The Strand, Yangon, Myanmar review: Historic opulence with five-star service

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This was published 7 years ago

The Strand, Yangon, Myanmar review: Historic opulence with five-star service

By Sue Bennett
The colonnaded entrance at The Strand, Yangon: A splendid lobby of great size and elegance while unashamedly reminiscent of a bygone era.

The colonnaded entrance at The Strand, Yangon: A splendid lobby of great size and elegance while unashamedly reminiscent of a bygone era.

Many factors determine the journeys we make. In the late 18th century, a group of Iranian-born brothers looked to the east, predicted a dramatic growth in trade and, with it, a need for luxury hotels. They travelled to Penang and, 32 years later, had opened three hotels that would become icons of Colonial times: Raffles Hotel in Singapore, the Eastern and Oriental in Penang and The Strand in Rangoon, now Yangon.

The trigger for their enterprise was the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869. It cut the sailing time between Europe and Asia by 10 days, and 6388 nautical miles, and while Paris and London at that time offered luxurious hotels such as the Ritz and Savoy with splendid bathrooms, visitors to Asia could expect little more than a ladle and water for showers in basic guesthouses.

The astute Sarkies brothers created architectural landmarks of great opulence and, in time, histories that today's hoteliers continue to trade upon.

Pure elegance: The Strand suite.

Pure elegance: The Strand suite.

Walk through The Strand's colonnaded entrance into a splendid lobby of great size and elegance while unashamedly reminiscent of a bygone era. Rattan chairs sit on marble floors, black and white prevails while ceiling fans hum overhead in the adjoining cafe and teakwood-panelled Sarkies Bar.

The 31-suite hotel has just undergone a six-month renovation that lets its guests travel back to a time when a butler is present on each floor to let you into your room, serves tea at all times and replenishes the ice and lime for gin and tonic from cut glass on a silver tray. And there's none of that miniature bottle nonsense, rather a decent sized Gordons. Plus bottles of vodka and Scotch if you really must.

A superior suite is the smallest room on offer but at 55 square metres, comprises entrance hall, tiled bathroom with separate tub and shower plus an elegant, antique-filled room of great size with bed and sitting area with comfy sofa and two matching chairs.

The 28-cabin ship has a pool, gym sauna and spa.

The 28-cabin ship has a pool, gym sauna and spa.

Guests won't find any 21st century affectations like a swimming pool or gym. There's a spa but it's in a converted suite.

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No stay would be complete without following in the footsteps of author Rudyard Kipling and playwright Noel Coward and sinking a Strand sour in Sarkies Bar or taking high tea in the cafe.

Stepping beyond the front door, it's tempting to think some things haven't changed since their visits. If local government plans come to pass, a park will replace the building site opposite creating direct access to Yangon River. Take a slightly more circuitous route today for a $4 return ferry ride to Dalla shanty town. There's reserved seating for "monks and foreigners".

The Strand's refined lobby.

The Strand's refined lobby.

The Ayeyarwady, formerly Irrawaddy, River is Myanmar's principal waterway with tourist cruises now making their contribution to its commercial importance.

Colonial masters must have dreamed of making the 560-kilometre journey from Rangoon to Mandalay in hours not days but take a 90-minute flight, board the Strand Cruise and the trip back in time to a so-called golden age of travel continues.

The 61-metre, 28-cabin ship was built in 2015 so has none of the legacy constraints of the hotel. There's a pool, gym and spa but, for me, lying on a chaise lounge on the sundeck and watching river life pass by, is all it takes to make me happy.

We make regular sorties onshore as we progress down the wide, shallow river to Bagan. Memorable stops include the ancient imperial capital Ava, accessed by horse-drawn cart and the 1.2-kilometre teakwood U Bein Bridge but the best comes last, the former capital Bagan and its 2000 temples, stupas and pagodas.

For those wanting to visit Myanmar and get a glimpse into the Colonial world of yesterday without forsaking five-star luxury, the Strand is at your service.

TRIP NOTES

MORE

traveller.com.au/myanmar

FLY

No airlines fly direct to Yangon from Australia but Qantas/Jetstar and Singapore Airlines are among those offering connections. Bagan and Mandalay are accessed by a range of internal airlines.

STAY

The Strand hotel, in the city centre, is 20km, or about 30 minutes' drive, from Yangon airport. A superior suite, including breakfast, costs from $473 a night. See hotelthestrand.com

STAY AND CRUISE

The three-night Strand cruise from Mandalay to Bagan costs from $1762 per person, twin share, and the four-night cruise, in the opposite direction, costs from $1995 per person, twin share. The price includes return domestic flights from Yangon and two nights' accommodation at The Strand hotel, including breakfast. Inquire about themed photographic, culinary and classical music cruises. See thestrandcruise.com

Sue Bennett travelled with the assistance of The Strand Hotel and Cruise.

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