Swimming in New Zealand's glacial Milford Sound

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This was published 6 years ago

Swimming in New Zealand's glacial Milford Sound

By Elspeth Callender
Mitre Peak at Milford sound.

Mitre Peak at Milford sound.Credit: Shutterstock

"You actually look like you're enjoying yourself," someone says from the boat as I tread cold brackish water on a late-autumn evening. The sun has long set behind the natural walls of this misnamed fiord and the only light now is from the moon and the fluoro tubes over the Mariner's open-air walkways.

But I'm not just enjoying myself – I'm floating in a national park, a marine reserve and a World Heritage site.

This fortnight I'm trying something completely inside the box: coach touring the South Island of New Zealand. Overnighting on Milford Sound/Piopiotahi aboard a 700-tonne trading scow replica happens to be part of that package.

Sea kayaking on Milford Sound.

Sea kayaking on Milford Sound.Credit: Shutterstock

Formed by the legendary axe of the Maori god Tu-te-raki-whanoa, who improved his aim and game as he hacked north from the south-western corner of Aotearoa, this 16-kilometre-long glacially shaped inlet of the Tasman Sea is 400 metres deep in parts. Cliff faces rise more than 1200 metres above its tidal waterline.

From Te Anau that afternoon we drove in against the traffic and, once on board the Mariner, motored the opposite direction to all the other vessels as they returned their day-trippers to dock. Before mooring in Harrisons Cove, the Mariner nosed under the spray of a long-drop waterfall while a calm voice over the loudspeaker encouraged everyone out on the bow to forget their cameras and drink it in.

The Mariner sleeps 60 and there are 41 of us travelling with Scenic, five fresh guest faces and 10 crew including a skipper, chef, bartender and specialist nature guide. A tender boatful is dispatched while another nine of us kayak the sheltered cove of rainforest-backed beach and rocky river mouth and peak views. As we return to the mothership on dusk I dip my hand in the water to find it isn't nearly as chilly as I expected.

Seal life in Milford Sound

Seal life in Milford Sound

Two other kayakers decide to swim too and skipper Dean Gibb, who has an open wheelhouse and a dry sense of humour, sets up a stepladder. But I plunge from the lowest shelf of the stern because, for me, this isn't about making a statement – it's about immersion. First in the famous fiord then under a hot shower in my cabin until my core rewarms.

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We slide into booths in the dining saloon for a carvery buffet. Apart from the licensed bar, this interior space and the evening's atmosphere, our isolated location and the crew's energy all give it a school camp feel. There's a sense of permissiveness and a celebration of simple pleasures aboard the Mariner, though nothing feels like overkill. Except for the desserts table, which is epic.

After dinner Skipper Dean projects images on the wall of Piopiotahi – its wildlife, its rainbows, the effects of a heavy downpour when far more waterfall than rock is visible here at Harrisons. Before bed I stargaze from the top deck then go down to see a seal lolling on what was my safety-step launch pad.

Passengers on the Mariner drink in one of Milford Sound's spectacular waterfalls.

Passengers on the Mariner drink in one of Milford Sound's spectacular waterfalls.

The calm dry weather holds overnight and we motor out on sunrise to meet the unobstructed sea air of the Tasman. On our way back towards the dock the Mariner sneaks under another waterfall then, once our speed is up again, two bottlenose dolphins flip and play on the bow waves. Back home, regaling the family with unexpected tales from the tour, someone says "what do you mean you swam in Milford Sound – you can do that?"

TRIP NOTES

MORE

Double cabin on the Mariner.

Double cabin on the Mariner.

traveller.com.au/new-zealand

scenic.com.au

FLY

Air New Zealand operates daily direct flights from Sydney and Melbourne to Christchurch. See airnewzealand.com.au

TOUR

Scenic's Southern Spectacular 12-day round trip from Christchurch shows off South Island urban, rural and natural sights. See scenic.com.au

Elspeth Callender travelled as a guest of Scenic.

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