Sanctuary Ananda river ship: The easy way to see Myanmar

If you can make the difficult appear effortless, you've got a successful tourism product. That's a big if, however, when operating a river-cruise ship in Myanmar, where your first challenge is finding somewhere to dock. In Mandalay, I'm deposited from an airport transfer onto a dilapidated pavement by the Irrawaddy River. Cracked steps lead down an embankment and onto a rusty pontoon, beyond which Sanctuary Ananda gleams, as incongruous as a movie star in a shanty town.

Being sucked back into the ship's airconditioned order at the end of each day's sightseeing is a relief, and this oasis of luxury seldom falters in supplying First-World comforts and service. During my week's cruise I frequently speculate about the challenges of training waiters, keeping showers gushing and supplying a continuity of quality lamb and blue cheese. Most passengers take these things for granted, which is as it should be. Sanctuary Ananda is a swan serenely afloat, surely concealing a frantic paddling beneath.

The Irrawaddy River itself is a big challenge. It's shallow and sandbank prone, and village watercraft and huge rafts of reeds are random hazards. The ship has a shallow draught (just 1.5 metres) and sails only during the day, with the added bonus that we never miss passing scenery. It can nudge riverbanks to let down its gangplank. Just as well: there are no docking facilities in Bagan, where we disembark onto a river beach fringed by reeds, where women slap washing and fishermen mend nets. There is an adventurous edge to this cruise, in a country only recently launching itself into tourism.

There is no compromise on board, however. The 46-passenger Sanctuary Ananda resembles a 1930s river steamer and has a stately, old-fashioned style and a distinctively Burmese look in teak and lacquerware. Its lobby and small library are adorned with lidded trays, statues, frog drums and old metal gongs. Many of the hand-woven textiles used in cushions and sofa covers are ethnic Shan and Karen textiles.

The library has a book selection that offers far more than the usual trashy novels; I'm soon engrossed in George Orwell's Burmese Days. There is also a small spa and a lounge bar with sociable groupings of armchairs. The lounge leads out to a deck with a plunge pool and a scattering of plantation chairs facing the passing scenery.

Talifoo Restaurant is another exceedingly pleasant space, with windows on either side and paper umbrellas forming colourful patterns on the walls. Tables for four and several tables for two allow intimate dining. Executive chef Sumet Sumpachanyanont is Thai and spent 20 years at the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok. Western dishes lack oomph; stick to south-east Asian food for a sensational dining experience. There is always a choice of vegetarian dishes and Myanmar local specialties such as pickled tealeaf salad or tofu curry. At breakfast you can try mohinga – noodle soup in fish broth.

Lunchtime buffets are truly excellent. Salads might include banana flower and artichoke; seared tuna loin with spicy mango; crispy morning glory with Thai tom-yam dressing. Hot main courses run from Cantonese roast duck and chicken tikka masala to grilled river prawn with chilli-lime sauce, or stir-fried pumpkin with green papaya. The good organic tea and coffee are both from Myanmar; surprisingly, so is the decent Myanmar sauvignon blanc and dessert wine.

Sanctuary Ananda has 21 suites, all with balcony; four luxury suites have a convertible bed for children, and two pairs of cabins interconnect for families. Abundant wood, interesting metal bedside lamps and attractive vintage photography give cabins a vaguely colonial air. My top deck cabin (number 307) would be decent in size for a hotel room, and on a river-cruise ship is positively extravagant. It has a walk-in closet and desk (or dressing table) though, for such a large cabin, it's a pity there is no armchair; only luxury suites have an interior sitting area.

The en suite is a proper, full-sized bathroom nicely decorated with patterned tiles and slatted teak, and has a narrow window looking onto the river. Natural light and space are rare on river-cruise ships, and it's wonderful to emerge from a shower without bruised elbows. I can brush my teeth and gaze out at the big sluggish Irrawaddy and the gleaming hills beyond: an effortless way to travel that produces a big pearly smile.