Pacific paradise ... a Catholic church in Taveuni is framed by dense greenery.Credit: AFP
Forget the lost luggage, Erin O'Dwyer doesn't have a care in the world as she combs beaches, snorkels the reefs and dines with locals on Fiji's remotest islands.
IMAGINE a tropical island, lush with palms and papaya trees. This is Wailagilala Island - Fiji's most remote atoll, in the far north-east on the edge of international waters. A rusting lighthouse marks its former glory as a maritime landmark. And in its green waters, baby reef sharks feed among colourful coral.
As soon as I step on to Captain Cook Cruises' MV Reef Escape, the stresses of city life all but disappear. In fact, it begins the moment I step off the plane in Fiji's tourist capital, Nadi. There are coconut palms, an islander band and a string of shells around my neck. I'm on the way to see some of Fiji's most remote and seldom-visited islands and not even my friend's missing luggage causes stress.
She buys a new bikini and sarong (what else does a woman need?) and we board a smaller flight to join our cruise ship, docked at lush Taveuni Island. The tiny twin-prop plane takes us over the cloud-hugged highlands of Fiji's big island - Viti Levu. It's a bumpy ride but worth it. Villagers working the land or bathing in creeks look up and wave as we fly towards the white ship looming on the horizon.
"Bula!" they yell at us.
"Bula!" we yell back. It is a word of welcome no visitor to Fiji should forget. We are joining the seven-night Dateline Cruise, operated by Australian company Captain Cook Cruises in Fiji's north. The publicity flyer boasts that we will visit places where there are no postcards. It does not disappoint. The 120-berth cruise liner sets sail from Viti Levu, then meanders its way around Wailagilala, Mamanuca and Ovalau islands. On Taveuni Island, passengers can tour coconut farms and fishing villages that have the unique honour of straddling the International Date Line.
We join the cruise a few days late and spend our first afternoon swanning around the ship's decks and dining rooms. We realise quickly that the ship's best asset is its friendly local crew. They remember our names and our favourite cocktails. But most importantly, they help give us a unique entree into the real Fiji.
Our first evening we are welcomed into Naselesele village on Taveuni's north-eastern tip to share a traditional meal with 100-odd villagers. The children seem more excited than us, barefoot and bright-eyed in their hibiscus-patterned best.
We taste sweet potato, pork and the local white fish, walu - all cooked in an earth oven, or lovo, and served with stewed palm fronds. We also try kava, a much-loved alcoholic brew made from roots. It tastes like mud and is mouth-numbing like nothing else. Three bowls and my entire head feels numb. But it sets the scene for the party atmosphere. We take our seats on the timber floor of the rough-built community hall and watch the evening unfold as it has done for hundreds of years.
The village chiefs sip the muddy drink from coconut bowls as the young men put on a spectacular dance ceremony, or meke. Little boys become frightening warriors as they don grass skirts and wave spears. Women, sitting cross-legged on woven mats, transport us to the high seas only by the dancing of their hands.
Captain Cook Cruises prides itself on being culturally sensitive and it's evident in how we are welcomed on land. After a few days at sea, we are welcomed back on Taveuni and into the nearby village of Wairiki for a Catholic mass. The missionaries that arrived in the 1840s left an enduring legacy, not the least of which was an end to cannibalism. A lone guitar accompanies the choir and the humble hymns of my childhood seem exotic in the mouths of islanders.
Later, we cannot help laughing as we watch the priest descend from the altar and shrug off his robes to reveal work shorts and a singlet. He holds a cigarette in one hand and the collection plate in the other. He smiles and thanks us for coming.
Captain Cook Cruises began the exclusive Dateline Cruise five years ago. The ship travels four times a year to Taveuni, which has a population of just 10,000 people, and is the only cruise liner to do so.
The Fiji archipelago comprises 300 islands but just 100 are inhabitable. Most travellers go no further than the two largest, Viti Levu and Vanua Levu, or the resorts of the western Yasawa Islands.
The highlight of the cruise is visiting the small uninhabited islands, where we lose hours at a time beachcombing, snorkelling and swimming. Shafts of light pierce the crystal waters as rainbow fish dart in and out of the coral.
On Wailagilala Island we watch angelfish sleeping side by side. The island is about two kilometres across and lush with palms, mangroves and papaya trees. It is the last island before international waters and more beautiful than any postcard I have seen. Snorkelling is at its world-class best on Manava Cay, another picture-perfect island. Its waters are pure turquoise and the sand is white. We paddle in the shallow lagoon, marvelling at the blue starfish and orange sea cucumbers.
Back on board, we barely bother to change our swimmers. The ship has a pool and extensive decks with loungers facing the sea. The staterooms are neat and compact, with floor-to-ceiling windows to take advantage of the views.
Good food is a part of Fijian life - and so it is on board. Meals are prepared from fresh local produce and served alfresco, at casual barbecues or in the formal dining room, depending on the mood.
Too soon it is time to say vinaka (thank you) and ni sa moce (farewell) and contemplate returning to our crazy city lives. A tiny piece of Wailagilala Island comes home with me - a picture that's the best screensaver ever.
The writer travelled courtesy of Captain Cook Cruises and Air Pacific
Trip notes
Getting there
Air Pacific flies daily from Sydney to Nadi priced from $478 return, including taxes, until the end of May. www.airpacific.com.
Get on board Captain Cook Cruises' seven-night Northern Fiji Dateline Cruise on the MV Reef Escape.
How much
Stateroom berths are $3149 a person, twin-share, with early bird specials available. Children aged three to 17 are $649 or from $1298 for a bunk cabin for two or more children. Prices include transfers to Nadi, meals, snorkelling, village visits and facilities. www.captaincook.com.au.
When to go
The dry season is from May to November with an average daily temperature of 27 degrees and 19 degrees at night. Fiji Visitors Bureau, bulafiji.com.
With the kids
Children under three travel free aboard the MV Reef Escape but children eight and older will get the most out of the cruise. Snorkelling among the fish and coral, as well as beachcombing and village visits, will be their highlights. The small confines of the ship might prove frustrating for some children, so families should be sure to pack lots of diversions. Full-day child minding is available for parents who want to relax, although the staff happily take little ones under their wing.
The ship
There's something exciting about staying in a ship's cabin. Staterooms on board the MV Reef Escape are a generous 12 square metres but space is still of the essence. Wardrobes are folded longways into walls and en suite bathrooms, with all the usual fittings, are tucked neatly into the rear of the cabin. The floor-to-ceiling windows provide views from the bed but there are curtains for privacy.
Captain Cook Cruises prides itself on its small ship — there are only 60 cabins and a maximum of about 120 guests at any time. Despite that, there's plenty of room to move. The MV Reef Escape has five decks, including an expansive upper sun deck and a lower deck with library for on-board talks and lectures, plus spa and sauna.
The pool area on the promenade deck is small but it's within easy reach of the cocktail bar. Inside, on the main deck, the single-sitting buffet dining room means sitting next to the captain one day and a family from the US the next. Upstairs, the piano bar is cosier, with plush seats, a baby grand piano and evening entertainment from the crew. Take your pick from the traditional bar or share kava with the Fijian crew. The day spa and a mini gym are recent additions.
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