Six of the best: Italian gourmet towns

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This was published 6 years ago

Six of the best: Italian gourmet towns

By Brian Johnston
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All of Italy is a top destination for lovers of gourmet holidays, but some of its smaller cities and towns provide particularly restaurant-dense, mouth-watering food scenes and rich cuisines. Here are six of the best town in Italy to whet your appetite.

BOLOGNA

Europe's oldest university city has a youthful and relaxed vibe. Its city-centre squares and street porticoes are graced with centuries of architectural styles and crammed with cafes, wine bars, restaurants and food shops that have earned the city the nickname La Grassa (the fat). Its contribution to world gastronomy is tagliatelle al ragu (or at least its debased version, spaghetti bolognese); tortellini in broth is another local treat. But you might want to deli-hop in the alleys off Piazza Maggiore rather than dine in a restaurant: nibble your way through parmesan and mortadella ham accompanied by Lambrusco wine. See bolognawelcome.com

BORGO SAN FELICE

This medieval Tuscan village in the Chianti countryside outside Siena has become a Relais & Chateaux-branded gourmet retreat that gazes over its own Sangiovese vineyards and olive groves. The village has two excellent restaurants: Osteria del Grigio for traditional, home-style Tuscan fare, and posher Poggio Rosso for contemporary Italian that makes the most of local products such as bacon, saffron, chickpeas and pecorino (the rabbit and smoked scaramorza cheese ravioli with Tuscan black truffle is glorious). You can also call in at the wine cellar for a tasting of Chianti Classico, or a tour of the estate. See relaischateaux.com

PARMA

Although small, Parma is one of Italy's wealthiest cities and sits in the middle of countryside that produces many icons of Italian cuisine, including parmesan cheese, parma ham and mouth-melting, aged culatello leg ham. The result: some of the country's best (and most fattening) food, whether in delis such as Salumeria Garibaldi, street markets (try Piazza Ghiaia) or informal restaurants, several of which line Strada Eugenio Copelli. Parma was formerly an independent duchy with impeccable connections that supplied Austrian and French influences on its pastries. It's also graced with outstanding Renaissance architecture and a rich musical heritage. See emiliaromagnaturismo.it

MODENA

This is another northern Italian duchy crammed with lovely buildings, and whose fat incomes have produced an excellent foodie scene – indeed, it currently boasts what many reckon to be the world's best restaurant, Osteria Francescana. Even better, Modena has yet to be hit by the tourist tsunami that prevents normal local life in many Italian cities. Plunder the covered market for platters of cured meats and cheese, hop from one gelataria to another, and try the typical Modena fried-cod nibble, bocconcini di baccala. Then head out into the surrounds for a balsamic vinegar tasting at cellar doors. See emiliaromagnaturismo.it

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LUCCA

Although famed for its musical history – among other things, as the birthplace of Puccini – Lucca is one of few Tuscan towns off mainstream tour-group routes and offering local food in old-fashioned eateries that still dish up regional classics such as spelt soup, rabbit and roast pork. Shops tempt with wines, chocolates and pastries. Walk atop Lucca's Renaissance-era fortified walls and gaze over terracotta roofs and defensive towers towards the Apuan Alps. Stay overnight so you can join locals for their ritual passegiata (evening stroll) along elegant Via Fillungo, followed by wine and coffee-sipping in the town's genteel squares. See turismo.lucca.it

ORVIETO

Abandon your car and ascend to Orvieto's old town, whose houses and towers huddle around a striking, striped cathedral on an outcrop of rock. This is a great town for food shopping, especially along Via del Duomo and Corso Cavour. Orvieto is one of the leaders in Italy's slow food movement, so take the chance to plunder shops for porchetta ham, salami and local cheese, or dine on traditional pasta dishes such as stringozzi in spicy tomato sauce and pappardelle with rabbit. The surrounding Umbrian region is noted for rustic cuisine that uses seasonal produce such as truffles, chestnuts, asparagus and mushrooms. See umbriatourism.it

Brian Johnston was a guest of the Italian State Tourist Board, Emilia-Romagna Tourism, Discover Tuscany, Relais & Chateaux and Insight Vacations.

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