This was published 7 years ago
Seven dishes you must try in Portland, Oregon: Chef Bonnie Morales, Kachka
By Julietta Jameson
Caviar & Roe yeasted blini, challah, chive, butter, sieved egg.
The first-generation American daughter of Belarusian immigrants, chef Bonnie Morales (nee Frumkin) honed her skills in several of New York and Chicago's Michelin starred restaurants including Tru, where she met her husband and business partner, Israel Morales. In 2014, the Morales opened Russia and former Soviet-inspired Kachka, which has since received much acclaim and accolades. Their first cookbook, Kachka: A Return to Russian Cooking, is out in September, 2017 from Flatiron Books. See kachkapdx.com
EGG SANDWICH, FRIED EGG I'M IN LOVE
From this food truck devoted to egg sandwiches, I love the Yolko Ono: a fried egg, parmesan, griddled breakfast sausage, and pesto sandwich. It is a very satisfying way to start out the day when I'm on the run. See friedegglove.com
Olympia goods
FRIED OYSTERS, WAYFINDER
One of the best breweries in town for food is Wayfinder. It's a newer addition with some outstanding food options. Their fried oysters are fantastic. Bonus points for one of the nicest outdoor patios around. See wayfinder.beer
SAUCISSON SEC, OLYMPIA PROVISIONS
Sauvie Island strawberries
Olympia Provisions' Saucisson Sec is by far my favourite cured meat around and it also happens to be made by some of the nicest and most hard working people around – and it's made right here in Portland. Available at specialty markets all around town – though I do most of my groceries at New Seasons Market which carries a wide selections of Olympia Provisions products. Note: this can also be bought at the Portland Farmers Market and at Olympia Provisions restaurants. See olympiaprovisions.com
CANELE, COURIER COFFEE ROASTERS
Courier Coffee is an absolutely fantastic coffee roaster. Getting outstanding coffee is already victory enough in my book, but they happen to also make the best canele around. An arduous feat given that they are not a bakery and do not employ a pastry chef. The owner, Joel, is a chemistry wiz and has applied his smarts to engineering the perfect canele. See couriercoffeeroasters.com
HOOD STRAWBERRIES
Portland is well known for its berry produce – blackberries, boysenberries, strawberries – there are too many to choose from. But I would say my first love was the Hood strawberry. I would not be exaggerating when I say that my first bite of a ripe, Hood strawberry off the vine while standing in a strawberry field on Sauvie Island was so magical, that it is actually what made me want to move to Portland. If you happen to be here in May and June when they are in season, and you eat a Hood strawberry, you might find that you never want to leave. And there are lots of lovely things to cook with these transcendent berries, but there is simply nothing better than eating them still warm from the sun, right off the vine. See travelportland.com
KING SALMON ROE, KACHKA
My favourite thing to make at Kachka is to process and cure my own king salmon roe. I love taking advantage of having fresh local seafood and curing salmon roe is the purest expression of that. It is impossible to cure your own roe from anything less than the most fresh and perfect fish and we are spoiled with amazing salmon in Oregon.
MUSSELS, LA MOULE
La Moule mussels are plump and always perfectly cooked. They offer several different preparations, but I like to go with the classic Mariniere style. And they are open till midnight every day, making them a go-to spot post work for Israel and me. And they have the absolute best wallpaper. See lamoulepdx.com
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