.

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