Vegetable vol-au-vent from Atlantide.Credit: Brian Johnston
ATLANTIDE, SILVER MUSE
No surprise that the signature restaurant on Silversea's newest ship, which wants to set a new bar in luxury cruising, is a standout. There's no extra specialty restaurant charge, and you can't fault the quality of the produce, whether you're after prime American strip steak, Argentine grass-fed beef or the blushing Baltic salmon. Wander from a starter of beef and caviar tartare with poached quail egg to lobster salad with caviar and zucchini, and a main of sea bream with grilled asparagus. The elegant grill and seafood restaurant has polished but friendly staff and also serves breakfast and lighter lunches. See silversea.com
Credit: Roy Riley
MURANO, CELEBRITY SILHOUETTE
Don't be misled by the name of this additional-cost, evening-only restaurant, which serves not Venetian but French nosh amid a decor of wood panelling, shimmering glassware and fresh flowers. It has an intimate, exclusive feel, attentive service and sommeliers who know what they're talking about. Among outstanding dishes are the porcini and morel risotto for starter, the lobster flambeed in cognac at your table, and a Grand Marnier souffle light as an angel's cloud. Those who find decisions difficult can meander through the five-course set menu with paired wines. Murano also features on Eclipse, Equinox, Solstice and Reflection. See celebritycruises.com.au
MANFREDI'S, VIKING SEA
There's no surcharge for this speciality evening restaurant and little pretension beyond the staff's tendency towards Italian greetings. The space is attractive and upmarket without being formal, and agreeably hung with black-and-white photos of Italian movie stars. It would be a mistake to fill up on the basket of excellent breads and chunks of parmesan, because courses are generous and delicious: try the lemony capellini pasta topped by zucchini-wrapped prawns followed by the excellent, ogre-sized Florentine beefsteak. Italian restaurants are a cruise-ship standard, but Manfredi's – which also features on Viking's other ocean ships – is a standout. See vikingcruises.com.au
SAVOY RESTAURANT, RIVER COUNTESS
When there's only one restaurant on board and you're eating there three times a day, it had better be good. This Uniworld ship based in Venice rises to the occasion, providing possibly the best food on any river. The Savoy starts the day with a buffet breakfast of delectable pastries, quality cheeses, cold meat and smoked fish, plus hot dishes on request. The lunch buffet is just as impressive, and four-course evening meals tempt with plenty of regional cuisine such as ossobuco, veal with truffle Piedmont style, and spaghetti with Venetian clams. See uniworldcruises.com.au
Credit: Michel Verdure
COMPASS ROSE, SEVEN SEAS MARINER
Excellent continental-oriented cuisine matched by quality salads, breads and cheese plates make this the best all-round, main-restaurant dining at sea. Expect wide choices, including nightly sample dishes from speciality restaurants Prime 7 (American grill) and Signatures (French), such as the latter's scallops with smoked bacon and savoy cabbage. The quality of the complimentary house wines is also superior to those on many cruise lines. Among memorable dishes are red snapper with roasted sweet potato, and eggplant involtini stuffed with mozzarella and smoked ham. Compass Rose is replicated on Regent's three other ships. See rssc.com.au
Credit: Francois Lefebvre
GASTRONOMIC RESTAURANT, L'AUSTRAL
Kudos to this Ponant ship's main restaurant for supplying consistently superior a la carte fare nightly; it also serves breakfast and lunch. The food is posh French without being over-the-top: expect foie gras with dried fruit condiment, veal tenderloin with forest mushrooms and delectable lobster tail with a ginger and carrot jelly. Although on the rich side, portions are modestly sized, and light options and international standards such as grilled fish or steak are always on offer. Take the chance to be adventurous: the likes of escargot ravioli and frog-leg terrine are delicious. See ponant.com
Brian Johnston has travelled as a guest of the cruise lines mentioned here.
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