Outlook Hill, Healesville review: Positive outlook

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This was published 14 years ago

Outlook Hill, Healesville review: Positive outlook

Fine blend ... Yering Station, a historic winery with modern architecture

Fine blend ... Yering Station, a historic winery with modern architecture

Gary Munro finds shelter from the rain in a homely winery cottage.

The weather's foul. The wind is howling, the rain driving, the temperature surely in single figures. A dash to the car will result in a drenching.

It is fortunate, then, that we're ensconced in our cottage at Outlook Hill winery in the Yarra Valley, with its sweeping views over lush fields, warmed by the wood burner and glued to the AFL grand final, sampling a bottle of the winery's own red and eating local cheese. It could be worse.

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We'd arrived for our weekend away mid-afternoon the previous day, the weather no better but working-week worries fading. The key is in the door for us but is confusingly labelled "Shona"; not my wife's name, nor mine, last I checked. A short walk to the cellar door and restaurant to inquire — our cottage, Pinot, is the closest of the three — and it's quickly cleared up.

It also offers a chance to check out the restaurant, for which we have a booking (our weekend package includes $100 towards lunch or dinner). It's rather impressive: leather couches, a bar with an espresso machine, a tasting area, tables set with linen and gleaming glassware, and a view as spectacular as that from the cottages. There's a small terrace that would be fabulous in summer but there's no way the doors are being opened to let the outside in today.

Back at the cottage, we settle in. The cathedral ceiling adds to the spaciousness of the large living area and there are all the comforts of home: couches sandwiching a coffee table with magazines and books, split-cycle heating and cooling, a TV and DVD player, a small table and chairs and decent cooking facilities, including a microwave (but no oven). A selection of tea bags, "proper" coffee and a plunger are nice touches.

Also generous is the tray of provisions, which includes bread, cereal, fruit and a handful of chocolates. Beside it is a bottle of Outlook Hill red. On the bench we find the fresh eggs, and in the fridge are bacon, milk, yoghurt and orange juice. Breakfast is sorted. Through the french doors is the bedroom and en suite, dominated by a corner double spa-bath mounted so high that a ladder wouldn't go astray.

We're not so keen on the colour scheme throughout, a shade of lemon almost identical to our home's living area — before we painted over it.

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But any minor quibbles are made all the more inconsequential by looking out the window to the cottages' rear. There, the mere width of the road away, is the legacy of the Black Saturday fires. The trees are blackened, a sobering reminder of that fateful February day and of how close so many others came to losing their livelihoods, or worse.

When asked later about the threat to the winery, co-owner Lydia Snow says the flames were "all around". The fruit on the vines was lost and now, like many in the valley, they're trying to rebuild. The encouraging signs are there in the spring lushness of the surrounds and the regeneration of the trees.

We return to the restaurant, between pelting rain showers, for our meal. It is quiet – us, the owners and friends, another couple also staying in the cottages – relaxed and the fare is excellent. Kiwi chef Jason Flygenring is aiming high and it shows in his food. The crispy pork belly, sauteed scallops, cauliflower puree and nashi pear, in particular, is terrific.

The following day dawns wet and grey but no matter. We have few plans apart from driving the short distance to Healesville to pick up snacks and dinner supplies. On another day, particularly with our children in tow, we might have considered checking out the wildlife sanctuary. Not this time – I get drenched running, six-pack in hand, from the White Rabbit brewery to our car.

We're away for a couple of hours, and are relieved to return and hunker down for the game.

The evening is spent catching up on DVDs and reading the paper. It's hardly Saturday night on the town but listening to the wind howling in the dark, we know where we'd prefer to be.

After a sound night's sleep in the super-comfortable queen bed, with requisite sleep-in, there's little to do but have breakfast and organise ourselves for the 11am checkout – although we get the impression we need not rush.

We say our goodbyes and head back to Healesville for lunch at the bustling Giant Steps/Innocent Bystander complex. We have excellent bread, dips and pizza washed down with a glass of crispy white before we hit the road with the intention of a drive in the direction of Kinglake but although the downy foliage is returning to the trees, the destruction wrought by the bushfires is all too evident. With the rain still falling, time getting on and our children back in Melbourne, we hit the highway and head for home.

VISITORS' BOOK

Outlook Hill

Address 97 School Lane, Healesville.

Bookings Phone 5962 2890 or see www.outlookhill.com.au.

Getting there Healesville is about 65 kilometres from Melbourne. School Lane is off Healesville-Yarra Glen Road.

How much? Pinot and Vine cottages $620, Chocolate cottage $650 for a two-night weekend stay (includes bottle of wine and a $100 meal voucher for two in Outlook Hill Restaurant); midweek rates are $215/$400 (Pinot and Vine) and $240/$470 (Chocolate). Children over 9 years, $20 a night, additional adults $30 a night.

Summary Ideal for a relaxing weekend away, particularly if you don't want to venture hours from the city. Great views, friendly staff, good food and wine (the $100 voucher is generous) and the comforts of home make for a fine experience.

Verdict 18

The score: 19-20 excellent; 17-18 great; 15-16 good; 13-14 comfortable.

All weekends away are conducted anonymously and paid for by Traveller.

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