By Stephen Phelan
Estancio Rincon.Credit: Agust?n Ayuso
ESTANCIA RINCON
PENINSULA VALDES, ARGENTINA
A working sheep ranch with a sideline as a guest lodge, so close to the coast of Patagonia that seaward-facing rooms provide a view of orcas attacking sea-lions just offshore in the South Atlantic. The abundance of migrating marine life in these waters has made the region a growing centre for eco-tourism - owners Maria Olazabal and her husband Augustin Ayusa (both fifth-generation sheep farmers on this thin peninsula) are actively involved in scientific studies of the elephant seals who rest, mate and give birth on their nearby private beach. "We work hard, and we live quietly," Augustin told me over lamb stew.
From $280 a night (half board). See rinconchico.com.ar.
EOLO LODGE
LA ANITA VALLEY, ARGENTINA
The word "lodge" can be broadly defined to mean anything from basic shelter to deluxe accommodation such as this - a beautifully designed and generously catered country estate on a sprawl of wild private land, nestled between the slopes of Mount Frias and the cold blue water of Lago Argentino. Those surroundings are spectacular, allowing for short trips out to a flamingo lagoon or a longer excursion to the Perito Moreno Glacier. But I spent my stay secretly delighted that the weather outside was so hostile, allowing me to seal myself inside with the hermetic comforts of the bar, spa, and especially the library.
From $725 a night See eolo.com.ar.
DEL NOMADE ECO-LODGE
PUERTO PIRAMIDES, ARGENTINA
Lamenting Argentina's general lack of eco-consciousness, and encouraged by a steady influx of whale watchers and nature-lovers to the eastern shores of Patagonia, Alejandro Avampini founded the area's first eco-lodge in the tiny seafront town of Puerto Piramides - though the super-friendly Laura and Lala actually run the place. They will admit to a tough process of "trial and error" while installing solar panels and recycled water systems with limited expertise and resources. But the finished product now provides comfortable, affordable and ethical accommodation on the thin line where the desert meets the ocean.
(The lodge is closed for winter from mid-April to mid-August.)
From $230 a single/double room. See ecohosteria.com.ar.
SAN HUBERTO LODGE
MALLEO RIVER, ARGENTINA
Built as a hunting lodge by the resident Olsen family, this small property (limited to 16 guests on an all-inclusive basis) has since become known as one of the best places to fish in Patagonia, if not the world. Located on the Rio Malleo, which runs through canyon rapids to still and shallow pools within the Olsens' property lines, the place is a dream for trout fishermen and -women, but no less so for those who would rather just sit beneath the willows, looking out across the river to the Lanin volcano. For trout season - November to March - book well in advance.
From $280 a person, all inclusive. See olsenfamily.com.ar.
REMOTA
PUERTO NATALES, CHILE
At the other side of the Andes, in the far south of Chilean Patagonia, the Remota offers more highly developed hotel-style accommodation, in an architectural marvel of a structure that looks other-worldly against the vast empty landscape, but also somehow part of it. The complex was designed in wood and organic curves by native "green" architect German del Sol to emphasise the surrounding beauty, while the interior offers the spa treatments, excellent Chilean wines, pretty spectacular fresh seafood, and other pleasures that seem heightened by the world outside. The contrast of natural wildness and high-spec comfort makes the place feel vaguely science-fictional.
From $330 a person (B&B). See remotahotel.com.
HACIENDA TRES LAGOS
AISEN, CHILE
Like a well-tended village of bungalows and upscale cabins, nestled between the eponymous "three lakes", this might be the best-situated of Patagonian Lodges in terms of sights and activities - besides the lakes themselves, there are forests, waterfalls, caves and glaciers within trekking, riding or kayaking distance. There's a strong sense of eco-consciousness to all of this, as the lodge is heavily invested in landscape-preservation. It can also be as decadent as you like. I'm a whisky snob and I drink it neat but I made an exception to take a little "millennium ice" in my glass of Caol Ila on Lake Leones.
From $145 a person (based on two sharing, low season). See haciendatreslagos.com.
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