Port Fairy

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This was published 15 years ago

Port Fairy

Port Fairy (including Lady Julia Percy Island)
Attractive and historic port on the coast to the west of the Great Ocean Road.
Port Fairy is one of those delightful towns where you feel as though if you stay another day you suddenly find a whole extra world of things to see and do. There are museums, historic walks, pleasant stretches of coastline, a fascinating harbour, charming olde worlde cottages which gleam in the sun and the Port Fairy Folk Festival (in March) is recognised as the best of its kind in Australia.

Port Fairy is located 290 km west of Melbourne on the eastern headland of Portland Bay. It was inhabited by the Knarn Kolak Aborigines long before the arrival of Europeans. They lived a simple life beside the sea and their middens testify to the success of their fishing.

In the earliest years of the nineteenth century whalers and sealers worked along this stretch of rugged coastline. Seals were used for their leather and oil and whales were vital parts of the corset, perfume and soap industries.

As early as 1810 Captain James Wishart, a sealer working the southern coast, anchored at Port Fairy. He explored the Moyne River and revisited the area regularly. By the mid-1820s the 'harbour' was known as Port Fairy, probably after Wishart's cutter 'The Fairy'.

It is known that by 1835 a whaling station had been established on the island at the mouth of the Moyne River. It was purchased by John Griffiths who has given his name to the island. It was around this time that two sealers, John and Charles Mills, built simple huts on Griffiths Island which stands at the mouth of the Moyne River. As the seals in the area were killed off the Mills brothers moved over to whaling and they were active in the area until whaling ceased in 1843. The whalers built the distinctive bluestone cottages which are still dotted throughout the town. The houses of both John and Charles Mills still stand in the town.

By 1839 John Cox, who has sailed across Bass Strait from Launceston, opened a store on the site which is now the corner of Cox and Gipps Streets.

The town began to grow in the early 1840s. In 1843 a Sydney solicitor James Atkinson purchased 5120 acres (2072 hectares) of land at Port Fairy for £1 per acre. He converted the sealing community into a modern port by draining the swamps around the town, subdividing and selling/leasing the land and building the harbour on the Moyne River. So proud was Atkinson of his handiwork that he decided to rename the town Belfast, after the Irish city which he called home. A similar project was undertaken by William Rutledge who had also received 5120 acres in 1843. The result was that Belfast became the largest privately-owned town in Australia and the few local residents, who had simply squatted prior to Atkinson's purchase, suddenly found themselves paying rent to their new landlord.

As a result agriculture in the area developed rapidly and there were years when up to 20 vessels came to Port Fairy just to load the onions and potatoes for sale in Melbourne. By 1857 there were 2190 people living in Belfast. It wasn't until 1887 that the town was renamed Port Fairy, this was as a result of a special act of parliament.

Today Port Fairy prospers on a combination of tourism and fishing. It still boasts one of Victoria's largest fishing fleets. The seas provide good catches of shark (it is a deep sea angler's delight), crayfish and abalone.


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Things to see:

Historic Walks
The Port Fairy Visitor Information Centre in Bank Street has extensive information about the town. Of particular interest are the brochures which outline suitable historic walks around the town. There are over 50 historic buildings in Port Fairy and it makes sense to get a map and a brochure before attempting to explore them. There is a brochure which nominates only 13 which is manageable for those who do not wish to see all the important buildings in town.

Port Fairy History Centre
Located in Gipps Street the History Centre has a good display of memorabilia and photographs which capture a sense of what the town was like in the late 19th and early 20th century. It is located on the old Court House which dates from 1859 and is a fine example of a design by the Public Works Department which was built out of local bluestone. It was once the home of sittings for the Supreme Court, Quarter Sessions and the Magistrates Court. It is huge and the ceilings are a reminder of the importance of the town when the building was completed. It is open Wednesdays and weekends 2:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m.; daily during school holidays. Other times by appointment.

Port Fairy Wharves
In many ways the greatest attraction of Port Fairy is simply to park your car down beside the Moyne River and go for a walk. The walk along the wharves is delightful and can take you up into the town (if you head north) or towards Griffiths Island if you head south. The wharves are used by casual anglers as well as the commercial anglers who bring their catch in from the Southern Ocean.

Griffiths Island
If you continue south on Gipps Street you will reach a point where you can walk across a footbridge to Griffiths Island. This is a delightful way to spend a few hours. There is a track around the island which includes the Mutton Bird Viewing point and the lighthouse on the island's eastern extremity.

The island has an interesting history. It was known as 'mallin' or 'mallone' by the local Aborigines. By 1836 there was a whaling station on the island and one of the partners running it was John Griffiths after whom the island is now named. By around 1850 a Mrs Dunlop had established a mission to Aborigines on the island. This lasted until about 1853. The current appearance of the island is partly due to the construction of a breakwater which silted up and created a situation where the part of the island where the lighthouse is actually connected with the main part of the island. The island is home to a large colony of muttonbirds (short-tailed shearwaters). The birds arrive within three days of the 22 September each year, settle in last year's burrow, mate in early November, the eggs are laid around 25 November and take around a month to hatch which means that the young start to appear in mid-January. In mid-April the birds head off on their annual migration around the Pacific. They travel an estimated 15,000 km in two months. Viewing the birds from the platform on Griffiths Island is best at dusk between September and April.

ANZ Bank
Originally known as The Colonial Bank this simple and gracious building opened its doors to the public in 1856. It is a classical Georgian design with a Georgian fanlight complementing the doorway, arched windows and iron railings around the outside. Constructed of dark bluestone and panelled inside with hardwood it was designed to serve the local farmers much more than the local whalers. Its most famous customer was the poet Adam Lindsay Gordon.

Seacombe House
Located on the corner of Sackville and Cox Streets, Seacombe House was completed in 1847 by Captain John Sanders. It was originally known as Stag Hotel and in the 1850s became the centre of the town's social life with an upstairs ballroom being used for dinners and dances. It continued as a hotel until 1873 and then became a guest house and later a boy's school.

Mott's Cottage
No one knows for certain when this historic cottage was built but it was some time in the 1830s or 1840s. The only piece of that original cottage which is left is the timber and stone rubble section. The second storey was added in the 1860s and the back section in the 1880s. Located in Sackville Street, the cottage has been restored as an example of a typical Port Fairy working man's cottage. It is located at 3 Sackville Street.

Emoh
Located at 8 Cox Street this is a fine example of an elaborate merchant's home. It was built around 1847 by William Rutledge who, at the time, was known as the 'King of Port Fairy'. At its peak this was one of the town's most famous residences. Rolf Boldrewood, who wrote 'Robbery Under Arms', recalls the wonderful hospitality that Rutledge offered before his firm crashed in 1862. After that it was a doctor's surgery until it was converted into a Youth Hostel.

The Merrijig Inn
A real insight into the early history of the town the Merrijig Inn, known as 'The Royal Merrijig Inn' when it was first built, was designed to cater for the considerable thirsts of the whalers and sealers who first settled Port Fairy. Over the years this simple building, located on the corner of Campbell and Gibbs Streets, has served as the meeting room for the local council and as a local court house. There was also a time when the authorities occupied the building and turned it into a Police Barracks housing horses as well as twelve policemen - six mounted and six foot soldiers. Over the road is an old iron cannon which was brought to Port Fairy in the 1890s when it was feared that the Russians were going to invade Victoria.

Moyne Mill
Located in Gipps Street near the wharf, the Old Moyne Mill dates from the 1860s. It was built by Dr Alexander Russell and originally it had five storeys. It is a comment on the changing nature of society that in recent times it has been used as a skating rink.

John Mills Cottage
Sometimes known as Captain Mills Cottage this was the home of John Mills, one of the brothers who were the first settlers in Port Fairy. It is located at 40 Gipps Street and is a fine example of a cottage dating from the early 1840s. From this house Mills started his importing business which saw him bringing shoes, rum and building materials to the district.

Star of the West Hotel
Located on the corner of Sackville and Bank Streets, the Star of the West Hotel was completed in 1856 by John Taylor. An impressive and solid basalt building, The Star's main claim to fame was that it was used as the town's Cobb & Co destination and consequently was the centre of the town for many years.

St Patrick's Church
The town's first Catholic Church was a wooden shed. St Patrick's is a comment on the strong Irish community which settled at Port Fairy. It was completed in 1858 at a cost of £6500 to a design by the notable local architect, Nathaniel Billing. The church, which is located on the Princes Highway, was built of basalt and Hobart stone in a typical Gothic Revival Style.

St John's Church of England
The tower of St John's can be seen from most points around the town. This Gothic Revival Church was originally planned to be the main Anglican cathedral in Western Victoria. It was built from 1853-57 of basalt. The carvings were done by local stonemason, Walter McGill, and the architect was the prolific, Nathaniel Billing.

Battery Hill and Fort
This is worth a visit simply because it offers a different perspective on the township. The guns possibly date from the 1860s and are more evidence of the concern about a Russian invasion which swept along this stretch of the coastline. The current guns were installed in 1885 but they have been rarely fired. On one occasion the vibration from the firing was so great that it broke some windows in the Moyne Mill over the river. You have to cross the Moyne to get to Battery Hill.

Woodbine
This was the home of Charles Mills who was one of the original settlers at Port Fairy. The two-storey, five room house with stables was constructed out of limestone rubble in 1845-46 and is an excellent example of Georgian rural architecture. It is one of the oldest farm houses in Victoria. It now stands in splendid isolation on Woodbine Road at Belfast Lough.

Shipwreck Walk
In 1988 the local council developed a walk which was named the 'Shipwreck Walk' and which starts at the local Surf Club (travel north on Gipps Street, cross the Moyne River and turn into Hughes Avenue). The walk is 2.1 km and runs from the Surf Club to the mouth of the Moyne River. The shipwrecks along this short stretch of coastline include (from north to south) the Barque Socrates which was battered and finally destroyed by huge seas in 1843; the Barque Lydia which was wrecked off the coast in 1847; the Schooner Thistle which broke her anchor chain and was wrecked on the coast in 1837 and the Brig. Essington which sank while moored at Port Fairy in 1852.

Botanical Gardens
The Port Fairy Botanical Gardens, in Fairy St, were established when the police paddocks were put aside for that purpose in 1858. The ground was swampy and reclamation work was carried out. Baron von Mueller, the original curator of the Melbourne Botanical Gardens acted as an advisor regarding the initial plantings and it is thought he supplied the aleppo and stone pines which are still growing in the Gardens today. In 1871 the Gardens were enlarged and 100 Norfolk pines planted. The land for the oval was set aside in 1887. An aviary with peacocks was established. However, the area fell into disrepair and work commenced on their revitalisation in 1986.

Lady Julia Percy Island
This volcanic outcrop is located 17 km from Port Fairy. The island is surrounded by almost vertical cliffs which range in height from 32 metres to 46 metres. It is home to rookeries of muttonbirds, kestrels, swamp harriers, sooty oystercatchers and blue penguins. There are also seals which live on the ledges around the shoreline and eat squid and crabs. If the weather is suitable there are trips to the island. Contact (03) 5568 1372 for more details.

Diving
Port Fairy is part of the shipwreck coast and as such has a number of good wrecks which are worth exploring. The wreck of the 'Thistle', which sank off Port Fairy's east beach in 1849, now lies in only 2 metres of water and is popular with scuba divers.


Tourist Information

Port Fairy Visitor Information Centre
22 Bank St
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 2682


Motels

Anchorage Learnean Motel
115 Princes Hwy
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1145
Rating: **

Douglas-On-River Motel
89 Gipps St
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1016
Rating: **

Dublin House Inn
57 Bank St
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1822
Rating: **

Lady Julia Percy Motel
54 Sackville St P.O. Box 73
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1800
Rating: **

Motel Port Fairy
124 Princes Hwy
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1735
Rating: **

Seacombe House Motor Inn
22 Sackville St
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1082
Email: enquiries@seacombehouse.com.au
Rating: ***

Caledonian Inn Motel/Hotel
Cnr Bank & James Sts
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1044
Rating: **


Hotels

Oscars Waterfront Boutique Hotel
41B Gipps St
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 3022
Facsimile: (03) 5568 3042
Email: info@oscarswaterfront.com
Rating: ****

Royal Oak Hotel Port Fairy
9 Bank St
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1018
Rating: *

Seacombe House Private Hotel
22 Sackville St
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1082
Rating: *


Bed & Breakfast/Guesthouses

Oscars Waterfront Boutique Hotel
41B Gipps St
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 3022
Facsimile: (03) 5568 3042
Email: info@oscarswaterfront.com
Rating: ****

Cherry Plum Cottage Bed & Breakfast
Albert Rd
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 2433
Rating: ***

Clonmara Bed & Breakfast
106 Princes Hwy
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 2595
Email: clonmara@bigpond.com
Rating: ****

Cona Point Fairy Bed & Breakfast
Cnr Princes Hwy & Villiers St
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1000<
Rating: ***

Hickory House Bed & Breakfast
4 Princes St
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 2530
Rating: ****

Kilkarlen at Killarney Bed & Breakfast
Survey Lane Killarney 3283
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 7258
Rating: ****

Kingsley Bed & Breakfast
71 Cox St
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1269
Rating: ****

Merrijig Inn Guesthouse
1 Campbell St
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 2324
Rating: ***

Roisheen Bed & Breakfast
RMB 4460 Princes Hwy
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 7303
Rating: ***

The Boathouse on Moyne Bed & Breakfast
19 Gipps St
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 2608
Rating: ***

Gobles Mill House Bed & Breakfast
75 Gipps St P.O. Box 68
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1118
Rating: ***


Apartments

Abavest Holiday Apartments
Bourne Ave
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 7206
Rating: ***

Douglas House Holiday Apartments
89 Gipps St
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1016
Rating: **

Eastern Beach Holiday Apartments
Cnr Griffith St & Bourne Ave
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1117
Rating: ***

Garden Pavilions Holiday Apartments
11 Tieman St
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1045
Rating: ***

Moloney Holiday Apartment
31 Reardon St
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 2795
Rating: ***

Moorings on Moyne Apartments
69A Gipps St
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5561 4690

Mungala Holiday Apartments
192 Griffith St P.O. Box 68
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: *(03) 5568 1118
Rating: ***

Norfolk Pine Holiday Apartments
111 Princes Hwy
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 2296
Rating: ***

Skye Beachfront Retreat
70 Griffith St
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 9482 3492
Rating: ****

Tandara-On-Sea Holiday Apartments
190 Griffith St
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1852
Rating: ***

Terrace Holiday Apartments
106 Griffith St
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1743 or (03) 5568 1510
Rating: ***


Cottages & Cabins

Dublin House Inn Cottage
17 Gipps St
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1822
Rating: ***

Myndarra Cottage
Porters Rd Orford 3284
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 9201
Rating: ***

Port Fairy Colonial Cottages
27 & 49 Regent St
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1234 or 015 568 543
Rating: ***

Railway Cottage
56 Gipps St
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 7345
Rating: ***

Seacombe House Historic Cottage
22 Sackville St
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1082
Rating: ***

Whalers Cottages
Cnr Whalers Dve & Regent St
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1488
Rating: ***


Caravan Parks

Anchorage Learnean Holiday Park
115 Princes Hwy
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1145
Rating: ****

Belfast Cove Caravan Park
139 Princes Hwy
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1816
Rating: ***

Catalina Caravan Park
Princes Hwy
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1608
Rating: ***

Gardens Reserve Caravan Park
111 Griffith St
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1060
Rating: ***

Gum Tree Caravan Park
Toolong Rd P.O. Box 23
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1462
Rating: ***

Southcombe by the Sea Caravan Park
James St P.O. Box 175
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 2677
Rating: ***


Camping & Other

Dublin House Inn Townhouse
57 Bank St
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1822
Rating: ***


Restaurants

Caledonian Inn Restaurant
Cnr Bank & James Sts
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1044

Dublin House Inn Restaurant
Bank St
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1822

Four Seasons Bistro
Sackville St
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1918

Lady Julia Percy Motel
54 Sackville St P.O. Box 73
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1800

Lunch On Bank
Bank St
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 2642

Merrijig Inn Guesthouse
1 Campbell St
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 2324

Port Fairy Pizza & Bistro
Sackville St
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1756

Portofino by the Sea
Bank St
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1047

Seacombe House Motor Inn
22 Sackville St
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1082

The Stag Restaurant
Sackville St
Port Fairy VIC 3284
Telephone: (03) 5568 1077


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