Chedi Hotel Muscat review: Understated luxury in Oman

THE LOCATION

The resort hugs a stretch of coastline on the Gulf of Oman in the city's upmarket Al Khuwair neighbourhood. It is central in the sense that it lies between the city centre to the east and the airport to the west; however, Muscat's elongated bulk – caught between mountains and ocean – means that attractions are scattered and a car or taxi is essential for outings.

THE SPACE

Built as Oman's first modern hotel in 2003, The Chedi recently celebrated its 15th birthday. It sprawls across 8.5 hectares of immaculately tended gardens, bucking the Arabian penchant for opulence (heavy drapes, chandeliers) with clean lines, symmetry and Asian composure. A limited colour palette induces a sense of calm: though Muscat's steamy weather would sustain flaming bougainvillea and other bright tropical plants, the gardens are planted in cooling shades of green and white. Arising from this palm-filled oasis are the snow-white, Moorish-style buildings containing various wings and freestanding villas (158 rooms in all), a fitness centre and spa and restaurants and common areas. The three pools – one of which is located beside the private beach – are heated in winter and chilled in summer to a consistent 27 degrees. Water features based on Oman's traditional aflaj​ irrigation system contribute to the prevailing sense of Zen.

THE ROOM

I'm staying in one of 38 Chedi club suite villas. Some of them are grouped condo-style, but mine is freestanding and has a beautiful domed ceiling in its king-size bedroom. There's also a lounge, an outdoor patio and a capacious bathroom-for-two anchored by a sunken terrazzo bathtub. The resort's minimalist tone is continued indoors through the use of neutral colours and natural materials such as wood and stone. As a club suite guest I'm able to make use of a long list of benefits including complimentary laundry service, daily afternoon tea and evening cocktails in the club lounge and a mini bar which extends to the tray of crystal decanters filled with gin, vodka and whisky.

THE FOOD

Executive Chef Dorin Schuster presides over six restaurants and two lounges serving a variety of popular cuisines. There's seafood at the Beach Restaurant overlooking the Gulf of Oman and Japanese and Middle Eastern fare at the Long Pool Cabana. The Arabian Courtyard serves an excellent selection of Arabic mezze, shawarma and kebabs, while the adjacent Shisha Lounge revs up the Omani eating experience with decor to match. The fine dining hub is the Restaurant, where four open kitchens serve Indian, Western, Asian and Middle Eastern fare. For a unique – and thoroughly local – dessert, try the Omani Nest, a sugared dome filled with jelly, ganache and sorbet flavoured with Oman's precious export, frankincense.