This was published 13 years ago
Paradise, untouched
Post-Cyclone Yasi, Port Douglas is not only open for business, it's positively booming, writes Zoe Smith.
Among the world's best ... Four Mile Beach, Port Douglas.
Cycling along the iconic Four Mile Beach at Port Douglas, it's hard not to feel that all is good with the world.
Maybe it's got something to do with the sparkling waters framed by the majestic rainforest surrounds and soaring palms.
It could be the welcoming, cheerful locals - without a doubt the friendliest, most down-to-earth folk I've had the pleasure of meeting on my travels.
Whatever it is, I've succumbed.
It's impossible to comprehend that Cyclone Yasi came within an inch of this place. She may have wreaked havoc south of Cairns but up here in Port Douglas, the devastation seems a world away.
As the locals explain, Yasi, in all her fury, came close to Port Douglas but, thankfully, didn't hang around. A couple of trees blew over and that's about it. The area remains an untouched paradise.
Beach bikers ... touring Port Douglas on two wheels.
The locals know just how lucky they are and they want us southerners to know that Port Douglas is not only open for business, it's positively booming.
The theme of Tourism Queensland's latest Tropical North Queensland campaign is 'adventurous by nature'. And it's pretty fitting.
There must be something in the water in this magical, thrilling place - I've only been here for a few hours and grey, drizzly Melbourne already seems like a distant memory.
Keepers from the Wildlife Habitat sanctuary in Port Douglas.
Feeling relaxed yet recharged, a sense of adventure has grabbed me and taken hold. How else can I explain how I ended up with a carpet python called Gertie draped around my shoulders just minutes after handling a strangely beguiling baby crocodile? But more of that later.
A great way to get an overview of the town is by bicycle.
Tour guide Matt Carman, from Back Country Bliss Adventures, takes my group on a route that starts on Four Mile Beach, which is regularly rated one of the world's best.
We then wind our way through the magnificent Sheraton Mirage resort – the grand old dame of Port Douglas that still retains her aura of decadent glamour after all these years.
This is where the rich and famous come to party – our Kylie is a regular guest and other notables include Mick Jagger and Bill Clinton. If only those walls could talk.
At the other end of the spectrum, a stop-off at Port Douglas cemetery offers a fascinating insight into the town's history. Walking through the graveyard, perusing the headstones and imagining the hardships and experiences of the town's early pioneers, it's impossible not to feel humbled.
Continuing the getting back to nature vibe, I visit the Wildlife Habitat, one of far north Queensland's most iconic tourist attractions and home to the state's largest range of kangaroos.
There's a lovely sense of freedom in being able to wander through at leisure and hand-feed the utterly adorable wallabies.
I also get to grips with the aforementioned Gertie the carpet python - all seven kilograms of her.
Her skin is surprisingly smooth and there's no underestimating the power of her muscular beauty.
Despite the sweat forming on my brow, Gertie's keeper Clare assures me that I'm "doing fine" and encourages me to overcome my innate fear of all things reptilian and get tactile with my new mate.
General manager Garry Sullivan and his team are committed to the conservation of native species via the sanctuary's Wildlife Rescue program, looking after injured, orphaned or sick animals.
The sanctuary's Lunch with the Lorikeets provides another opportunity to get close to nature.
There's nothing quite like tucking into a classic Aussie barbie buffet under a canopy surrounded by cockatoos, curlews, parrots and herons.
Heading back to my private lagoon swimming pool at the luxurious Sea Temple Resort & Spa, I start to plan my next visit.
The ten-day Carnivale festival, which starts on May 19, is the town's showcase event of the year, the coming together of the best that Port Douglas has to offer – fine dining, sport and the great outdoors.
Bring it on.
The writer travelled as a guest of Tourism Queensland.
FAST FACTS
Getting there
Virgin Blue has a fare from Melbourne to Cairns for $198 and from Sydney for $165. Qantas also flies non-stop from both cities.
Exemplar Coaches and Limousines provides coach transfers from Cairns to Port Douglas ($33 adult, $20 children). Phone (07) 4098 5473, see www.exemplaronline.com.au
Staying there
The Sea Temple Resort & Spa's Carnivale Package offers two nights in a luxury Studio Spa Room with full buffet breakfast included. Also included in the package are unlimited transfers around Port Douglas on the Port Douglas shuttle.
From $329 per night for two adults. Valid for travel from May 19 to May 29. For reservations call 1 800 833 762 and use the promotion code: CARNIVAL
More information
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