This was published 7 years ago
Suiran Hotel, Arashiyama: Explore one of the most beautiful parts of Kyoto
By Craig Platt
The place
Suiran Hotel, Arashiyama, Kyoto
The location
Hotel Suiran is on the banks of the Oi River and at the foot of Mount Arashi.
One of the most beautiful parts of Japan's famous city, Arashiyama is a district to the west of central Kyoto, just 15 minutes away by train. Located on the banks of the Oi River and at the foot of Mount Arashi, the area is hugely popular with tourists, who flock to Arashiyama for the scenery, the historic temples and the famous bamboo forest.
The space
The Suiran is located right on the bank of the river, looking out to the mountain and, to the south, the historic bridge. The hotel, opened in 2015, has 39 rooms in five sizes. Many of the top-tier rooms feature their own private onsen, but for those that don't there is a shared onsen that can be booked for private use. The restaurant offers dinner and breakfast while a cafe is open for lunch. Both are open to the public.
The history of the site is fascinating. Originally the location of emperor Godaigo's (who reigned from 1318 to 1339) summer palace, the land later became part of a local temple before being privatised and sold in the mid-1800s. It was then purchased by Shozo Kawasaki (yes, the founder of the motorcycle and heavy industry company) who built his summer home here. That building still stands today and houses the hotel restaurant.
The room
My superior room offers a generous amount of space, a king-size bed, chaise lounge, armchair and table. There's a TV and cabinet featuring tea and coffee with mini bar. This room is carpeted but some other rooms offer more traditional Japanese style, with tatami mats covering the floors.
Like so many modern hotels, the bathroom is open to the rest of the room but in this case sliding dividers can separate it for privacy. There is a large shower and separate bath. The toiletries come from Laboratoire Remede. The toilet is also in a separate room of its own (and, as in most Japanese hotels, it's technologically advanced).
There's a small balcony. We have both fluffy bath robes and colourful kimonos to choose from. The turndown service includes laying out the kimonos on the bed along with a sweet biscuit and good night note.
The food
The hotel restaurant, in its historic surrounds, offers next-level fine dining. I enjoy the degustation menu, which comes with a total of 12 dishes. These are Japanese-inspired but each has its own creative twist, such as the sea urchin, which comes with ginkgo and chestnut and is suspended in a jelly ball.
Other dishes include sea bream in wasabi, olive oil and soy sauce, roasted butterfish and seaweed sorbet with caviar. Even the simple ninth dish of "simmered turnip", which I hadn't expected much from, turns out to be delicious.
Stepping out
The scenic location of the hotel allows you to enjoy the views of the mountain and river from the pretty garden at the front of the property. I'm here in autumn and many of the trees have turned a vivid red and gold.
Many of Arashiyama's highlights are within a short walk of the hotel. Beautiful views down the river can be had from the top of the hill in Arashiyama Park, right next to the hotel.
The bamboo forest, with its towering bamboo trees, is one of Kyoto's major attractions. Staying at the hotel gives you the opportunity to visit the area early before the hordes of day trippers arrive. The UNESCO World Heritage-listed Tenryuji Temple is a highlight, and there are several other temples nearby, Jojakkoji is one of the smaller ones, but worth visiting for its pretty gardens and views from the mountain back to the city.
The verdict
This is one of the most beautiful parts of one of Japan's most beautiful cities. Despite being just a short trip from the centre of the city, Suiran feels like a step back in time.
The essentials
Rooms at the Suiran Hotel start from ¥70,000 a night, including a complimentary transfer to or from the hotel. See www.suirankyoto.com/en
High point
It's tempting to say the food, but really the location is what makes this place special.
Low point
While Arashiyama can heave with tourists in peak season and on weekends, it gets very quiet in the evenings, limiting options for dining and drinks outside the hotel.
Craig Platt stayed as guest of the Suiran Hotel.
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