Shangri-La Bosphorus review, Istanbul, Turkey: Charm and comfort

We’re sorry, this feature is currently unavailable. We’re working to restore it. Please try again later.

Advertisement

This was published 9 years ago

Shangri-La Bosphorus review, Istanbul, Turkey: Charm and comfort

 Kate Cox finds a perfect sanctuary from the frenetic energy of Istanbul.

On the water: The Shangri-La Bosphorus in Istanbul.

On the water: The Shangri-La Bosphorus in Istanbul.

THE LOCATION

It's the people I notice first. The sheer, heaving mass of them.

Istanbul, population 14 million and counting, is bursting at the seams. The last 30 years have seen phenomenal growth, with buildings and roads popping up haphazardly and busy newish apartments and five-star hotels crammed up against historic palaces and mosques.

Loading

Getting around is an adventure in itself: a cacophony of shouts, honks and near-misses – and, if you are on wheels, waiting endlessly in snarling traffic queues.

In the middle of all this action, the Shangri-La Bosphorus is a sanctuary of luxurious Asian calm and elegant, friendly service. It's in the Besiktas district on the European side of Istanbul, close to many of the key attractions and people hubs (its closest neighbours are the PM's office, the maritime museum and the Dolmabahce Palace). Built last year, it snuggles right on the Bosphorus Sea: my room is above a busy ferry wharf, with stunning views of the strait and of Bosphorus Bridge, and the chance to spy on a steady stream of tourists and locals jumping on ferries bound for the Asian side of Istanbul.

There are people everywhere, all the time. One night, after dinner, we stroll home down the main pedestrian-only hill – with bursting bars and boutiques to either side. We can hardly move. It feels like we've stumbled into the middle of the most hectic Boxing Day sale. It's busier than Sydney during the bustling Olympics closing ceremony. There are families, girlfriends, laughing guy-gangs, couples holding hands.

Elegant luxury: The rooms are lavish and comfortable.

Elegant luxury: The rooms are lavish and comfortable.

But it's midnight. On a Wednesday.

Advertisement

THE SPACE

The former tobacco warehouse has been completely restored, and mixes Turkish and Asian art and design. Think lots of white, with marble floors and walls, high ceilings and chandeliers, luxurious furniture and furnishings, bright fresh orchids, lush carpets (including in the lifts) and gold-framed mirrors.

Inviting: The indoor pool.

Inviting: The indoor pool.

The luxe theme continues in the spacious rooms. The marble bathrooms have big, rainwater style showers and separate bath.

A few rooms have small balconies, most don't. There's no real outdoor space though, so your time here will be all about the inside.

THE KIT

Pack your cossie – the indoor pool is welcoming and meditative, with an attentive attendant and a cloudy mural on the ceiling. There's also a smallish gym and Chi, Shangri-La's signature spa has a mini, beautiful traditional Turkish bath setup.

Wi-Fi is free, there's 24-hour room service and the concierge is extremely helpful.

COMFORT FACTOR

It's all those little comforting extras I remember the most when I leave.

How, when I'm doing laps in the palatial pool, the attendant surreptitiously leaves a water bottle at the end of my lane. After I walk into the Chinese restaurant looking for the fitness centre, the waitress insists on showing me the way. In the gym, there are complimentary headphones on every piece of equipment. My friend idly leafs through a magazine in the fitness centre – "please, take it!", they say.

The rooms are lavish and comfortable, with sumptuous linen and cushions. When I grab a towel after a shower, the rack is heated. There's a subtle night light under the bedside table. There's a free shoe shine service and an airport butler.

FOOD

I've eaten thousands of buffet breakfasts (just ask my waistline) – and this was one of the best. Even by day 3, the kid-in-a-candy store novelty hasn't worn off. There is so much to sample: fresh honey stalls, cheese stalls, bread stalls, separate omelette and pancake makers ... this hotel buffet had it all, with an extra big brunch on Sundays.

After breakfast, this space transforms into a busy Mediterranean/Asian restaurant for lunch and dinner, including a Japanese chef making mouth-watering sushi.

But the flagship, like most Shangri-La hotels, is its Cantonese-themed Chinese restaurant: Shang Palace. It's delicious – Peking Duck, oven-roasted chicken wrapped up in rock salt and spectacular pastry desserts. There's also a private dining room, a Kung Foo Tea Master and a dim sum lunch.

They import Chinese wines, but it's worth trying the Turkish wines recommended by the sommelier. The bar – Le Bar – is on the quiet, small side, albeit with the now-familiar fabulous service. It's worth exploring the bars a bit further afield though for true Turkish nightlife.

WORTH STEPPING OUT FOR

Everything. Walk around. It's confronting at first but becomes a big part of the appeal. People are lively and loud. They get under your skin. It's energising, a refreshing affront to the senses.

It's about a 20-minute drive or an even better ferry ride plus walk to Istanbul's heavy hitters: the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace and the wondrous underground Basilica Cistern.

And no trip to Istanbul is complete without a trip to the Grand Bazaar; the huge, colourful, exciting covered market is about a 15-minute taxi ride or hour-long walk from Shangri-La Bosphorus. If it's all too intimidating, tours are available.

THE VERDICT

Asian elegance and calm meets Turkish energy, with that rare type of service where nothing is too much trouble. The city has a wonderful charm that the hotel enhances.

There's a constant feeling that you're in a history book, that you know the story of these streets.

In a fashion boutique, I spy a T-shirt with the words: "People call it chaos, we call it home". I couldn't live in Istanbul, but it sure is a great place to visit. Especially if you can relax and resuscitate somewhere like the Shangri-La.

HOW TO GET THERE

I arrived from the airport via ferry, meaning we get to pull up at the Shangri-la, Bond Girl style, from the Bosphorus Sea, and then stroll into the reception from the side and via a metal detector. So much of Istanbul is about the water so it's a great way to get there – although slightly convoluted, as we had to take a bus from the airport to the wharf.

You could also catch a taxi, about 45 minutes to the airport in that Istanbul traffic.

ESSENTIALS

Sinanpasa Mah, Hayrettin Iskelesi Sok, No.1, Besiktas, Istanbul, 34353. Rooms cost from $550 a night. See shangri-la.com/istanbul/shangrila/

The writer was a guest of the Shangri-La.

Sign up for the Traveller Deals newsletter

Get exclusive travel deals delivered straight to your inbox. Sign up now.

Most viewed on Traveller

Loading