Soul food catches on

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This was published 12 years ago

Soul food catches on

Go fish ... six ponds are stocked with trout at Tuki Retreat.

Go fish ... six ponds are stocked with trout at Tuki Retreat.

Mary O'Brien escapes the city and discovers trout fishing and rustic fare on offer at Tuki Retreat.

Call me a wuss but, as I stand rod in hand peering into the dark, murky water, I have mixed feelings. Part of me, a tiny part, wants to catch the fish that's sending up little bubbles from under the surface. But mostly, if I'm honest, I don't want to haul in anything, especially not a live trout. I'm happy to eat it but I don't really want to be responsible for taking it out of its watery home.

Mind you, it's not a bad spot for a trout to grow up. I've brought the family to Tuki Retreat, a trout farm with restaurant and holiday cottages deep in the Loddon-Campaspe valley in Central Victoria. It's an ideal place to escape our busy city lifestyle and tech-driven teen obsessions.

After we leave Smeaton, the countryside looks deserted - vast stretches of bleached, rocky land with no houses in sight. We find the aptly named Stoney Rises Road and head up the winding two-kilometre driveway, knowing that whatever lies ahead, the sound of traffic won't be a worry.

There's plenty of activity with day-trippers arriving to fish and other guests to stay. Our genial host Robert Jones, a large, powerful man with a wide-brimmed hat, hops on to a pushbike and beckons us to follow in our car, gliding past stone walls, big hedges, wandering chickens, ponies and horses in search of our cottage.

Jones is immensely proud of the cottages, which he built by hand with his father, Don, from rocks cleared from the farm. The first cottage was finished in 1993. Jones had a vision - to make the farm viable by sharing his little patch of heaven with others.

He was born on Tuki, the farm that his father bought in the 1940s. The Joneses are a family of innovators, making the most of difficult terrain that fate has tied them to for three generations.

Don had the idea to open the farm as a trout fishing venue in 1985. He was a man who was always trying new things, including building up what was then the largest commercial flock of Tukidale sheep, which gave their name to the farm. Robert's son, Alistair, also works at Tuki.

The Joneses embraced recycling, sustainability and local produce before these terms were popular. The restaurant is in a rustic stone building that was once a stable, the miner's cottage was the old family home and the guest cottages are an amalgam of rocks and timber from the paddocks.

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While fishing is a big attraction, with men bonding over rods and families rediscovering the patience of wily old hunters, food is what brings many locals and city folk to Stoney Rises. Dishes, simple and wholesome, cooked by Jones and his wife Jan, are made from the finest, freshest produce. The trout is caught daily and pate and smoked trout are made on site. The lamb comes from sheep raised on the farm, feeding on native pastures. Jones makes his own lamb sausages and smokes his trout and sausages using a secret recipe in his smokehouse over native woods.

Though it's a rustic location, Tuki has earned a place in The Age Good Food Guide. The Joneses open the restaurant every day of the year (except Christmas Day) and will also serve food to cottage guests in the evening if requested. The secret to their success on the food front is simplicity and good local produce. During our visit two young men land their plane on the grass airstrip and head to the outdoor deck overlooking the Loddon-Campaspe valley to enjoy a local wine and a trout platter.

Jones cooks as well as he farms and later that night we enjoy baked trout, lamb tenderloins seared on the barbecue followed by slow-roasted lamb, dripping with flavour. In winter, he cooks indoors on a large circular handmade fireplace.

There are six ponds full of trout, which are grown in waters that come from a 250-metre deep spring. Those who want to fish can choose an "easy" pond, well stocked with trout; the more sporting types can try their skills at the more difficult ponds. Even after watching Jones add some sizeable fish to our little pond - to increase our odds I suppose - we (luckily) fail to get a bite.

Tuki is a rustic retreat that is ageing gracefully, softened by simple country comforts and hospitable hosts. Day trippers can fish or have their catch cleaned (and cooked) or just drop in for lunch.

Merely sitting on the verandah of the cottage, with a good book and a glass of wine, watching the dark rain clouds and listening to the silence of the place, is good for the soul.

As part of the Harvest Week Festival celebrating Daylesford-Macedon Produce on April 27 to May 6 a Walking Tour and Slow Dinner at Tuki is on April 28. See dmproduce.com.au/harvest-week-festival.

FAST FACTS

Getting there

Tuki Retreat and trout farm is at 60 Stoney Rises Road, Smeaton. Phone 5345 6233, see tuki.com.au. Smeaton is about 145 kilometres from Melbourne and about 40 kilometres from Ballarat. There is a grass airfield for those who want to fly in.

While you're there

A family day ticket costs $30, including rods, bait and a net. Trout cleaned and packaged to take away is $15.50 a kilogram.

Staying there

Cottages cost from $380 to $560 a couple for a two-night weekend. Breakfast is supplied.

Nearby attractions Daylesford, Creswick and Clunes are about 20 kilometres away.

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