Glittering stop ... Wat Chedi Luang temple.Credit: iStock
The Golden Triangle is not what it used to be, for better and worse, writes Julie Miller.
IT'S 6pm and the bells of Big Ben are tolling. However, there's no sign of London's famed tower clock or the Houses of Parliament from where I'm sitting - just a golden statue of Buddha and a gauche-looking casino, newly perched on the banks of the Mekong across the way in Laos.
The chimes emanate from there, as incongruous as the tiara-topped building itself - and three gongs ahead of the actual time.
Things have become a lot more glitzy in the Golden Triangle in recent years. Once, the key things that marked the confluence of two rivers and three nations - Thailand, Burma and Laos - was a lively drug trade and the shining seated Buddha, smiling benevolently on the Thais worshipping at his feet.
Now, as the lavender dusk fades and the mosquito buzz of longtail boats ceases for the night, rainbow lights from three mega-casinos, two in Laos and one in Burma, dance on the fast-flowing waters; neon clusters along an otherwise inky jungle representing the capitalistic ambitions of governments searching for the new opium: fast cash from desperate gamblers.
While the jackhammers and bulldozers create Vegas in Laos, development on the Thai side of the border trickles along at a more conservative pace. Although listed in guidebooks as a "tourist trap" - meaning there are souvenir stalls and markets bunched around the Buddha - the official "Golden Triangle" village, Ban Sop Ruak, is still a sleepy backwater relatively untouched by Western influence.
Signs are almost exclusively in Thai, it's next to impossible to find a taxi and farangs (foreigners) still elicit stares in the lonesome bars and restaurants on the main drag.
For most visitors to the north of Thailand, a visit to this ramshackle river town is a whistlestop on an organised day trip, taking in the regional city of Chiang Rai and the ancient capital of Chiang Saen, then a quick stop-off to gawk at the Buddha six kilometres down the road, before heading to the border town of Mae Sae and the Royal Project gardens of Doi Tung.
For those who choose to linger, however - it helps to have your own transport - more intimate nuances are revealed, courtesy of generous locals in the know.
I have parked myself and my trusty hired scooter for a few days at the aptly named Serene Hotel, a modern boutique property in Sop Ruak that fills an essential niche between several budget, Thai-style hotels and two nearby luxury resorts - the much-lauded Four Seasons Tented Camp and the Anantara Golden Triangle. With unbeatable views of the Mekong, a chillout bar and restaurant, a riverside pool and stylish, spacious rooms, this is definitely the place to unwind and absorb the river ambience - including those bizarre, hourly chimes. Massages are available in a glass-walled room, more expensive than at the roadside stalls at 400 baht an hour ($12.80) but with the added benefits of crisp, clean sheets on a comfy bed and grandstand views of the river.
And if you've exhausted the standard tourist sights, the Serene's congenial and eager-to-please staff are a font of ideas and information.
After I admire the handmade paper business cards of the hotel's general manager, for instance, she whisks me off to the factory where they were made, 15 kilometres away. Created by a local artist, Junnalick Mulberry Paper is a burgeoning business employing 40 staff and exporting beautiful, all-natural mulberry (or saa) paper products all over the world. There are more than 3000 colourful items on sale, from delicate sheets of wrapping paper, to handmade photo albums, coasters, journals and hanging lights, to upscale wallpaper with intricate lace patterning.
Everything is made on the premises and workshops are available if you'd like to try your hand at the age-old technique.
The following day we meander through the rice paddies and farms in the village hinterland to Ban Doi Sa-Ngo, an Akha hilltribe village occupying the highest point between Chiang Khong and Doi Tung. According to legend, it was here that an ancient king mistook three swimming white elephants for snakes - hence the original name of the mountain, Doi Chang Ngo (elephant-headed snake).
As well as being home to hill people going about their daily lives, the village has attracted a few escapees from the Bangkok rat race, a small artistic community revelling in the rural lifestyle, fresh air, beautiful light and cool temperatures. Sriwan Janehuttakarnakit, one of Thailand's leading contemporary artists, retired here 10 years ago to paint and continues to produce outstanding mural-sized oil paintings and intricate ceramics. She welcomes visitors to her studio and also provides art materials for the local Akha children who proudly display their works in an outdoor sala.
Across the road, Naremon Grogsamrong has created a delightful restaurant and gallery space called La Vallee, which opens by appointment for lunch only.
Being a former tour guide for French tourists, most of her guests to date are Gallic but word is spreading about her beautiful set-up in lush gardens, fine home-cooked meals and relaxed ambience.
"I moved here in 1999 with no experience," she tells me. "But over the years it's developed, with the help and encouragement of neighbours and family. I found my place, my universe."
In the 14th century, this border region was the centre of the Lanna universe, with the city of Chiang Saen an important seat of politics and religion. Today, its Buddhist heritage can be seen at two beautifully preserved temples - the still active Wat Chedi Luang, its classic bell-shaped spire (or chedi) evocatively covered in moss and wrapped in gold cloth and the Pa Sak temple, surrounded by a forest of teak trees. This is a particularly tranquil place to meditate or simply wander on a misty morning or as the sun sinks behind its central spire, intricately decorated with stucco designs and standing Buddhas.
Easily overlooked in Ban Sop Ruak is another impressive temple, Wat Phra That Phoo Khao, its origins said to predate the Lanna kingdom to the eighth century. Ascend its impressive staircase - flanked by five-headed Naga dragons - for a touch of heaven above the tourist hell, as well as great views of the river and converging countries.
After the tourist buses depart for the day, the little Golden Triangle village stills to a ghost town, with just a handful of locals drinking whisky in roadside bars. Night owls be warned - expect to be tucked in bed by 9pm. Across the river in the casinos, it's another story, with excruciatingly bad karaoke indicating someone, at least, is having a night of excess.
Party on, Laos.
The writer was a guest of the Tourist Authority of Thailand.
Trip notes
Getting there
Thai Airways flies from Sydney to Bangkok three times daily, with connections to Chiang Rai in the north of Thailand. thaiairways.com.au.
The Golden Triangle is an hour's drive from Chiang Rai.
Staying there
The Serene at Chiang Rai is beautifully located right on the Mekong River in Sop Ruak. A special package is available until June 30 (book before March 31) for 4000 baht ($128) a room, twin share, buy one night get the second night free. Includes daily breakfast, usage of Wi-Fi internet and high tea for afternoon. Upgrade to a deluxe river room for an extra 800 baht a room a night. sereneatchiangrai.com.
The Golden Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation is located at the Anantara Golden Triangle Resort. helpingelephants.org.
More information
tourismthailand.org.
Don't miss
NO VISIT to the Golden Triangle would be complete without interaction with its most endearing and impressive icon: the elephant.
This region is the pachyderm's natural environment and there is arguably no better sanctuary in Thailand than the Golden Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation camp (pictured) at the Anantara Golden Triangle Resort. This holistic camp is home to about 30 elephants and their mahout (owner/keeper) families, most of whom once eked a living begging on city streets.
Here, not only do the elephants enjoy first-class care but their owners earn an honest living, with the men involved in activities such as mahout training and their wives hand-crafting silk products.
Although the GTAEF's program is tailored to Anantara guests, visitors are also welcome to join in by appointment; or simply drop by and enjoy the immense pleasure of seeing happy, relaxed animals going about their daily routine.
There's nothing quite like watching baby elephants frolicking in the mud like rambunctious toddlers — pure gold.
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